The Ayatollah Begs to Differ

1. Iran's Identity: A Paradox of Pride and Subservience

Despite the negative connotations of a perceptibly hostile Iran, Iranians of a certain age can be forgiven for feeling a tinge of pride in their nation’s rapid ascent to a position of being taken seriously by the world’s greatest superpower, and all in just a little over a quarter of a century.

Historical Subjugation, Modern Pride. Iran, once a proxy of Western powers, now stands as a nation that commands global attention, a source of pride for many Iranians despite the negative perceptions. This newfound prominence, born from the 1979 revolution, has allowed Iran to define its own political system and destiny, a stark contrast to its history of subservience.

• Iran's history of being a proxy of Western powers, specifically Britain and the United States.
• The 1979 revolution as a means of liberation from both autocratic rule and foreign domination.
• The paradox of a nation once considered second-rate now being taken seriously by the world's greatest superpower.

Western Bafflement, Iranian Paradox. Westerners often react to Iran with bafflement, unable to reconcile the seeming contradictions of a nation that is both deeply religious and fiercely independent. This paradox is exemplified by the author's own youthful defense of the Islamic Republic, a secular Iranian celebrating a system that should have been anathema to him.

• The author's experience at Speaker's Corner in London, defending the Islamic Republic as a secular Iranian.
• The story of the Jewish-Iranian friend, Fuad, who chanted "Allah-hu-Akbar!" during the revolution.
• The paradox of Iranians, even those who are not devout Muslims, embracing the Islamic Revolution as a means of self-determination.

"Allah-hu-Akbar!": A Cry of Defiance. The expression "Allah-hu-Akbar!" has become synonymous with Muslim fundamentalism, but in 1979, it was a cry of defiance against an unjust ruler, a symbol of fearlessness in the face of oppression. This expression, deeply rooted in Shia tradition, signifies a rejection of subservience and a desire for self-determination.

• The evolution of "Allah-hu-Akbar!" from a cry of defiance to a symbol of fundamentalism.
• The Shia interpretation of the expression as a sign of fearlessness in confronting injustice.
• The revolution as a means for Iranians to define their own political system and destiny.

2. The Laats and Jahels: Machismo and Street Authority

Every neighborhood has a laat.

Laat: More Than a Hooligan. The "laat" is a complex figure in Iranian culture, often misunderstood as a simple hooligan, but in reality, a figure of street authority and a symbol of working-class ethics. Unlike anarchic hooligans, laats fight only when necessary to establish their authority, and they are often admired for their code of ethics and justice.

• The inaccurate translation of "laat" as "hooligan" and its deeper cultural significance.
• The distinction between the anarchic nature of hooligans and the authority-seeking nature of laats.
• The "jahel," an elevated laat who commands respect and authority in a given urban neighborhood.

Jahels: Street Bosses and Political Pawns. Jahels, the street "bosses," were once prominent figures in Iranian society, involved in various illegal activities but also respected for their code of ethics and justice. They were often used by governments for political purposes, as seen in the 1953 coup when the Shah hired them to suppress pro-Mossadeq demonstrations.

• The jahel's role as a street "boss" involved in illegal and quasi-legal activities.
• The jahel's code of ethics and justice, rooted in Shia Islam.
• The use of jahels and laats by the Shah in the 1953 coup to suppress opposition.

From Street Toughs to Revolutionary Guards. The laats and jahels, despite their seemingly secular ways, were ardent supporters of the Islamic Revolution, believing in its promise of a classless society. However, the clerics who came to power quickly dismantled their authority, replacing them with the komiteh, a paramilitary force that enforced strict Islamic behavior.

• The laats' support for the Islamic Revolution and their belief in a classless society.
• The clerics' dismantling of the jahel's authority and the rise of the komiteh.
• The transformation of laats into members of the Revolutionary Guards and the Basij.

3. The Supreme Leader: Power, Paradox, and Public Perception

The Supreme Leader of the Islamic Revolution, not Republic, is his official title, but in Iran he is known simply as Rahbar, or “Leader.”

Rahbar: A Leader Above the Fray. The Supreme Leader, or Rahbar, is a figure of immense power in Iran, a position created by Ayatollah Khomeini to ensure the longevity of the Islamic state. The Rahbar is both revered and feared, a figure who is removed from public scrutiny and yet wields absolute authority.

