Trespassing Across America

1. The XL Pipeline: A Symbol of 21st-Century Conflict

So even though the XL’s path would lead me over the Great Plains, the “flyover” states, and what I frankly saw as the middle of nowhere, with the fate of a warming world at stake, I thought of the XL as the center of the universe—and I wanted to be there to learn everything I could about it.

Environmental Battleground. The Keystone XL pipeline embodies the tension between environmental protection and industrial progress. It represents a clash between hopes for a sustainable future and reliance on fossil fuels. The pipeline became a focal point for debates about climate change, energy policy, and corporate responsibility.

Personal Quest for Understanding. The author's journey was driven by a desire to understand the complex issues surrounding the pipeline. He sought to witness firsthand the environmental and social impacts of the project. The walk was a way to engage with the debate on a personal level, moving beyond abstract arguments to real-world experiences.

Symbolic Significance. The XL pipeline transcends its physical presence, becoming a symbol of broader societal challenges. It represents the struggle to balance economic development with environmental stewardship. The author's trek highlights the importance of individual action in addressing these complex issues.

2. Adventure as a Restorative Response to Existential Despair

To those sound in spirit, this trip would likely have been considered unpleasant, but for those in existential despair, such unpleasantness can function as a restorative distraction, a resuscitating shock, a defibrillator charge to the soul.

Escape from Routine. The author's journey was fueled by a desire to break free from the monotony of daily life. The hike offered an escape from the confines of routine and a chance to experience the world in a more direct and meaningful way. The author sought to disrupt the "routine masquerading as life."

Confronting the Wilderness. The challenges of the journey, including physical hardship and encounters with the unknown, served as a "defibrillator charge to the soul." By confronting the unforgiving wilderness, the author found a renewed sense of purpose and vitality. The author found "the jolt of a raw encounter with an unforgiving wilderness."

Existential Purpose. The act of walking, powered by food and water rather than fossil fuels, provided a sense of connection to the natural world. The journey transformed the author from a "job title" into a "human being," reminding him of the grand vistas of possibility that lie beyond the routine. The author sought to be "less a job title and more a human being."

3. Hitchhiking: Encounters with America's Diverse Voices

Whatever trials and triumphs that lie ahead are unknown. What will I see? Whom will I meet? Who will I be by the time I reach the end?

Chance Encounters. Hitchhiking provided the author with a unique opportunity to connect with people from all walks of life. Each ride offered a glimpse into different perspectives, beliefs, and experiences. The author met oil workers, farmers, veterans, and travelers, each with their own story to tell.

Political Divides. The author's encounters often revealed deep political divisions within American society. Conversations about President Obama and the Keystone XL pipeline sparked heated debates and exposed underlying tensions. The author experienced "hatred, which was rooted in something else entirely."

Human Connection. Despite their differences, the people the author met often displayed kindness and generosity. Drivers offered rides, shared meals, and provided valuable insights into the regions they called home. The author found "something admirably wholesome about their unthinking diligence."

4. The Tar Sands: Witnessing Environmental Devastation

At worst, the scene was a war zone, the ground zero of some horrific city-destroying bomb. At best, it was a futuristic moon colony where imported laborers operated giant machinery, worked slave hours, and remorselessly plundered a place to which they have no emotional connection.

Industrial Squalor. The tar sands of Alberta presented a stark contrast to the natural beauty of the surrounding landscape. The author witnessed vast open-pit mines, toxic tailings ponds, and sprawling industrial facilities. The author saw "the industrial squalor, the depraved lifestyles, the sad, empty eyes of the workers."

Ecological Destruction. The extraction of bitumen from the tar sands requires the razing of forests, the pollution of water, and the consumption of vast amounts of energy. The author observed the "willful desecration of a whole ecozone carried out by an enlightened world power." The author saw "a lifeless gray sea of sludge, the liquid residue of the bitumen-to-oil refining process."

Moral Indignation. The author's experience in the tar sands sparked a sense of moral outrage. He questioned the ethics of prioritizing economic gain over environmental sustainability. The author felt "that we shouldn’t be there. That this place was meant to be still and silent, unbothered and undeveloped."

5. Trespassing: Navigating Fear and Moral Justification

But in addition to panic, I felt something else: the jolt of a raw encounter with an unforgiving wilderness, the exuberance of having a firsthand experience with the world, a wild gush of emotions that made me feel, though scared and panicky, overflowing with life.

Forbidden Lands. Trespassing became a necessary part of the author's journey, allowing him to follow the path of the Keystone XL across private property. The act of trespassing brought him face-to-face with the realities of land ownership and the limitations on public access. The author had to "sneak through. We’d have to trespass."

Animal Encounters. Trespassing also brought the author into close proximity with wildlife, including cows, moose, and coyotes. These encounters often sparked fear and required quick thinking to avoid danger. The author had to "talk to 'um manly" to the bulls.

Moral Justification. The author justified his trespassing by framing it as an act of civil disobedience. He believed that the potential environmental consequences of the Keystone XL outweighed the importance of respecting private property rights. The author wanted to be "scared, nervous, and panicky as we trespassed across forbidden lands."

6. The Great Plains: A History Etched in Grass and Sky

I wasn’t walking across private property; I was walking through an undesignated national park. I was walking across the Heartland—a region most Americans don’t think about but that’s a part of us all: It feeds us, irrigates us, powers our cars and planes, and bears some of the best and worst of our history as a people.

