Beyond the Sky and the Earth

1. Leaving the Known for the Unknown

I wanted to throw myself into an experience that was too big for me and learn in a way that cost me something.

Seeking something more. Feeling her life in Toronto was "small" and her academic future too "rigidly fixed," the author, Jamie Zeppa, sought a transformative experience beyond professional considerations. Despite having no teaching or overseas experience, she applied for a teaching position in the remote Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan, drawn by evocative photographs and a sense of longing for the "real world."

Facing apprehension. Her decision met with strong opposition, particularly from her protective grandfather, who saw the rest of the world as a dangerous "Over There" and feared for her safety and future. Jamie herself felt a strange mix of determination and fear, like "standing at the edge of a cliff," questioning if she had what it took to venture alone into the unknown.

Commitment despite doubts. Despite the anxieties, the lack of experience, and the initial rejection for the college post (leading to a more remote junior high assignment), Jamie remained resolute. The desire for a profound, challenging experience outweighed the comfort and predictability of her planned life, pushing her to embrace the uncertainty of a distant posting.

2. Culture Shock and Gradual Adaptation

I have crossed a threshold of exhaustion and strangeness and am suspended in a new inner place.

Initial disorientation. Upon arrival, the stark reality of her remote posting in Pema Gatshel hit hard. Basic living conditions, lack of amenities like electricity and running water, and communication barriers led to intense culture shock, manifesting as anxiety, restless sleep, and a feeling of unreality. Simple tasks became overwhelming challenges.

Overcoming helplessness. Faced with leaking roofs, lack of water, and a classroom without basic supplies or a clear syllabus, Jamie initially felt paralyzed and wanted to go home. However, small acts of kindness from students and neighbors, like bringing food or helping with chores, began to chip away at her isolation and helplessness.

Finding footing. Encouraged by a visit to a fellow teacher and the realization that "anyone can live anywhere," Jamie started to adapt. She learned to manage her environment, accept help, and find humor in the daily struggles. The initial feeling of being an "aberration" slowly gave way to a sense of managing and belonging.

3. Finding Beauty Amidst Hardship

The human habitations nestle into the landscape; nothing is cut or cleared beyond what is required.

Immersive landscape. Bhutan's mountainous terrain, initially a source of fear and disorientation during the arduous journey, gradually became a source of wonder and peace. The dramatic peaks, lush valleys, and ever-changing scenery offered a constant visual spectacle, fostering a deep connection to the natural world.

Simplicity and contentment. The traditional villages and farmhouses, built from local materials and integrated into the landscape, embodied a sense of contentment and sufficiency. This contrasted sharply with the perceived excess and waste of her life back home, highlighting the beauty and meaning found in living simply and in harmony with the environment.

Moments of peace. Despite the challenges of daily life, there were moments of profound peace and beauty – sitting by a stream, watching clouds move over mountains, or experiencing the quiet dignity of a temple. These experiences offered respite from internal struggles and fostered a growing appreciation for the unique qualities of Bhutanese life.

4. Unexpected Teachers and Profound Lessons

My kids think I’m an idiot, one of the teachers addresses me as “your ladyship,” I have fifty-three flea bites, and my blackboard doesn’t work.

Learning from students. Jamie's students, particularly those in her Class II C, became her most important teachers. Their patience, resilience, and willingness to help her navigate daily life and cultural nuances taught her practical skills and offered invaluable insights into Bhutanese culture and values.

• Taught her to cook rice and use a kerosene stove.
• Explained local customs and beliefs.
• Shared their perspectives on life and the world.
• Showed her unconditional kindness and acceptance.

Humility and perspective. The students' simple observations and questions often highlighted Jamie's own ignorance and assumptions, forcing her to confront her preconceived notions about wealth, necessity, and knowledge. This humbling experience shifted her perspective on what truly matters and what constitutes "knowing."

Reciprocity in learning. While Jamie was there to teach English, math, and science, the exchange became reciprocal. The students taught her about their world, their language, and themselves, demonstrating that learning is a two-way street that transcends formal education and cultural differences.

5. Beyond the Surface: Cultural Complexities

Sharchhop, on the other hand, reveals a culture of material economy but abundant, intricate familial ties and social relations.

Language as a window. Learning the local languages, particularly Sharchhop, revealed a different way of seeing the world. The vocabulary reflected cultural priorities, with numerous terms for family relationships but fewer for material possessions, highlighting the importance of social connections over material wealth.

Hidden layers. Beneath the apparent simplicity and harmony, Jamie began to perceive complexities and contradictions. The concept of privacy differed greatly, with community knowledge prioritized over individual anonymity. Traditional beliefs coexisted with modern aspirations, creating a blend that was often difficult for an outsider to fully grasp.

