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Deluxe

Deluxe

How Luxury Lost Its Luster
by Dana Thomas 2007 384 pages
3.89
3k+ ratings
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Key Takeaways

1. Luxury's Essence: From Craftsmanship to Mass-Market Aspiration

Luxury has lost its luster.

Historical Roots. True luxury was once defined by handcrafted pieces, superior quality, and a tradition of excellence, catering to an elite clientele. Brands like Louis Vuitton, Hermès, and Cartier began as small artisan shops, creating beautiful wares for royal courts and aristocrats.

Shift in Focus. Over time, corporate tycoons transformed these houses into global brands, prioritizing profit over craftsmanship. The focus shifted from the product itself to what it represents: status, aspiration, and belonging.

Democratization of Luxury. To reach a wider audience, luxury companies adopted strategies like lower-priced accessories, expanded retail networks, and aggressive marketing. This "democratization" diluted the exclusivity and undermined the original essence of luxury.

2. The Rise of Luxury Conglomerates: A Shift in Power and Priorities

What I like is the idea of transforming creativity into profitability. It’s what I like the most.

Corporate Takeover. Tycoons like Bernard Arnault acquired luxury companies, turning them into brands within larger conglomerates. This shift brought business acumen but also a relentless focus on profitability and shareholder value.

Homogenization and Standardization. To maximize efficiency and reach, conglomerates standardized stores, products, and marketing strategies. This homogenization eroded the unique character and individuality of each brand.

Financial Pressures. Publicly traded luxury companies face constant pressure to deliver quarterly profit increases. This pressure often leads to cost-cutting measures, such as using inferior materials and outsourcing production, further compromising quality.

3. Globalization of Luxury: Homogenization and the Quest for New Markets

Luxury is crossing all age, racial, geographic and economic brackets.

Japanese Influence. The Japanese market played a pivotal role in shaping the globalization of luxury. Their love for Western brands and emphasis on conformity led to the mass production and logo-driven designs that became hallmarks of the industry.

Global Expansion. Luxury companies expanded their retail presence worldwide, opening stores in major cities and tourist destinations. This expansion aimed to capture new markets and cater to the growing ranks of wealthy consumers.

Emerging Markets. China, India, and Russia have become key markets for luxury brands. These countries offer vast potential for growth, but also present challenges in terms of cultural differences, counterfeiting, and ethical considerations.

4. Celebrity Influence: The Red Carpet as a Marketing Battlefield

The way we dress reflects not only our personality but also our economic, political, and social standing and our self-worth.

Hollywood's Embrace. Luxury brands recognized the power of celebrity endorsements and began dressing stars for red carpet events. This strategy provided invaluable publicity and helped associate brands with glamour and aspiration.

Stylists as Gatekeepers. Celebrity stylists emerged as key players in the luxury ecosystem, curating looks and influencing brand choices. This created a new dynamic, with stylists wielding significant power over designers and brands.

Ethical Concerns. The pursuit of celebrity endorsements has led to questionable practices, including bribery, pressure tactics, and a focus on short-term gains over long-term brand integrity.

5. The Seduction of Scent: Perfume as an Accessible Luxury

Luxury is a necessity that begins where necessity ends.

Perfume's Role. Perfume has long served as an entry point to luxury brands, allowing consumers to own a small piece of the dream. It also provides substantial profits for luxury companies.

Mass Production. To maximize sales, luxury brands have expanded their perfume lines and introduced lower-priced eau de toilettes and body products. This has made perfume more accessible but also diluted its exclusivity.

Synthetic Ingredients. To cut costs, many luxury perfumes now rely heavily on synthetic ingredients, sacrificing the complexity and richness of natural essences. This has led to a decline in the overall quality and artistry of perfume creation.

6. Handbags as Status Symbols: The "It" Bag Phenomenon

The way I define luxury isn’t by fabric or fiber or the amount of gold bits hanging from it. That’s an old definition. For me, luxury is about pleasing yourself, not dressing for other people.

Handbags as Icons. Luxury handbags have become potent symbols of status and aspiration. The "It" bag phenomenon, driven by marketing and fashion magazines, has created a frenzy among consumers to own the latest must-have accessory.

Profit Margins. The markup on handbags is significantly higher than on other luxury goods, making them a key driver of revenue for luxury companies. This has led to a focus on producing and promoting handbags over other product categories.

Conspicuous Consumption. The emphasis on logos and brand recognition has turned handbags into displays of wealth and social standing. This conspicuous consumption has overshadowed the original values of craftsmanship and quality.

7. The Dark Side of Luxury: Counterfeiting, Exploitation, and Ethical Compromises

War destroys man, but luxury destroys mankind; at once corrupts the body and the mind.

Counterfeiting's Impact. The counterfeiting of luxury goods has become a massive global industry, funding illicit activities such as drug trafficking, human trafficking, and terrorism. This undermines the integrity of luxury brands and poses a threat to society.

Exploitation of Labor. To cut costs, some luxury companies have quietly outsourced production to developing nations, where workers are often exploited and paid meager wages. This raises ethical concerns about the treatment of labor in the luxury supply chain.

