Halt Station India

1. Bombay's Railways: Birthplace of Asian Rail and a Crucible of Change

Not only did the first train in India run from Bombay to Thana in April 1853, but also twenty-nine years earlier the first stationary steam engine operated in Bombay.

Dual claims to fame. Bombay holds the unique distinction of being the birthplace of both the first railway and the first stationary steam engine in Asia, marking it as a pivotal location in the history of industrialization in the East. The first train journey from Bombay to Thana in 1853 was more than just a transportation milestone; it was the dawn of a new era, connecting disparate cultures and economies.

Arteries of lifeblood. The railways of Bombay and Calcutta were the arteries through which their lifeblood flowed, facilitating trade, communication, and the movement of people, transforming these cities into major hubs of British India. The meticulous research and scholarship of Rajendra B. Aklekar throws new light on the way those railways were built—the laying of the lines, why they were laid where they were laid, how the demands on them changed and how they met those demands.

Beyond transportation. The railways were not merely about transporting goods and people; they were agents of social, economic, and technological change, introducing new ideas, technologies, and ways of life to the Indian subcontinent. The railways merged this land of manifold cultures into a national entity, contributing to India’s freedom struggle, the controversies associated with their growth, and the simple pleasures linked to their rhythmic chug-chugging.

2. Berkley's Vision: Engineering Marvels Amidst Cultural Clashes

This monument is erected by the engineers and contractors of the Great Indian Peninsular Railway in token of their admiration of the distinguished professional career of their chief engineer James John Berkley.

Pioneering engineer. James John Berkley, the chief resident engineer of the GIPR, faced the daunting task of constructing India's first railway line across unfamiliar and challenging terrain, leaving a lasting legacy despite the primitive technology and cultural barriers of the time. His work on the Lonavala-Khandala and Kasara Ghats (Bhor and Thal) in the Sahyadri mountain ranges was particularly challenging.

Cultural clashes. The construction process was fraught with cultural clashes, as British engineers struggled to adapt to local customs, labor practices, and religious beliefs, highlighting the complexities of implementing industrial projects in a diverse and traditional society. Henry Fowler lamented the fact that the workers’ groups were divided along caste demarcations, and that they refused to work alongside one another.

Enduring legacy. Despite the challenges and the eventual deterioration of some of the original structures, Berkley's vision laid the foundation for a vast railway network that would transform India, with his contributions still remembered through monuments and place names. Today, a small railway colony in his name exists at Byculla along the Central Railway line and his forgotten bust on the walls of Bombay’s Victoria Terminus looks over a municipal bus depot.

3. Dalhousie's Blueprint: Railways as Engines of Empire and Progress

Thus in less than one day, the government made communications, which before the telegraph was, would have occupied a whole month—what a political reinforcement is this!

Strategic vision. Lord Dalhousie, India's youngest governor general, recognized the strategic importance of railways for military, trade, and social control, championing their construction alongside the postal system and the electric telegraph as engines of social change. He pushed for trains, and wrote detailed railway minutes to strategically connect the dots on the empire.

Experimental lines. Dalhousie charted out two experimental lines—one from Bombay and the other from Howrah—and sought their construction. The minutes became the blueprint of the Indian railways, a central document in the history of the Indian rail network.

Transformative impact. Dalhousie's vision transformed India's communication and transportation landscape, reducing travel times, facilitating trade, and strengthening British control over the vast Indian empire, leaving a lasting impact on the nation's development. The migration of newer technologies from England was slowly set to change the face of India and other English colonies.

4. The Cotton Connection: Railways Fueling Industrial Ambitions

I believe that if Indian cotton is sent home clean, there will be an increased demand for it.

Economic imperative. The primary impetus behind the construction of the first railway line was to facilitate the swift and efficient transport of raw cotton from India's interior to the port of Bombay, fueling the British textile industry and reducing reliance on American cotton. A railway network would also help the British fortify their position in India.

