Over the Edge

1. An Idyllic Climbing Expedition Turns Violent

My memories of that time are of idyllic days camped on verdant meadows alongside rushing rivers, of encounters with friendly Kyrgyz shepherds, and of climbs on towering granite pinnacles up to four thousand feet in height.

Seeking adventure. Four young American climbers—Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, Jason "Singer" Smith, and John Dickey—traveled to the remote Karavshin region of Kyrgyzstan, known as the "Yosemite of Central Asia," for a month-long big-wall climbing expedition in August 2000. They were drawn by the region's spectacular granite cliffs and its reputation among international climbers. Their trip was sponsored by The North Face, hoping for photos for advertising.

Ignoring warnings. Despite some awareness of State Department advisories about potential danger from Islamic militants in southern Kyrgyzstan, the climbers dismissed them as outdated or irrelevant to the well-traveled Karavshin area. They relied on recommendations from friends and tour operators who assured them the region was safe, overlooking more explicit warnings about kidnappings and conflict near the Tajik border. Their focus was on climbing, not regional politics.

A sudden shock. Just days into their expedition, while camped on the side of the Yellow Wall, their peaceful adventure was shattered by the sound of gunfire. This marked the abrupt end of their idyllic climbing holiday and the terrifying beginning of their unexpected entanglement in a regional conflict they had hoped to avoid.

2. Captured by Islamic Militants in a War Zone

“Shit! That was definitely for us!” John Dickey shouts, reflexively curling into a fetal position.

Forced descent. Waking to bullets hitting the cliff face, the four climbers realized they were being shot at by armed men on the ground who were ordering them down. Despite initial disbelief and attempts to rationalize the situation, they had no choice but to rappel 1,000 feet from their portaledges into the unknown, leaving their gear behind. John Dickey went first, followed by Smith, Caldwell, and Rodden.

Realization of capture. On the ground, they met three armed men who were not soldiers or shepherds, but militants. The men, later identified as Abdul, Obid, and Su, were looting their base camp, confirming they were bandits. Their discovery of a captured Kyrgyz soldier, Turat Osmanov, who communicated that his comrades had been killed and that the militants wanted the Americans for ransom, solidified the terrifying realization: they were hostages.

Stripped and packed. The militants, identified as staunch Muslims who neither smoked nor drank, ordered the climbers to pack rucksacks with food, clothing, and supplies, indicating a long journey ahead. They took the climbers' passports but seemed primarily interested in provisions and the female hostage. The climbers' initial hope that this was just a robbery quickly dissolved into the grim reality of being prisoners in a volatile region.

3. The Shadowy World of the Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan

Few foreigners realized it, but the fighting men of the Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan had declared open season on tourists in Kyrgyzstan.

Origins of the IMU. The Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan (IMU) emerged from the chaos following the collapse of the Soviet Union and the civil war in Tajikistan. Led by Juma Namangani and Takhir Yuldashev, Uzbek exiles who fought alongside Tajik opposition forces, the IMU aimed to overthrow Uzbekistan's secular government and establish an Islamic state based on Shari'a law. Their radical agenda attracted disaffected Muslims from across Central Asia and beyond.

Links to global terror. The IMU forged strong ties with the Taliban and Osama bin Laden's Al Qaeda network, receiving funding, arms, and training in Afghanistan. These alliances provided the IMU with resources and safe havens, enabling them to launch cross-border attacks. The U.S. State Department would later designate the IMU as a foreign terrorist organization, citing its links to Al Qaeda and its threats to regional security.

Funding through crime. Beyond ideological goals, the IMU was heavily involved in criminal activities, particularly the lucrative smuggling of opium and heroin from Afghanistan through Central Asia to Russia and Europe. This drug trade provided significant financial resources to fund their military operations and sustain their fighters, making them a formidable and dangerous force in the region.

4. Escalating Conflict Traps Other Climbers

“It was very strange,” a young German climber named Stefan Hiermaier will tell Caldwell and Rodden when they walk into his camp looking for the Australians. “The soldiers took them away.”

