On the Trail of Genghis Khan

1. The Audacious Journey: Mongolia to Hungary on Horseback

The aim of my journey was to honor and understand those who have lived on the steppes with their horses for thousands of years, carrying on a nomadic way of life.

A 6,000-mile quest. At 25, the author embarked on a horseback journey across the Eurasian steppe, inspired by Genghis Khan and the nomadic Mongols. The goal was to experience and understand the ancient horse-based nomadic cultures that shaped this vast region.

More than just riding. The journey was not merely a physical challenge but a deep dive into a way of life intrinsically linked to horses and the land. It was an attempt to connect with the history and spirit of the steppe peoples, from Mongolia to the Danube River.

Facing the unknown. Despite minimal prior horse experience, the author was driven by the belief that the best teachers would be the nomads themselves. The journey represented a break from conventional life and a commitment to vulnerability and trust in strangers.

2. Learning the Nomad Way in Mongolia

A man without friends is as small as a palm. A man with friends is as big as the steppe.

Early trials and lessons. The journey began in Mongolia, the heartland of nomadic culture, but immediately presented challenges like horse theft and wolf encounters. These early setbacks highlighted the harsh realities of steppe life and the author's unpreparedness.

Immersion in culture. Living among Mongolian nomads provided invaluable lessons in horsemanship, animal care, and survival. The author learned about:

• Horse behavior and training (nomkhon vs. wild)
• Traditional foods (aaruul, airag)
• The importance of community and hospitality
• Ancient beliefs (Tengrism, ovoos, wolf totem)

Adapting to the rhythms. The vast, fenceless landscape and unpredictable weather dictated a new pace of life. The author began to understand the deep connection nomads had with their environment and animals, a connection forged over millennia.

3. Navigating the Legacy of Stalin in Kazakhstan

For people whose lives revolved around their animals, it was worse than being invaded by Genghis Khan’s hordes.

Entering a changed land. Kazakhstan, the geographical heart of the steppe, revealed the devastating impact of Soviet policies, particularly Stalin's forced collectivization. This era brutally dismantled the nomadic way of life, leading to famine and cultural loss.

Survival and corruption. The author faced not only environmental challenges like extreme heat and cold (zhut/zud) but also the social complexities of post-Soviet Kazakhstan. Encounters with corruption, alcoholism, and desperation highlighted the difficult transition to independence.

Resilience and hidden heritage. Despite immense hardship, glimpses of the nomadic past and a deep connection to ancestors (shezire) persisted. The author met individuals who, against the odds, maintained pride in their heritage and kept traditions alive, often in remote areas.

4. The Horse and Dog: Companions and Conduits

They had become my conduit with the land, and perhaps it was more accurate to suggest I was riding to Hungary learning to view the world through their eyes rather than those of a nomad.

A family unit. The horses (Taskonir, Ogonyok, Kok, and others) and the dog (Tigon) were not just transport but essential companions. They shared the brunt of the journey's extremes and provided emotional support in isolation.

Learning through animals. Caring for the animals taught the author practical skills and a deeper understanding of the steppe environment. Their needs dictated the pace and route, and their instincts often guided the way.

Symbols of connection. The animals embodied the spirit of the steppe and its history. The horses, descendants of ancient breeds, navigated the terrain with innate knowledge, while Tigon, the tazi hound, became a loyal protector and a link to the land's wildness.

5. Nomad vs. Sedentary: Contrasting Worlds and Knowledge

Unlike a nomad, who from the back of a horse learned to read the lay of the land using its natural features, this villager had mapped out his world almost exclusively according to roads.

Different ways of seeing. The journey highlighted the fundamental difference between nomadic and sedentary perspectives. Nomads possessed an intimate knowledge of the land's natural contours and resources, navigating by instinct and environmental cues.

Roads vs. landscape. Settled communities, particularly in post-Soviet areas, often relied on roads and maps, losing the ability to read the natural landscape. This reflected a shift from adapting to the environment to controlling it.

Cultural implications. This divergence in understanding the world extended beyond navigation to broader cultural practices and values. The author observed how:

• Hospitality varied between nomadic and settled communities.
• The value of horses shifted from essential companions to work animals or commodities.
• Traditional knowledge was preserved more strongly in areas less impacted by industrialization.

6. Crossing Borders and Bureaucracy in Russia

The most dangerous wolf of all is that which walks on two legs.

Navigating red tape. Entering Russia presented a new set of challenges centered on bureaucracy and permits. The author faced difficulties with visas, horse documentation, and navigating official checkpoints.