Geological and Ecological Transformation. The Great Plains have undergone dramatic changes over millions of years, from ancient seas to lush forests to vast grasslands. The author learned about the region's rich geological history and the evolution of its unique ecosystem. The plains were "a giant dustbin that collected all the erosion from the newly formed and hardly tidy Rockies."

Native American Heritage. The author explored the history of Native American tribes who have inhabited the Great Plains for thousands of years. He learned about their nomadic lifestyles, their relationship with the buffalo, and their tragic displacement by European settlers. The Inuit "lived and died here for thousands of years, leaving not the slightest blemish on the land."

Agricultural Transformation. The arrival of European settlers brought about a dramatic transformation of the Great Plains landscape. The author examined the impact of farming, ranching, and industrial agriculture on the region's environment and its people. The plains are "unquestionably our breadbasket even if the basket is oozing over with goopy corn syrup."

7. Kindness Amidst Hardship: The Unexpected Generosity of Strangers

I was equal parts disturbed by and admiring of Liam’s composure. How was he not nervous?

Unexpected Encounters. The author's journey was marked by numerous acts of kindness from strangers. People offered food, water, shelter, and companionship, often with no expectation of anything in return. The author was "heartwarmed by the kindness of strangers."

Breaking Down Barriers. These encounters challenged the author's preconceived notions about people and places. He discovered that even in remote and seemingly desolate areas, there was a deep well of human compassion. The author felt "hopeful that I could rely on the goodwill of others in the future if my body chose not to cooperate again."

Restoring Faith. The generosity of strangers helped to restore the author's faith in humanity. He realized that even in a world often characterized by division and conflict, there was still a capacity for empathy and connection. The author felt "a rare sense of kinship as I, too, was hunkered down, hiding, and scared for my life."

8. The Allure and Peril of Human Connection on a Lonely Road

To travel alone is to force yourself to depend on others. It is to fall in love with mankind.

The Power of Partnership. The author's brief time hiking with Rick Hammond highlighted the benefits of companionship on a long journey. Having a partner provided emotional support, shared responsibility, and a sense of camaraderie. The author felt "the curious and sharp pang of loneliness" after Rick left.

The Risk of Vulnerability. Forming connections with others also carried the risk of disappointment and loss. The author experienced the pain of separation when Rick had to end his hike. The author had to "depend on others."

The Importance of Trust. Despite the potential for heartbreak, the author recognized the importance of opening himself up to human connection. He learned to trust his instincts and to rely on the kindness of strangers. The author had to "force yourself to depend on others."

9. Confronting Climate Change Denial: A Clash of Values

If you start talking to people out here about the environment, they’ll punch you. They’ll get violent. They’re here to make money. The people here are the worst sort.

Divergent Perspectives. The author's conversations with people along the Keystone XL route often revealed a deep divide over climate change. Many residents expressed skepticism about the science and prioritized economic interests over environmental concerns. The author had to "swallow my objections and listen politely."

Economic Realities. The author recognized that for many people in the Great Plains, the oil industry represented a source of jobs and economic security. He acknowledged the challenges of advocating for environmental protection in communities dependent on fossil fuels. The author had to "make a living, too."

The Limits of Persuasion. The author's attempts to engage in meaningful dialogue about climate change were often met with resistance and hostility. He realized the difficulty of bridging the gap between his values and those of people with different life experiences. The author felt "that their amorality on the health of the environment is okay, but it does at least make their contemptuous position comprehensible."

10. The Power of Walking: A Journey of Physical and Mental Endurance

On a hike, the days pass with the wind, the sun, the stars; movement is powered by a belly of food and water, not a noxious tankful of fossil fuels. On a hike, you’re less a job title and more a human being.

Physical Transformation. The author's journey was a testament to the power of the human body. Despite initial setbacks and injuries, he gradually adapted to the physical demands of walking long distances. The author's "ass, once a sturdy hockey-player’s hillock of meat and muscle, had, over the years, turned into a pale downward-leaning sack of fat."

Mental Clarity. The act of walking provided the author with a space for reflection and introspection. He used the time to process his thoughts, confront his fears, and gain a deeper understanding of himself and the world around him. The author wanted to "get closer to understanding the world for what it is."

Spiritual Connection. The author's journey fostered a sense of connection to the natural world. He found beauty and wonder in the vast landscapes of the Great Plains. The author felt "overflowing with life."

11. The Shifting Sands of Hope and Despair on the American Plains

We’ll make a mess of the area for a few decades, then leave the corrugated mess to the cold and wind forever after. And we are not real inhabitants—just suckerfish along for the ride, desperately clinging to the belly of the great oil-filled beast.

The Cycle of Boom and Bust. The author witnessed the boom-and-bust cycles that have characterized the Great Plains economy. He observed the rise and fall of towns dependent on agriculture and the oil industry. The author saw "the industrial squalor, the depraved lifestyles, the sad, empty eyes of the workers."

The Illusion of Progress. The author questioned the notion of progress that prioritizes economic growth over environmental sustainability. He challenged the idea that technological advancements and increased consumption necessarily lead to a better future. The author felt "that we shouldn’t be there. That this place was meant to be still and silent, unbothered and undeveloped."

The Search for Meaning. The author's journey was ultimately a search for meaning and purpose in a world facing complex challenges. He sought to find a way to reconcile his personal values with the realities of a society dependent on fossil fuels. The author wanted to "get closer to understanding the world for what it is."

Last updated: March 8, 2025