Back on the Road (Otra Vez)

1. A Second Journey Begins: Seeking Purpose Across Latin America

The name of my sidekick has changed—Alberto is now Calica— but the journey is the same: two distinct wills extending out into the Americas, not knowing exactly what it is they seek, nor in which direction it lies.

Departure and uncertainty. Newly graduated as a doctor, Guevara embarks on a second journey through Latin America, this time with Carlos Ferrer ("Calica"). Unlike the first trip's youthful adventure, this one is marked by a deeper, though still undefined, search for meaning and direction.

Contrasting perspectives. The dynamic with Calica differs from his travels with Alberto Granado. While Alberto sought adventure and romance, Calica is more grounded, often critical of the harsh realities they encounter, highlighting the evolving focus of Guevara's own observations.

Early struggles. The journey begins with immediate challenges, including Guevara's persistent asthma and financial constraints. These early difficulties set a tone of hardship that contrasts with the romanticized view of travel, forcing a confrontation with the realities of the road.

2. Bolivian Revolution: Witnessing Social Change and Struggle

The so-called fine folk, the cultured people, have been surprised by events and curse the attention now being paid to the Indian and the mestizo, but I divined in all of them a faint spark of nationalist enthusiasm with regard to some of the government’s actions.

Observing revolution's aftermath. Guevara arrives in Bolivia shortly after the 1952 revolution led by the MNR. He observes the social and political changes, noting the shift in power dynamics and the resentment among the former elite.

Miners' power. He visits the Bolsa Negra mine and is struck by the absence of the miners, who are in La Paz defending the revolution. This highlights the crucial role of the armed working class in the revolutionary process, a lesson he would carry forward.

Political analysis. He analyzes the factions within the ruling MNR party (right, center, left), predicting that power would likely remain with the left-leaning group supported by the miners. He sees the government as relatively secure due to popular support but vulnerable to internal conflict.

3. Peru and Machu Picchu: Reflections on Ancient Civilizations and Modern Poverty

Machu-Picchu does not disappoint; I don’t know how many times I can go on admiring it.

Return to sacred sites. Revisiting Machu Picchu, a highlight of his first trip, evokes nostalgia for his travels with Alberto. The ancient Inca city's beauty remains profound, but his perspective is now colored by his growing awareness of contemporary social issues.

Cultural observations. He contrasts the grandeur of Inca and Mayan ruins with the poverty and social conditions of the present-day indigenous populations. He notes the artistic differences between civilizations, finding Mayan art, particularly stucco work, more sophisticated than Inca ornamentation.

Personal struggles persist. Despite moments of awe, the journey through Peru is marked by continued financial difficulties and health issues. Encounters with bureaucracy and the need to pawn possessions underscore the harsh realities faced by travelers without means.

4. Hardship and Empathy: Navigating Poverty and Injustice

For those simple souls, the mere fact that we had come to visit them, even out of curiosity, made us deserving of their gratitude.

Encountering the marginalized. Throughout the journey, Guevara interacts with and observes the lives of the poor and marginalized, including indigenous communities, leprosy patients, and laborers. These encounters deepen his empathy and reinforce his critique of social inequality.

Working for survival. He takes on various odd jobs, including photography and manual labor, to fund his travels. This direct experience of working-class life contrasts sharply with his privileged background and informs his evolving political consciousness.

Witnessing exploitation. His observations of the United Fruit Company's operations in Guatemala, including their treatment of striking workers, provide concrete examples of the foreign exploitation he increasingly rails against.

5. Costa Rica: Analyzing Political Systems and Leaders

The meeting with Juan Bosch was very interesting. He’s a literary person with clear ideas and leftist tendencies.

Meeting political figures. In Costa Rica, Guevara actively seeks out and engages with prominent political exiles and leaders, including Juan Bosch and Manuel Mora Valverde. These discussions provide him with insights into the region's complex political dynamics.

Critiquing systems. He analyzes the political history of Costa Rica, particularly the influence of the United Fruit Company and the role of various political parties and figures. He is critical of politicians he perceives as compromising with foreign interests or lacking genuine revolutionary commitment.

Deepening political education. These conversations, particularly with figures like Mora Valverde, contribute significantly to his understanding of Latin American history, US intervention, and the challenges faced by progressive movements.

6. Guatemala: Observing a Democratic Experiment Under Threat

While in Guatemala, he studies Marxism and becomes involved in the community of Latin American political exiles who are active there.

Arrival in a hopeful climate. Guevara arrives in Guatemala under the popularly elected government of Jacobo Árbenz, which is implementing land reform and challenging foreign corporate power. He finds a vibrant community of political exiles and intellectuals.

Studying Marxism. During his time in Guatemala, he dedicates himself to studying Marxism and becomes increasingly involved in political discussions and activities with exiles and local leftists. This period is crucial for the development of his theoretical framework.

Seeking purpose and work. He struggles to find stable work that aligns with his skills and ideals, facing bureaucratic hurdles and political suspicion. His attempts to secure medical positions or other jobs reflect his desire to contribute to the progressive environment.

7. The CIA Coup: A Turning Point Towards Revolutionary Commitment

The cold, hard truth is that Árbenz did not know how to rise to the occasion.

Witnessing intervention firsthand. The CIA-backed coup against Árbenz is a pivotal event. Guevara experiences the bombing, the panic, and the swift dismantling of the democratic government, solidifying his view of US imperialism as the primary obstacle to Latin American progress.

Critique of Árbenz's failure. He is critical of Árbenz's decision not to arm the people, believing this was a crucial mistake that led to the government's collapse. This reinforces his conviction that armed struggle and popular mobilization are necessary for genuine revolution.

Commitment to action. The experience in Guatemala transforms his intellectual understanding into a firm commitment to revolutionary action. He realizes that observation and study are not enough; direct participation in the struggle is essential.

8. Mexico: Finding the Path and Joining the Cuban Revolution

One political event was a meeting with Fidel Castro, the Cuban revolutionary, an intelligent, young fellow who is very sure of himself and extraordinarily audacious; I think we hit it off well.

Exile and regrouping. After seeking asylum in the Argentine embassy in Guatemala, Guevara travels to Mexico. He continues to face financial difficulties and searches for work, including photography and journalism, while maintaining his political contacts.

Meeting Fidel Castro. The encounter with Fidel Castro is the culmination of his journey and search for purpose. He immediately recognizes in Castro the leader and the revolutionary project he was seeking, deciding to join the planned expedition to Cuba.

Embracing the revolutionary identity. His time in Mexico marks a definitive shift. He abandons plans for a conventional medical career or further aimless travel, dedicating himself fully to the revolutionary cause, even facing imprisonment for his activities.

Last updated: May 23, 2025