• The official title of the Supreme Leader and its implications.
• The concept of velayat-e-faqih and its role in the Islamic Republic.
• The Supreme Leader's position as a "guide" rather than an executive, removed from day-to-day politics.

Balancing Act: Power and Public Opinion. The Supreme Leader carefully balances his power with the cultivation of a public perception that elected presidents are responsible for the ordinary welfare and woes of the people. This allows him to maintain his authority while deflecting blame for any dissatisfaction.

• The Supreme Leader's manipulation of the political system to maintain his authority.
• The use of elected presidents as scapegoats for public dissatisfaction.
• The Supreme Leader's ability to remain above the fray of domestic politics.

The Revolutionary Guards: Protectors of the Velayat-e-Faqih. The Revolutionary Guards, or Sepah, are the military force responsible for protecting the velayat-e-faqih and, by extension, the Supreme Leader. They are a powerful force with significant control over the economy and are fiercely loyal to the Islamic Republic.

• The Revolutionary Guards' role as protectors of the velayat-e-faqih.
• The Guards' involvement in the economy and their influence in Iranian society.
• The Guards' loyalty to the Supreme Leader and their role in maintaining the political system.

4. Qom: The Heart of Shia Islam and Iranian Contradictions

The Ayatollah has a cold.

Qom: A City of Faith and Contradictions. Qom, the religious capital of Iran, is a city where Shia Islam is deeply ingrained in every aspect of life, but it is also a place of contradictions, where traditional practices coexist with modern technology and where religious piety is often intertwined with worldly concerns.

• Qom's status as the religious capital of Iran and a center of Shia learning.
• The presence of both conservative and reformist clerics in Qom.
• The city's blend of traditional practices and modern influences.

Shir'e: A Traditional Escape. The use of shir'e, a potent form of opium, is a common practice in Qom, a traditional escape from the harsh realities of life. This practice, often seen as a contradiction to the strict Islamic values of the city, highlights the complex relationship between faith and human desire.

• The traditional use of shir'e among the working class and its connection to the past.
• The contrast between the seemingly secular nature of shir'e use and the religious environment of Qom.
• The shir'e session as a microcosm of Iranian society, where different classes and beliefs intersect.

Jamkaran: A Place of Hope and Pilgrimage. Jamkaran, a mosque outside of Qom, is a site of pilgrimage for Shias who believe in the imminent return of the Mahdi, the hidden Imam. This site, a place of hope and spiritual solace, is also a reminder of the deep-seated belief in salvation that is central to Shia Islam.

• Jamkaran's significance as a pilgrimage site for Shias.
• The belief in the Mahdi's imminent return and its influence on Shia life.
• The combination of religious devotion and social gathering at Jamkaran.

5. Ta'arouf and Haq: The Dance of Politeness and Rights

“With cotton! So that even the victim doesn’t know his throat’s been cut!”

Ta'arouf: More Than Just Politeness. Ta'arouf, the Persian art of social ritual, is more than just politeness; it is a complex system of social interaction that involves both self-deprecation and exaggerated flattery, often used to gain advantage in social, political, and economic situations.

• The definition of ta'arouf as a complex system of social interaction.
• The use of self-deprecation and exaggerated flattery in ta'arouf.
• The strategic use of ta'arouf to gain advantage in various situations.

Haq: The Pursuit of Rights. The concept of haq, or "rights," is deeply ingrained in the Iranian psyche, and it is often used to justify both individual and collective actions. This concept, rooted in Shia Islam, is a driving force behind the Iranian desire for self-determination and justice.

• The concept of haq as a fundamental aspect of Iranian identity.
• The connection between haq and the Shia belief in justice and martyrdom.
• The use of haq as a justification for both individual and collective actions.

Ahmadinejad: A Master of Ta'arouf and Haq. President Ahmadinejad, despite his often-provocative rhetoric, is a master of both ta'arouf and haq, using them to connect with his supporters and to project an image of strength and independence on the international stage. His style, both sartorial and otherwise, is a signal to the working class that he is still one of them.

• Ahmadinejad's use of ta'arouf to connect with his supporters.
• Ahmadinejad's use of haq to justify his policies and actions.
• Ahmadinejad's style as a signal to the working class that he is still one of them.

6. The Power of Blood: Martyrdom and Shia Identity

“It’s so important.”