Trade and dominance. The railways were seen as a means to enhance British economic dominance, ensuring a steady supply of raw materials and opening up new markets for British goods, solidifying their control over the Indian economy. A promotional pamphlet entitled ‘Railways for Bombay’, published in Bombay in 1849, decided to address this issue.

Beyond cotton. The railways also facilitated the export of other goods, including hide and leather, oil, spices, salts and fruits, wool, opium, dyes, sugar, precious stones, tea, grains, cashmere shawls, beads, metals—the list is endless. And trade was pursued not just with England, but also with China, parts of Africa, Singapore, France, Mauritius, Java, Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) and North America—all from the port of Bombay.

5. From Fire Chariots to Iron Demons: Overcoming Superstition and Resistance

The steam engine was overturning prejudices, uprooting habits and changing customs.

Cultural shock. The introduction of steam locomotives sparked a wave of superstition, fear, and resistance among the local population, who viewed the "fire chariots" as evil forces or elaborate hoaxes, highlighting the cultural divide between the British and the Indians. Some locals believed that an evil force was powering the engine.

Erosion of taboos. The railways also challenged existing social hierarchies and taboos, as people from different castes and religions were forced to share the same carriages, leading to resentment and calls for segregation. The author, K.R. Vaidyanathan describes the unfavourable response of a ‘high-caste Hindu’ in 1874, when he learnt that ‘the sweepers, the chamars and the like classes of people [were] in the same carriage along with Hindustanis of the higher order.’

Acceptance and transformation. Over time, as the benefits of easy, clean, and swift transport became obvious, both rumors and objections vanished, with the railways eventually gaining widespread acceptance and transforming Indian society, economy, and culture. What started as a vehicle to ferry cotton and goods, soon became a passenger service, and an extremely lucrative one.

6. Victoria Terminus: From Gallows to Grandeur, a Symbol of Transformation

[The railway is] a triumph, to which, in comparison, all our victories in the East seem tame and commonplace.

From execution site to architectural marvel. The site of the magnificent Victoria Terminus, now Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, once served as a public gallows, symbolizing the stark contrast between British justice and the grandeur of the railway era. The spot where terrorists stood at Victoria Terminus, was once a public gallows where criminals were executed.

Symbol of British power. The construction of Victoria Terminus was intended to showcase the power and achievement of the British regime, with its Victorian Gothic Revival architecture and intricate Indian decorative elements, becoming a symbol of engineering prowess and imperial dominance. The stately building of Victoria Terminus welcomes you with two stone sculptures of a lion and a tiger at the main entrance.

Enduring legacy. Despite the name changes and the passage of time, Victoria Terminus remains a vital transportation hub and a UNESCO World Heritage site, a testament to the enduring legacy of the Indian railways and their transformative impact on Bombay. Today it is the administrative headquarters of the Central Railway, and is listed as house number 125 in an oval-shaped small metal strip on Dr D.N. Road in Bombay.

7. Tracing the Line: Relics, Stories, and the Enduring Legacy of the GIPR

The railways’ engineers, who planned and laid down the lines, were in fact Bombay’s engineers—for, townships grew around these lines and morphed into the booming city of Bombay.

Footprints of the past. Despite the challenges of time and modernization, faint but firm footprints of the original GIPR line can still be found, scattered like pieces of a gigantic jigsaw puzzle, offering glimpses into the network's precise history. Few know that that trains on India’s oldest rail line—more popularly known as Bombay’s local trains—pass through forgotten ruins that are centuries old—forts, religious places and battle grounds.

Forgotten narratives. The lines pass through a city that was once a cluster of seven mosquito-ridden islands with shallow walkways, revealing narratives of love and loss, tragedy and ambition, birth and death, which can be traced through forgotten plaques, bridges, and station alleyways. The railways’ engineers, who planned and laid down the lines, were in fact Bombay’s engineers—for, townships grew around these lines and morphed into the booming city of Bombay.