Human obstacles. Beyond official hurdles, the author encountered human dangers, including attempted theft and aggression, particularly in transient or economically depressed areas. This reinforced the idea that human threats could be more unpredictable than natural ones.

Contrasting societies. The journey through Russia revealed a mix of post-Soviet realities:

• Remote areas with lingering traditional ways (Kalmykia)
• Industrial towns grappling with economic hardship and corruption (Akbakai, Timashevsk)
• Urban centers reflecting a blend of Russian and local cultures (Astrakhan, Atyrau)

7. Crimea: A Peninsula of Layered Histories and Tensions

Crimea, Crimea, Mother Crimea, / We did not forget our name, / We did not, Mother Crimea, / Exchange our isle for another’s.

A historical melting pot. Crimea, a strategic peninsula on the Black Sea, revealed a complex history of overlapping empires and cultures, from ancient Greeks and Scythians to Mongols, Tatars, Ottomans, and Russians.

Tatar return and conflict. The return of Crimean Tatars from Stalin-era exile fueled ethnic tensions with the predominantly Russian population. Disputes over land and historical narratives highlighted the raw wounds of the past.

Beyond the conflict. Despite the political and social friction, the author found moments of connection and beauty, exploring the diverse landscapes and encountering individuals who embodied the resilience of their cultures, including the unique Crimean Tatars.

8. The Carpathians: A Mountain Barrier and Cultural Refuge

Where there is a Hutsul, there you will find a horse.

A final mountain challenge. The Carpathian Mountains presented a formidable physical barrier, echoing the challenges faced by the Mongols centuries earlier. Navigating steep slopes, dense forests, and unpredictable weather tested the author and animals.

Encountering the Hutsuls. In the remote valleys, the author discovered the Hutsuls, an ethnic group with a strong connection to horses and a culture seemingly less impacted by Soviet policies. Their traditional way of life, craftsmanship, and beliefs offered a glimpse of a preserved heritage.

Nomadic echoes. The Hutsuls' reliance on horses, their seasonal movements to alpine pastures (polonina), and their potential historical links to nomadic peoples resonated deeply with the author's journey, suggesting that elements of steppe culture could endure in unexpected places.

9. Hungary: The Steppe's Western Edge and Nomadic Echoes

The day there are fences in Hungary is the day that this is not my country. I will leave.

Reaching the destination. The journey culminated in Hungary, the historical western limit of the Eurasian steppe and the destination of nomadic migrations like the Magyars and Mongols.

Rediscovering heritage. The author found a surprising number of Hungarians actively engaged in preserving and celebrating their nomadic past. Horsemen, historians, and cultural enthusiasts embraced the author's journey as a validation of their own heritage.

The end of the trail. Hungary, a land of abundance and settled life, symbolized the point where nomadic existence could no longer be sustained. The author reflected on the trade-offs made by peoples who settled the land, gaining security but losing the freedom and unique knowledge of the nomad.

10. The Enduring Spirit: Transformation and Connection

In your mind, your head, you think and act like a nomad even though you are from Australia.

A changed perspective. The journey fundamentally transformed the author, instilling a nomadic mindset. The experience of living in tune with the land and animals, relying on instinct and resilience, became deeply ingrained.

Lessons learned. The steppe taught invaluable lessons:

• Patience and adaptability in the face of uncontrollable forces.
• The importance of self-reliance and resourcefulness.
• The value of human connection and hospitality across cultures.
• A profound appreciation for the natural world and its rhythms.

Carrying the steppe within. Though the physical journey ended, the spirit of the steppe and the lessons learned remained. The author carried forward a unique perspective shaped by the vast landscapes, the enduring cultures, and the deep bond forged with his animal companions.

11. The Journey's True Endings and New Beginnings

The journey had changed me, and I’d fulfilled my dream of riding from Mongolia to Europe, learning to see the world through nomad’s eyes.

Multiple conclusions. The journey didn't end in a single moment but through a series of farewells: leaving the horses and dog, returning to Australia, and grappling with personal loss.

Facing loss and grief. The sudden death of the author's father during the Ukraine leg was a profound personal tragedy that intersected with the journey, forcing a return home and a period of intense grief and reflection.

Integration and moving forward. Readapting to settled life in Australia proved challenging after years on the steppe. The author faced the task of integrating the lessons learned and the person he had become into a different world, carrying the spirit of the journey into new beginnings.

Last updated: May 23, 2025