Warnings ignored by some. While the Americans dismissed warnings, other expeditions in the Karavshin had encountered signs of trouble. Australian climbers were escorted out by soldiers due to permit issues and escalating military presence, despite being told the area was safe by their tour operator. Ukrainian climbers were stopped at a checkpoint near Vorukh and warned of imminent fighting, but they too proceeded into the mountains, bribing helicopter pilots for transport.

First clashes. Unbeknownst to the climbers, IMU rebels had already infiltrated the valleys, ambushing and killing Kyrgyz soldiers in the days leading up to the Americans' capture. Sergeant Turat Osmanov, later captured and held with the Americans, was part of a patrol ambushed by the rebels. These initial skirmishes marked the beginning of "Batken II," the second major conflict between the Kyrgyz army and the IMU.

Caught in the crossfire. The presence of multiple climbing teams (American, German, Ukrainian, Uzbek) in the Karavshin coincided with the IMU's incursion, making them potential targets for kidnapping and ransom. The escalating violence and military response meant that anyone in the valleys, whether climber, shepherd, or soldier, was at risk of being caught in the rapidly unfolding conflict.

5. A Harrowing Journey Through the Mountains

“I’m bogging,” Smith tells Rodden, who is right behind him. Bogging— a slang term—is his way of saying that he’s stepped over the edge of his physical endurance.

Forced marches. After being captured, the climbers were forced on a grueling, multi-day march through the rugged mountain terrain, primarily at night to avoid detection by the Kyrgyz army. Burdened by heavy rucksacks packed with stolen supplies, they stumbled over difficult ground, often off-trail, enduring physical exhaustion and dehydration. Their captors, though also tired, were relentless in pushing them forward.

Miserable bivouacs. Nights were spent in cramped, uncomfortable hideouts, often exposed to the elements. Dickey and Rodden endured a particularly miserable night crammed into a small, waterlogged cave beside a river, shivering uncontrollably. These harsh conditions, combined with lack of sleep and inadequate clothing, pushed the climbers to their physical and mental limits.

Hunger and thirst. Food was scarce and unappetizing, consisting mainly of stolen yak butter and hard, bitter dried yogurt balls. Water was often contaminated glacial meltwater, causing stomach problems. The constant hunger and thirst added another layer of suffering to their ordeal, weakening them and making the arduous marches even more difficult.

6. Witnessing Brutality and Death

“Oh God,” Caldwell mutters when he understands that Osmanov has made the universal symbol for death—the slit throat.

Execution of a fellow hostage. The climbers were forced to witness the brutal reality of the conflict and their captors' ruthlessness. They saw the captured Kyrgyz soldier, Turat Osmanov, beaten and threatened. Later, during a firefight with Kyrgyz border guards, Osmanov was ordered to move to an exposed position and was executed by the rebels, likely because he was no longer useful or was seen as a liability.

Caught in a firefight. Hiding with the rebels during a battle between the militants and Kyrgyz soldiers, the climbers were terrifyingly close to the action. Bullets flew around them, hitting rocks and trees, and they saw Kyrgyz soldiers fall. The intensity and proximity of the fighting, and the rebels' apparent disregard for their safety, underscored the extreme danger of their situation.

The rebels' nature. Through their interactions and observations, the climbers saw the dual nature of their captors: moments of unexpected politeness (like Abdul offering Rodden a trekking pole to cross a river) mixed with chilling brutality and fanaticism. The rebels' casual attitude towards violence, their religious fervor, and their willingness to kill highlighted the perilousness of being in their hands.

7. Desperation Leads to a Dangerous Plan

“We’ve gotta take these guys out somehow, Tommy. If they take us to wherever-the-fuckistan, we could be there for months.”

Dwindling hope. As the days passed with no sign of rescue and the rebels continued to lead them on a circuitous route, the climbers' hope of being found by the Kyrgyz army began to fade. They realized they were deep in rebel territory, likely being moved towards a stronghold in Tajikistan, where they could be held for months for ransom. The prospect of prolonged captivity and uncertain fate fueled their desperation.

