To Dye For

1. Toxic Fashion: A Hidden Health Crisis

“What’s happening to me is probably happening to you. But you wouldn’t even understand it or know what was causing it.”

Invisible threat. The chemicals used in clothing production, often hidden from view, can cause serious health problems, ranging from skin rashes and breathing difficulties to chronic illnesses and fertility issues. This is not just a problem for garment workers; it affects consumers as well.

Flight attendants as canaries. The acute health problems experienced by flight attendants due to toxic uniforms serve as a warning sign, highlighting the potential dangers of unregulated chemicals in everyday clothing. Their experiences reveal a pattern of symptoms that are often dismissed as "individual sensitivities" but are likely a result of chemical exposure.

• Rashes, breathing problems, thyroid issues, hair loss, extreme fatigue
• Similar symptoms across different airlines and uniform brands
• Lack of transparency and accountability from manufacturers

Widespread impact. The problem of toxic fashion is not limited to extreme cases; it's a widespread issue that affects the general population, albeit often on a less noticeable scale. The lack of ingredient lists on clothing makes it difficult to identify the source of health problems, leaving many consumers in the dark about the potential dangers of their wardrobes.

2. The Chemical Cocktail in Our Clothes

“Fashion products have some of the most complicated and multilayered chemical profiles of any product you or I can buy—without a license, anyway.”

Complex chemical profiles. Clothing is not just fabric; it's a complex mix of multiple chemical substances used in manufacturing, processing, dyeing, finishing, and assembly. Each step in this process can leave residues on the final product, creating a "chemical cocktail" that we wear every day.

• Dyes, finishes, and treatments
• Flame retardants, stain repellents, anti-wrinkle agents
• Residues from manufacturing processes

Lack of regulation. Unlike food and beauty products, fashion lacks ingredient lists and is subject to minimal regulation, especially in the United States. This lack of transparency makes it difficult for consumers to make informed choices and protect themselves from potentially harmful substances.

• Voluntary guidelines set by private companies
• Limited government oversight
• Reliance on industry "best practices"

Invisible menace. Many of these chemicals are invisible and odorless, making it difficult to detect their presence. They can be acutely toxic, causing skin burns or asthma, or they can do their dirty work over years of chronic exposure, leading to cancer, birth defects, and reproductive issues.

3. A History of Poisonous Textiles

“We never do seem to learn.”

Poisoned garments throughout history. The idea of poisoned clothing is not new; it has been a recurring theme throughout history, from Greek mythology to Renaissance courts. While the methods and chemicals have changed, the underlying danger of toxic textiles remains.

• Myth of poisoned robes and gloves
• Use of heavy metals like mercury, lead, and arsenic
• Poisoned clothing as a tool of political intrigue

The Mad Hatter and mercury. The use of mercury in hat making during the 18th and 19th centuries led to severe health problems for hatters, including tremors, mood swings, and neurological damage. This historical example highlights the dangers of unregulated chemical exposure in the fashion industry.

• Mercury used to felt rabbit fur
• Hatters suffered from "the shakes"
• Mercury poisoning as a known occupational hazard

Arsenic greens and deadly dyes. The invention of arsenic-based green dyes in the 18th and 19th centuries led to widespread poisoning of textile workers and consumers. This historical example demonstrates the deadly consequences of prioritizing fashion trends over human health.

• Arsenic used in green pigments for clothing and wallpaper
• Flower makers suffered from skin lesions and respiratory problems
• Public awareness and eventual phasing out of arsenic dyes

4. The Rise of Synthetic Fabrics and Dyes

“It was an exciting time to be a chemist in the early 1800s.”

Fossil fuel-based fabrics. The 20th century saw the rise of synthetic fabrics like nylon, polyester, and acrylic, all derived from fossil fuels. These materials, while offering new possibilities for fashion, also introduced new chemical risks.

• Polyurethane, nylon, polyester, acrylic, spandex
• PVC and phthalates
• Off-gassing of toxic chemicals

Coal tar dyes and the color revolution. The invention of synthetic dyes from coal tar in the mid-19th century led to a revolution in fashion, making bright and saturated colors more accessible. However, these dyes also introduced new health risks, including skin irritation, respiratory problems, and cancer.

• Aniline dyes and their toxic effects
• Azo dyes and their carcinogenic amines
• The rise of the German dye industry

The lure of performance. The desire for wrinkle-free, stain-resistant, and waterproof clothing has led to the widespread use of chemical finishes, often without adequate testing or regulation. These finishes, while offering convenience, can also pose significant health risks.