Shia Martyrdom: A Central Theme. The concept of martyrdom, particularly the martyrdom of Imam Hossein, is central to Shia identity, shaping their worldview and their understanding of suffering and injustice. This concept is deeply ingrained in the Iranian psyche and is often expressed through public displays of grief and self-flagellation.

• The importance of martyrdom in Shia Islam and its connection to the Imams.
• The role of suffering and injustice in shaping Shia identity.
• The public displays of grief and self-flagellation as expressions of Shia faith.

The Basij: Fearless Suicide Missions. The Basij, a paramilitary force recruited from lower-class neighborhoods, are known for their fearless suicide missions, a reflection of the Shia belief in martyrdom and the willingness to sacrifice oneself for a greater cause. This disregard for one's own well-being is a powerful force in Iranian society.

• The Basij's role as paramilitary protectors of the Islamic Revolution.
• The Basij's fearless suicide missions as a reflection of Shia beliefs.
• The transfer of loyalties from local gangs to Islam and the velayat-e-faqih.

The Blood of Hossein: A Shared Identity. The blood of Hossein, a descendant of the Prophet Mohammad, is a powerful symbol of Shia identity, a shared heritage that transcends class and ethnicity. This shared identity is often expressed through public displays of mourning and a deep sense of collective grief.

• The significance of Hossein's bloodline in Shia identity.
• The shared sense of grief and mourning for Hossein's martyrdom.
• The connection between Shia identity and the concept of sacrifice.

7. Persian Gardens: Private Worlds and Public Faces

Iranians are known to have a public face and a private face, a public life and a private life.

The Persian Garden: A Sanctuary of Privacy. The Persian garden, with its high walls and carefully designed spaces, is a symbol of the Iranian desire for privacy and a separation between public and private life. This concept extends beyond the physical realm and into the social and political spheres.

• The Persian garden as a symbol of privacy and separation between public and private life.
• The use of walls, both literal and figurative, to maintain this separation.
• The importance of the home as a sanctuary from the outside world.

Public vs. Private: A Dichotomy of Behavior. Iranians are known for having a public face and a private face, a public life and a private life, and this dichotomy is a key to understanding their behavior. While they may adhere to strict Islamic rules in public, they often engage in more liberal behavior behind the walls of their homes.

• The distinction between public and private behavior in Iranian society.
• The ability of Iranians to maintain a private life that is often at odds with their public persona.
• The use of "movable walls" to create a sense of privacy in public spaces.

The Enduring Power of Tradition. Despite the influence of Western culture and the strictures of the Islamic Republic, the Persian garden and the values it represents continue to shape Iranian society. This enduring power of tradition is a testament to the resilience of Iranian culture.

• The enduring influence of Persian culture on Iranian society.
• The persistence of traditional values despite the influence of Western culture.
• The importance of the home and family in Iranian life.

8. The Ayatollah Begs to Differ: Dissent and the Future of Iran

“You know, the men at work don’t want me to work when it snows; kam-lotfi meekonand, they’re being discourteous, unkind.”

Dissent Within the System. Despite the seemingly monolithic nature of the Islamic Republic, there are many voices of dissent within the system, including those of reformist clerics who challenge the status quo and advocate for a more liberal interpretation of Islam.

• The presence of dissenting voices within the Islamic Republic.
• The role of reformist clerics in challenging the status quo.
• The importance of dissent in the ongoing evolution of Iranian society.

The Limits of Power: The Supreme Leader's Authority. While the Supreme Leader wields immense power, he is not infallible, and his authority is often challenged by other Ayatollahs and by the people themselves. This tension between power and dissent is a key feature of Iranian politics.

• The limitations of the Supreme Leader's power and authority.
• The role of other Ayatollahs in challenging the Supreme Leader's decisions.
• The importance of public opinion in shaping the political landscape of Iran.

The Future of Iran: A Struggle for Identity. The future of Iran is uncertain, but it is clear that the struggle between tradition and modernity, between conservatism and reform, will continue to shape the nation's destiny. The question of how to reconcile these competing forces will be a defining challenge for Iran in the years to come.

• The ongoing struggle between tradition and modernity in Iran.
• The tension between conservatism and reform in Iranian society.
• The uncertainty surrounding the future of Iran and its political system.

Last updated: January 14, 2025