Differing values. Interactions with both villagers and college students exposed differing values regarding conformity, individualism, and expression. While community cohesion and respect for tradition were paramount, there were also undercurrents of dissent and a desire for change, particularly among the younger generation exposed to outside ideas.

6. The Weight of Tradition and Authority

I am afraid of making a mistake, saying the wrong thing, giving offense.

Navigating social norms. Bhutanese society is deeply hierarchical, with strong emphasis on respect for authority and elders, embodied in practices like driglam namzha. Jamie initially struggled to navigate these unspoken rules, fearing she would inadvertently cause offense or appear disrespectful.

The stick and discipline. The widespread use of corporal punishment in schools, justified by some as a traditional method necessary for discipline and ego-breaking, deeply troubled Jamie. This practice clashed with her Western educational values and forced her to question the limits of cultural relativism and her role as an outsider.

Questioning authority. The Dzongda's alleged statement that the "question why should not be allowed" highlighted a cultural emphasis on obedience and acceptance over critical inquiry. This presented a challenge to Jamie's teaching philosophy, which encouraged questioning and independent thought, revealing a fundamental difference in educational approaches.

7. Emerging Tensions and Political Realities

This is how the students speak of it. This situation, they say. The situation is serious.

Beneath the surface calm. Despite the outward appearance of peace and harmony, Jamie gradually became aware of underlying political tensions, particularly between the northern Drukpa majority and the southern Nepali minority. Whispers and rumors hinted at dissatisfaction and conflict.

Cultural identity and law. Government efforts to strengthen national identity through laws like mandatory national dress became a point of contention. While framed as necessary for survival, these laws were perceived by some, particularly southern students, as an imposition on their own cultural identity and rights.

Escalating conflict. The "Situation" escalated with student protests, arrests, and eventually violence, including the horrific discovery of severed heads. This revealed a darker reality beneath the "Last Shangri-La" image, forcing Jamie to confront the fact that Bhutan, like any country, faced serious internal problems and conflicts.

8. Mindfulness and the Buddhist Path

Mindfulness is the abode of eternal life, thoughtlessness the abode of death.

Seeking inner peace. Faced with the chaos of culture shock and personal anxieties, Jamie found solace and guidance in Buddhist teachings. She explored concepts like suffering, non-attachment, and the Noble Eightfold Path, seeking a way to quiet her restless mind and find inner stability.

Practice and understanding. Reading about Buddhism was one thing, but experiencing it through rituals, meditation, and daily life in Bhutan deepened her understanding. The emphasis on personal responsibility, self-awareness, and compassion resonated deeply, offering practical tools for navigating life's challenges.

Commitment to the path. A powerful meditative experience, coupled with the guidance of a local lama, led Jamie to take refuge vows, formally committing to the Buddhist path. This marked a significant personal transformation, shifting her focus from external desires to internal cultivation and mindfulness.

9. Transformation and the Shifting Sense of Home

Entering takes longer. You cross over slowly, in bits and pieces.

A new sense of belonging. Over time, Bhutan ceased to be just a place she was visiting and began to feel like home. The initial strangeness faded, replaced by familiarity, connection with people, and a deep love for the landscape and the rhythm of life. This sense of belonging was earned through adaptation and immersion.

Internal change. The experience in Bhutan fundamentally changed Jamie's perspective and values. She found meaning in simplicity, appreciated interdependence, and questioned the consumerism and individualism of her Western upbringing. This internal shift made the idea of returning to her old life increasingly difficult.

Home becomes fluid. The concept of "home" became less about a physical location and more about a feeling of belonging and alignment with one's values. As Bhutan felt more like home, her former life in Canada began to seem distant and unfamiliar, creating a dilemma about where she truly belonged.

10. The Challenge of Return

Everything about my relationship with Robert, in fact everything about the life I left behind, seems small and narrow in comparison with where I am now.

Disorientation upon return. Returning to Canada for the winter break after a year in Bhutan was jarring. The speed, consumerism, and focus on material possessions felt overwhelming and unreal compared to the simplicity she had grown accustomed to. She felt like an outsider in her own culture.

Difficulty reconnecting. Reconnecting with friends and family proved challenging. Her experiences and changed perspective were difficult to articulate or were met with misunderstanding and dismissal. Relationships, like the one with Robert, struggled to bridge the gap created by her transformation.

Questioning former life. The values and priorities of her life in Canada, once taken for granted, now seemed questionable and unsatisfying. The contrast highlighted what she felt was missing – a sense of community, connection to nature, and a slower, more meaningful pace of life – making the prospect of returning permanently daunting.

Last updated: June 10, 2025