Moral Compromises. The pursuit of profit has led some luxury companies to engage in questionable practices, such as selling products to Nazi officers during World War II or turning a blind eye to illegal activities in their stores.

8. The Allure of "New Luxury": Authenticity, Craftsmanship, and Personalization

Luxury is a necessity that begins where necessity ends.

Backlash Against Mass-Market Luxury. Some consumers are seeking alternatives to the mass-produced, logo-driven products that dominate the luxury market. They are drawn to brands that offer authenticity, craftsmanship, and personalization.

Emphasis on Heritage and Storytelling. New luxury brands emphasize their history, values, and the stories behind their products. They focus on creating a connection with consumers based on shared values and a sense of community.

Customization and Bespoke Services. To cater to individual tastes, some luxury brands offer made-to-order products and personalized services. This allows consumers to create unique items that reflect their personal style and preferences.

9. The Rise of Fast Fashion and Designer Collaborations: Luxury's Response

Luxury is the ease of a T-shirt in a very expensive dress. If you don’t have it, you are not a person used to luxury. You are just a rich person who can buy stuff.

Fast Fashion's Influence. The success of fast fashion companies like H&M and Zara has forced luxury brands to adapt their strategies. They have shortened production cycles, increased the frequency of new collections, and collaborated with designers to create more accessible lines.

Designer Collaborations. Luxury brands have partnered with fast fashion retailers to create limited-edition collections that offer high-end designs at affordable prices. This has allowed them to reach a wider audience and generate buzz.

Blurring of Lines. The collaboration between luxury and fast fashion has blurred the lines between the two segments. This has raised questions about the value and exclusivity of luxury brands.

10. The Future of Luxury: A Return to Exclusivity and Ethical Practices

If you would abolish avarice, you must abolish its mother, luxury.

Reclaiming Authenticity. The future of luxury may lie in a return to its original values: craftsmanship, quality, and exclusivity. This involves focusing on creating exceptional products that are made with care and attention to detail.

Ethical Sourcing and Production. Consumers are increasingly concerned about the ethical implications of their purchases. Luxury brands that prioritize fair labor practices, sustainable materials, and environmental responsibility will be better positioned to succeed.

Personalization and Experiences. The new luxury will be about creating unique and memorable experiences for consumers. This includes offering personalized services, custom-made products, and exclusive events that foster a sense of community and belonging.

Last updated:

FAQ

What is Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster by Dana Thomas about?

  • Transformation of luxury industry: The book traces the evolution of the luxury goods industry from exclusive, artisanal workshops to mass-produced, global corporations.
  • Behind-the-scenes revelations: Dana Thomas exposes how luxury brands have shifted focus from craftsmanship and exclusivity to profit and mass appeal.
  • Key themes and scope: It covers globalization, marketing, counterfeiting, and the sociocultural impact of luxury consumption, offering a critical look at the industry’s changes.
  • Personal and investigative approach: Thomas combines historical analysis, interviews, and firsthand experiences to provide a comprehensive narrative.

Why should I read Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster by Dana Thomas?

  • Insider’s perspective: The book offers a rare, critical look at the luxury industry’s inner workings, revealing realities behind the glamorous façade.
  • Understanding consumer culture: Readers gain insight into how luxury brands manipulate desire, status, and identity through marketing and branding.
  • Critical analysis: Thomas challenges common perceptions, exposing issues like loss of craftsmanship, exploitation, and the dark side of democratized luxury.
  • Broader relevance: Essential for those interested in fashion, business, culture, or the ethics of global consumerism.

What are the key takeaways from Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster by Dana Thomas?

  • Craft to corporation: Luxury shifted from handcrafted, exclusive goods to mass-produced, profit-driven products through corporate consolidation and globalization.
  • Handbags as profit engines: Iconic handbags became central to brand identity and financial success, often overshadowing clothing and other products.
  • Globalized production: Manufacturing moved to low-cost countries, raising concerns about quality, authenticity, and labor ethics.
  • Counterfeiting and brand dilution: The rise of fakes and mass-market strategies threaten the exclusivity and value of luxury brands.

How does Dana Thomas in Deluxe explain the historical origins and evolution of the luxury goods industry?

  • European aristocratic roots: Luxury began in royal courts, with artisans crafting exclusive goods for monarchs and nobility, establishing brands like Louis Vuitton and Hermès.
  • Industrial Revolution expansion: The rise of the bourgeoisie broadened luxury’s clientele, making conspicuous consumption a social marker.
  • Postwar and social change: After WWII, designers like Dior revived luxury, but the 1960s-70s saw democratization through licensing and ready-to-wear lines.
  • Modern transformation: The industry shifted from tradition and exclusivity to mass production and global marketing.

How did luxury brands become global corporations, according to Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster?

  • Corporate takeovers: Family-owned houses were acquired by business moguls like Bernard Arnault, forming conglomerates such as LVMH.
  • Vertical integration: Brands began controlling production, distribution, and retail, maximizing profits and standardizing quality.
  • Global retail expansion: Flagship stores and standardized marketing created a cohesive global image, with luxury brands entering new markets worldwide.
  • Profit over heritage: The focus shifted from artisanal values to financial growth and market dominance.