Enduring legacy. The careful study of these relics, station locations, and social contexts tells a fascinating tale of how the railway network grew, offering a glimpse into an era when trains were a novelty and the future of transportation. Every time you go back to them, something new emerges, to take you back to an era when the railways were a novelty and trains were the future.

8. Harbour Line's Tale: Electrification, Expansion, and a Sea-Spanning Journey

The electric railway is now switching to an alternating current (AC) model in phases, thus rendering the old, pioneering direct current (DC) controlled EMU trains useless.

Pioneering electrification. The Harbour Line holds the distinction of being the first passenger railway in India to be powered by electricity, marking a significant technological advancement in the nation's transportation history. Electric trains were first introduced in Bombay at ‘ground zero’, at Victoria Terminus, in 1925; train coaches were imported, designed akin to those running in England.

Expansion and connectivity. Originally a chord line between Kurla and Victoria Terminus, the Harbour Line expanded to connect New Bombay and Thana, transforming the region's transportation landscape and facilitating the growth of satellite cities. The Harbour Line segment that was the first to get electrified in India would, ironically, be amongst the last to get upgraded in the country with new power technology.

Enduring legacy. Despite the shift to alternating current (AC) and the obsolescence of the old direct current (DC) trains, the Harbour Line continues to serve as a vital transportation artery, carrying millions of passengers and shaping the urban fabric of Bombay. Today, the Harbour Line connects the satellite cities of New Bombay and Thana.

9. BB&CI's Rivalry: Shaping Bombay's Western Corridor

The GIPR and BB&CI Railway companies were in fierce competition with each other and there were severe restrictions on the extent to which trains could run on rival lines.

Competition and innovation. The Bombay, Baroda, and Central India Railway (BB&CI) played a crucial role in shaping Bombay's western corridor, competing fiercely with the GIPR and driving innovation in railway technology and services. The BB&CI Railway wanted to give its arch rival, the GIPR, a run for its money, and the BB&CI Railway’s agent, Ernest Jackson, believed that the introduction of the Frontier Mail would offer stiff competition to the Punjab Limited train.

Shifting landscapes. The BB&CI Railway's expansion and infrastructure projects, including the construction of Bombay Central Station and the development of suburban lines, transformed the city's landscape and facilitated the growth of new residential and commercial areas. The BB&CI Railway was allowed to use the GIPR line only between Dadar and Carnac Bridge, passenger trains of the BB&CI Railway were allowed to use the GIPR line strictly between Mahim and Gowari (now Wadala).

Enduring influence. Despite its eventual merger into the Western Railway, the BB&CI's legacy continues to shape Bombay's transportation network, with its stations, lines, and infrastructure still serving millions of commuters every day. The first suburban service in Bombay, with steam traction, was introduced in April 1867, with one train plying each way between Virar and Backbay Stations.

10. Echoes of the Past: Nostalgic Reflections on Railways and Lost Worlds

I can recall to my mind even today the scene which was vividly impressed on my memory as I stood midst an admiring crowd, a few yards from the old level-crossing at Byculla.

Personal memories. The book weaves together personal recollections, anecdotes, and stories from those who witnessed the arrival of the first trains, offering a glimpse into the golden days of the past and the cultural impact of the railways on Indian society. Dinshaw Wacha was one of the many who witnessed the crucial years of the birth and growth of the railways in India, from the first train run to the lines’ electrification.

Lost worlds. The book also mourns the loss of parts of our collective history, with several railway relics and artifacts having vanished, highlighting the importance of preserving and documenting the remaining vestiges of the past. The defunct industrial lines remind me of a sadder story—the story of the railways’ retreat in the face of competition from roads.

Enduring romance. Despite the changes and challenges, the railways continue to evoke nostalgia and romance, serving as a reminder of a bygone era and the enduring power of human ingenuity and connection. As we admire and indeed love the trains and tracks of the past, and everything which goes with them, we must make sure that Bombay’s railways, and indeed all of India’s railways, always look to the future.

Last updated: April 4, 2025