• Permanent press cotton and formaldehyde
• Water and stain repellents and PFAS
• Anti-odor and anti-microbial treatments

5. Endocrine Disruptors and Fertility

“We see the trends, but we cannot nail the trends to this and that chemical.”

Hormone-disrupting chemicals. Many chemicals used in fashion, such as phthalates, bisphenol A (BPA), and PFAS, are endocrine disruptors, meaning they can interfere with the body's hormones and lead to a range of health problems, including infertility, thyroid issues, and cancer.

• Phthalates in PVC and plastics
• BPA in polyester and spandex
• PFAS in water-repellent finishes

Impact on fertility. Endocrine disruptors have been linked to declining sperm counts in men and increased fertility problems in women. These chemicals can also affect the development of fetuses and children, leading to birth defects and other health issues.

• Falling sperm counts and male infertility
• Increased rates of miscarriage and female infertility
• Early puberty and hormonal imbalances

The need for precaution. Given the potential harm of endocrine disruptors, it's crucial to minimize exposure to these chemicals, especially for pregnant women and children. This requires a shift away from products that contain these substances and a greater emphasis on transparency and regulation.

• No safe level of exposure
• Cumulative effects of multiple exposures
• Need for safer alternatives

6. Chemical Sensitivities and Autoimmune Diseases

“It is easier to synthesize a new chemical than to regulate it.”

Multiple chemical sensitivity (MCS). Some individuals develop a heightened sensitivity to chemicals after an initial overexposure, leading to a range of symptoms, including headaches, fatigue, rashes, and breathing problems. This condition, often dismissed as psychological, is now understood to be a result of mast cell activation.

• Reactions to everyday chemicals and fragrances
• Difficulty tolerating synthetic clothing
• Lack of recognition and support from the medical community

Autoimmune diseases on the rise. Autoimmune diseases, in which the body's immune system attacks its own tissues, are becoming increasingly common, especially among women. While genetics play a role, environmental factors, including chemical exposure, are believed to be a major contributing factor.

• Immune system attacks the body
• Chronic inflammation and pain
• Link to chemical exposure and environmental toxins

The mast cell connection. Mast cells, which are part of the immune system, are now understood to play a key role in both chemical sensitivities and autoimmune diseases. These cells, when overstimulated by toxins, can trigger a cascade of inflammatory responses throughout the body.

• Mast cells as the body's first line of defense
• Sensitization and overreaction to chemicals
• Link to allergies, asthma, and autoimmune disorders

7. The Global Textile Supply Chain

“It never occurred to me in a million years that you can get this sick from wearing clothes.”

Offshoring and exploitation. The fashion industry's reliance on global supply chains has led to the exploitation of workers in developing countries, who are often exposed to hazardous chemicals without adequate protection. This system also makes it difficult to trace the origins of toxic substances and hold manufacturers accountable.

• Low wages and long hours
• Exposure to toxic chemicals in factories
• Lack of worker protections and safety regulations

The tiered system of production. The fashion industry operates on a tiered system, with high-end brands at the top and low-cost manufacturers at the bottom. This system often leads to a race to the bottom, with factories cutting corners on safety and environmental standards to meet the demands of fast fashion.

• High-end brands with better chemical management
• Mid-level factories with limited testing
• Low-cost factories with minimal regulation

The pollution of communities. The textile industry is a major source of pollution, contaminating waterways and soil with toxic chemicals. This pollution not only harms the environment but also poses serious health risks to communities living near factories.

• Contamination of water sources
• Air pollution and respiratory problems
• Long-term health impacts on local populations

8. The Illusion of Safety: Testing and Certification

“It is easier to synthesize a new chemical than to regulate it.”

Voluntary standards and loopholes. Many certifications and standards in the fashion industry are voluntary and often fail to address the full range of toxic chemicals used in production. These certifications can create a false sense of security for consumers, while allowing brands to continue using harmful substances.

• Oeko-Tex and its limitations
• ZDHC and its focus on wastewater
• Lack of comprehensive testing for all chemicals

The problem with "safe" limits. The concept of "safe" limits for chemical exposure is often based on outdated research and fails to account for the cumulative effects of multiple exposures. Many chemicals, even at low levels, can have harmful effects on human health, especially for vulnerable populations like children and pregnant women.