What role do marketing, celebrity culture, and advertising play in luxury’s success, as described in Deluxe by Dana Thomas?

  • Advertising revolution: Luxury brands invested billions in provocative campaigns, using supermodels and celebrities to build global recognition.
  • Celebrity endorsements: Hollywood stars and stylists became key to promoting brands, providing free publicity and influencing trends.
  • Event sponsorships: Brands sponsor high-profile events to associate with glamour and exclusivity, reinforcing the luxury fantasy.
  • Manipulating desire: Marketing strategies create aspiration and status, driving consumer demand for luxury goods.

How has globalization affected luxury markets, especially in Asia, according to Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster?

  • Japanese market dominance: Japan became a major luxury consumer, influencing product design and retail strategies.
  • China’s explosive growth: Brands rapidly expanded into China and other emerging markets, adapting to local tastes and shopping habits.
  • Homogenized global retail: Luxury stores worldwide adopted similar opulent designs, creating a consistent brand image.
  • New consumer demographics: The rise of middle-class and young consumers in Asia reshaped global luxury demand.

What does Dana Thomas reveal about the globalization of luxury goods production in Deluxe?

  • Shift to low-cost countries: Manufacturing moved from Europe to China, Mauritius, and Vietnam to cut labor costs.
  • Complex supply chains: Luxury products now combine materials and components from multiple countries, complicating provenance and quality control.
  • Labor and ethical concerns: Factories often employ young workers in challenging conditions, raising questions about labor standards and human rights.
  • Technological innovations: Brands use advanced tools to increase productivity, sometimes at the expense of artisanal quality.

How did luxury handbags become central to the industry, according to Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster?

  • Handbags as brand entry point: Designers like Tom Ford made handbags the primary product introducing customers to luxury brands.
  • The “It” bag phenomenon: Iconic designs like Fendi’s Baguette drove sales, brand prestige, and sparked industry-wide trends.
  • Production scale-up: Brands adopted assembly-line methods and globalized manufacturing to meet booming demand.
  • Profit and status: Handbags became the most visible and profitable luxury item, symbolizing status and aspiration.

What insights does Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster provide about the perfume industry within luxury?

  • Perfume as accessible luxury: Fragrances allow consumers to buy into luxury brands at a lower price point, supporting broader brand marketing.
  • Craftsmanship and sourcing: The book details the artistry of master perfumers and the sourcing of rare ingredients from places like Grasse, France.
  • Industry challenges: Market saturation, celebrity perfumes, and cost-cutting have diluted quality and reduced sales.
  • Balancing art and profit: Brands struggle to maintain artistry while maximizing profitability, often outsourcing production and altering formulas.

What does Dana Thomas reveal about counterfeiting in the luxury industry in Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster?

  • Scale and impact: Counterfeiting is a massive global problem, costing brands billions and fueling organized crime.
  • Consumer demand for logos: The desire for status symbols drives demand for both real and fake luxury goods, blurring social distinctions.
  • Production and distribution: Counterfeits are made in clandestine workshops, often with poor labor conditions, and distributed through global networks.
  • Legal challenges: Brands invest heavily in legal action, but enforcement is difficult and penalties are often light.

What are the best quotes from Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster by Dana Thomas and what do they mean?

  • “Luxury is a necessity that begins where necessity ends.” — Coco Chanel: Highlights luxury as an indulgence beyond basic needs, rooted in desire and status.
  • “Luxury has lost its luster.” — Dana Thomas: Sums up the book’s thesis that corporatization and democratization have eroded luxury’s original values.
  • “The way I define luxury isn’t by fabric or fiber or the amount of gold bits hanging from it. That’s an old definition. For me, luxury is about pleasing yourself, not dressing for other people.” — Marc Jacobs: Challenges traditional notions of luxury, emphasizing personal satisfaction over conspicuous consumption.
  • Quotes as thematic anchors: These statements encapsulate the book’s critical perspective on the changing meaning of luxury.

Review Summary

3.89 out of 5
Average of 3k+ ratings from Goodreads and Amazon.

Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster explores the transformation of the luxury fashion industry from exclusive craftsmanship to mass-market consumerism. Thomas criticizes how conglomerates have prioritized profits over quality, diluting the essence of luxury. The book offers detailed histories of fashion houses and insights into manufacturing, counterfeiting, and global markets. While some readers found it informative and well-researched, others criticized its length and occasional lack of focus. Overall, it provides a comprehensive look at the changing landscape of luxury goods and their cultural impact.

Your rating:
4.43
30 ratings

About the Author

Dana Thomas is a renowned fashion journalist and author with extensive experience covering the industry. She began her career at The Washington Post and spent 15 years as Newsweek's Paris-based cultural and fashion correspondent. Thomas has written for prestigious publications like The New York Times, The New Yorker, and Vogue. Her books, including the bestseller Deluxe, explore various aspects of the fashion world. Thomas has received recognition for her work, including the Ellis Haller Award and being named a Chevalier of the Order of Arts and Letters by the French Minister of Culture. She resides in Paris.

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