Debating escape. The physical and psychological toll of the ordeal, combined with the realization that their lives were in their own hands, led to intense discussions about attempting an escape. Smith and Dickey, in particular, began formulating plans to overpower their captors, despite the inherent risks and the moral implications of using lethal force.

Moral dilemma. The idea of killing their captors, even in self-defense, presented a profound moral challenge, particularly for Caldwell and Rodden. They debated the rightness of taking a human life, even that of a terrorist, and grappled with the potential consequences if their attempt failed. This internal conflict added another layer of tension to their already desperate situation.

8. A Moment of Action Changes Everything

Caldwell grabs the barrel of the Kalashnikov slung across Su’s back and gives it a single, strong, outward tug. The force makes the rebel lose his balance.

Opportunity arises. After days of discussion and missed chances, an opportunity for escape presented itself on the sixth night of captivity. Abdul left the group to fetch supplies, leaving the climbers guarded only by Su, the youngest and seemingly least experienced rebel. As they scrambled up a steep, cliffy hillside, the climbers saw their chance to act while Su was distracted and vulnerable.

Caldwell's decision. While Smith and Dickey debated and hesitated, Tommy Caldwell, driven by the fear of a coming storm and the need to protect Rodden, made a split-second decision. He moved quickly to Su's side as the rebel was navigating a precarious section of cliff. Without hesitation, Caldwell pulled Su's rifle, causing him to lose his balance and fall.

The fall and its aftermath. Su tumbled down the steep slope, hitting a ledge before disappearing into the darkness below. The climbers believed he had fallen hundreds of feet and was dead. Caldwell was immediately overcome with horror and guilt, wailing about what he had done. Despite his anguish, the others urged him to move, recognizing that their lives now depended on putting as much distance as possible between themselves and Abdul.

9. A Terrifying Dash to Freedom

“He’s gone! Go! Go! Go!”

Frantic flight. Believing they had killed their guard, the climbers were propelled by sheer terror into a desperate run through the dark, rugged terrain. They stumbled, fell, and pushed each other forward, driven by the fear that Abdul would discover Su's fate and pursue them. Their physical exhaustion was momentarily overridden by adrenaline.

Navigating the night. Relying on their memory of the terrain from their earlier trek, they aimed for the army outpost at Kurbaka. They ran along riverbanks, crossed bridges, and navigated gullies, constantly scanning the shadows for signs of pursuit or ambush. Every sound, every shape in the moonlight, heightened their fear and urgency.

Encountering soldiers. As they neared the Mazar shrine, just shy of Kurbaka, they were spotted by Kyrgyz soldiers. Confusion and panic ensued as shots were fired, both from behind them (possibly rebels or spooked soldiers) and from the soldiers ahead. In a final terrifying dash through the crossfire, they ran into the stone compound, yelling that they were Americans, unsure if they were running towards rescue or death.

10. Survival, Scrutiny, and Lingering Trauma

“I just don’t see anything good in this at all,” Caldwell says quietly.

Rescue and return. The soldiers at Mazar, initially mistaking them for rebels, quickly realized they were the missing Americans. They were given food, water, and medical attention, then airlifted to the mobile anti-terrorist base at Batken, where they met the Kyrgyz Minister of Defense and President. Their story of escape, initially shared as a collective act to protect Caldwell, began to circulate as they were flown to Bishkek and handed over to the U.S. embassy.

Media whirlwind. Upon their return to America, the climbers were thrust into a media frenzy. Their story of survival and escape, particularly the detail of pushing their captor, captured public attention. While some hailed them as heroes, the intense scrutiny and repeated retelling of their traumatic experience took a heavy psychological toll, leading to nightmares, anxiety, and strained relationships among the group.

Doubt and controversy. The news months later that Ravshan Sharipov (Su) had survived the fall and was in a Kyrgyz prison, combined with conflicting accounts from Kyrgyz officials and journalists, fueled skepticism and accusations that the climbers had fabricated or exaggerated their story for financial gain. This public doubt, despite the climbers' consistent core narrative and the corroboration of key details by those involved, added another layer of pain and trauma to their already difficult recovery.

Last updated: May 31, 2025