• "The dose makes the poison" fallacy
• Lack of research on chemical interactions
• No safe level for endocrine disruptors

The need for transparency. The fashion industry needs to be more transparent about the chemicals used in its products. This includes providing ingredient lists on clothing labels and making testing data publicly available. Without transparency, consumers are left in the dark about the potential dangers of their wardrobes.

• Lack of ingredient lists on clothing
• Proprietary secrets and hidden chemicals
• Need for public access to testing data

9. Practical Steps for a Safer Wardrobe

“Honestly? The biggest thing it’s done is make me shop less.”

Avoid cheap knockoffs and ultra-fast fashion. These products are often made with the cheapest materials and chemicals, without any regard for safety or environmental standards. Opt for brands that prioritize quality and transparency.

• Low-quality materials and manufacturing
• Lack of testing and regulation
• Potential for toxic chemicals and contaminants

Choose natural materials whenever possible. Opt for natural fibers like cotton, linen, silk, and wool, which are less likely to contain harmful chemicals. Avoid synthetic materials like polyester, nylon, and acrylic, which are often treated with toxic finishes.

• Natural fibers: cotton, linen, silk, wool, hemp
• Synthetic fibers: polyester, nylon, acrylic, PVC, polyurethane
• Avoid performance materials and chemical finishes

Wash new clothing before wearing. Washing new clothing can help remove some of the chemical residues left over from manufacturing. Use unscented laundry products and avoid dryer sheets and fabric softeners.

• Remove chemical residues and finishes
• Use unscented laundry products
• Avoid dryer sheets and fabric softeners

Buy secondhand and swap clothing. Buying secondhand clothing is a great way to reduce your exposure to toxic chemicals and support a more sustainable fashion system. It also allows you to avoid the chemicals that are used in the production of new clothing.

• Reduce exposure to new chemicals
• Support a circular economy
• Save money and reduce waste

Trust your nose. If something smells like chemicals, don't risk it. Put it back in the box and send it right back for a refund. Your body is often the best indicator of whether something is toxic.

• Avoid products with strong chemical odors
• Trust your body's signals
• Prioritize your health over fashion trends

10. Systemic Change: Beyond Individual Action

“It is easier to synthesize a new chemical than to regulate it.”

Tax and tariff untested chemicals. Governments should impose taxes and tariffs on untested chemicals to fund research and incentivize the use of safer alternatives. This would create a financial incentive for companies to prioritize human health and environmental protection.

• Fund research on chemical toxicity
• Discourage the use of hazardous substances
• Level the playing field for responsible brands

Require chemical registration and transparency. Chemical companies should be required to register all chemicals in use and share any associated research. This would provide greater transparency and accountability in the fashion industry.

• Full disclosure of chemical ingredients
• Public access to testing data
• End to proprietary secrets and hidden chemicals

Expand the CPSC's power. The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) needs more funding and authority to test and recall toxic fashion products. This would provide greater protection for consumers and hold manufacturers accountable for the safety of their products.

• More funding for testing and research
• Expanded testing for all types of chemicals
• Mandatory recalls for toxic products

Regulate chemicals as classes. Instead of regulating chemicals one by one, governments should regulate them as classes, such as PFAS, phthalates, and bisphenols. This would prevent companies from simply switching to similar but unregulated chemicals.

• Ban entire classes of toxic chemicals
• Prevent regrettable substitutions
• Simplify the regulatory process

Ban endocrine disruptors. Given the serious health risks associated with endocrine disruptors, governments should ban their use in consumer products, including fashion. This would protect vulnerable populations and promote a healthier environment.

• Total ban on endocrine disruptors
• Prioritize human health over profit
• Promote safer alternatives

Pass due diligence laws. Governments should pass due diligence laws that hold fashion companies liable for pollution and worker health. This would incentivize brands to take responsibility for their supply chains and ensure that workers are protected from hazardous chemicals.

• Hold brands accountable for their supply chains
• Protect worker health and safety
• Promote ethical and sustainable practices

Go after greenwashers. The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) should penalize companies that make inaccurate sustainability claims on their products. This would help to prevent greenwashing and ensure that consumers can trust the information they receive.

• Penalize false and misleading claims
• Promote transparency and accountability
• Protect consumers from deceptive marketing

Require ingredient lists on fashion products. Just like food and beauty products, fashion products should be required to carry a label or QR code that lists all known carcinogenic, mutagenic, reproductive toxic, bioaccumulative, persistent, allergenic, or sensitizing chemicals present.

• Empower consumers to make informed choices
• Promote transparency and accountability
• Create a more responsible fashion industry

Last updated: January 24, 2025