Overdressed

1. The rise of cheap fashion has transformed our relationship with clothing

We've gone from making good use of the clothes we own to buying things we'll never or barely wear.

Cheap clothing revolution. In recent decades, the average price of clothing has plummeted while consumption has skyrocketed. Americans now buy and hoard roughly twenty billion garments per year. This shift has fundamentally changed our relationship with clothing:

• We expect unrealistically low prices (e.g. $30 dresses, $15 shoes)
• Clothes are treated as disposable rather than valuable
• We own more clothes than ever before, yet wear only a small fraction
• Fast fashion chains like H&M, Zara, and Forever 21 dominate the market
• Department stores and higher-quality brands struggle to compete on price

Cultural impact. The abundance of cheap clothing has normalized frequent shopping and wardrobe turnover. Many consumers now shop multiple times per week, constantly chasing new trends. This behavior was unthinkable just a generation ago when clothing was more expensive and treated with greater care.

2. Clothing production has shifted overseas, devastating domestic industries

We have chosen low-priced clothes made in other countries, and the loss of our garment trades has contributed to a decline in domestic wages, the loss of the middle class, and the problem of unemployment, especially for those at the bottom of the economic ladder.

Outsourcing epidemic. The United States now produces only 2% of the clothing its consumers purchase, down from about 50% in 1990. This shift has decimated domestic manufacturing:

• Nearly 650,000 apparel jobs were lost in the U.S. between 1997-2007
• Entire textile towns and garment districts have been wiped out
• Skills and infrastructure for domestic production have eroded
• Worker wages and protections have declined globally

Global consequences. The race to find the cheapest labor has created a "race to the bottom" in terms of wages and working conditions. Countries like Bangladesh now dominate in basic garment production, often with substandard safety and labor practices. Meanwhile, China has become the world's factory, producing 41% of U.S. clothing imports.

3. Fast fashion accelerates trends and encourages overconsumption

Trends are quickly exhausted, giving the fashion industry yet another opportunity to come up with something else for us to buy and wear. This cycle is speeding up, and more trends than ever now exist at any given moment.

Trend acceleration. Fast fashion retailers like Zara and H&M have revolutionized the industry by:

• Introducing new styles weekly or even daily
• Producing clothes in small batches to create scarcity
• Closely monitoring sales data to quickly reproduce popular items
• Copying high-end designer looks at a fraction of the price

Consumer impact. This model encourages frequent shopping and impulse purchases:

• Shoppers visit fast fashion stores 17 times per year on average
• Many consumers buy clothes they never wear
• The thrill of the "find" often overshadows actual need or quality
• Wardrobes expand while individual items get less use

The result is a self-perpetuating cycle of trend chasing and disposal, with little regard for sustainability or long-term value.

4. The true cost of cheap clothing is hidden from consumers

Buying so much clothing, and treating it as if it is disposable, is putting a huge added weight on the environment and is simply unsustainable.

Environmental toll. The fashion industry is a major polluter:

• Textile production uses vast amounts of water, energy, and chemicals
• Synthetic fibers like polyester are derived from petroleum
• Clothing waste is overwhelming landfills
• Fast fashion's disposable nature exacerbates these issues

Human cost. Low prices often come at the expense of worker welfare:

• Garment workers in developing countries earn poverty wages
• Factory conditions can be dangerous and exploitative
• Long hours and lack of job security are common
• Child labor remains a problem in some areas

Hidden externalities. The low sticker price of fast fashion items doesn't account for:

• Environmental remediation costs
• Healthcare costs for workers and affected communities
• Loss of domestic jobs and economic multiplier effects
• Cultural homogenization as local styles are replaced by global trends

5. Quality and craftsmanship have been sacrificed for low prices

People are wearing rags, basically.

Decline in quality. To keep prices low, clothing manufacturers have cut corners:

• Thinner, lighter fabrics are used
• Synthetic materials replace natural fibers
• Construction details like linings and strong seams are eliminated
• Garments are designed for shorter lifespans

Loss of craftsmanship. As production has moved overseas and speeds have increased:

• Skilled labor has been replaced by assembly-line production
• Traditional techniques are abandoned for faster methods
• Quality control is often sacrificed for speed to market
• The art of tailoring and custom fitting has nearly disappeared

Consumer expectations. Low prices have reset what we consider "good enough":

• Many consumers can't recognize quality construction
• Durability is less valued than trendiness
• The idea of investing in clothing seems foreign to many
• Frequent replacement is expected and accepted

6. Ethical and sustainable fashion is gaining momentum

Fashion should be flexible and responsive. Instead, global chains are trying to take the risk out of fashion by selling the same carefully orchestrated trends, which are repeated on the racks of virtually every retailer, making our store-bought looks feel homogenous and generic.

Growing awareness. Consumers are becoming more conscious of fashion's impact:

• Demand for transparent supply chains is increasing
• Ethical certifications like Fair Trade are expanding to clothing
• Sustainable materials (organic cotton, Tencel, recycled polyester) are more available

New business models. Innovative companies are challenging fast fashion:

• Slow fashion emphasizes quality, longevity, and timeless style
• Local production is seeing a resurgence in some areas
• Rental and resale markets offer alternatives to ownership
• Some brands are embracing radical transparency in pricing and sourcing

Consumer shift. While still niche, ethical fashion is growing:

• Some consumers are willing to pay more for sustainable products
• "Buy less, buy better" philosophy is gaining traction
• Interest in the story behind products is increasing
• DIY and customization offer alternatives to mass-produced fashion

7. Rediscovering sewing and mending can transform our wardrobes

Sewing gives back a feeling of agency and self-sufficiency. It allows you to look under the hood. Sewing gives you all the power of fashion and quality in your hands—and relinquishes nothing to the system.

Lost skills. Basic sewing and mending skills have largely disappeared in a single generation:

• Many people can't even sew on a button
• Altering clothes for better fit is rarely considered
• Mending is often seen as more trouble than buying new

Empowerment through making. Learning to sew offers numerous benefits:

• Ability to customize and personalize clothing
• Better understanding of garment construction and quality
• Potential for creative expression and unique style
• Satisfaction of creating or repairing something yourself

Accessibility. Modern technology has made sewing more approachable:

• YouTube tutorials offer free instruction
• Entry-level sewing machines are relatively affordable
• Online communities provide support and inspiration
• Fabric and supplies are widely available

8. The future of fashion lies in slow, local, and mindful consumption

Clothes could have more meaning and longevity if we think less about owning the latest or cheapest thing and develop more of a relationship with the things we wear.

Paradigm shift. A new approach to fashion is emerging:

• Focus on quality over quantity
• Emphasis on timeless style rather than fleeting trends
• Appreciation for craftsmanship and artisanal techniques
• Interest in the story and provenance of clothing

Local revival. As overseas production costs rise, domestic manufacturing is seeing renewed interest:

• Small-batch production becomes more viable
• Local designers can offer unique, limited-run pieces
• Customization and made-to-order become more accessible
• Regional styles and traditions can be preserved and celebrated

Mindful consumption. Consumers are rethinking their relationship with clothing:

• Capsule wardrobes emphasize versatility and quality
• Clothing swaps and secondhand shopping offer sustainable alternatives
• Repairing and upcycling extend the life of garments
• Renting provides access to variety without ownership

By embracing these principles, we can build a more sustainable and satisfying relationship with fashion, moving away from the disposable mindset of recent decades.

Last updated: January 23, 2025