Yes, Chef

1. From Ethiopian Orphan to Swedish Chef: A Journey of Adoption and Identity

I have never seen a picture of my mother.

Early life in Ethiopia. Marcus Samuelsson was born Kassahun Tsegie in Ethiopia in 1971. At age two, he contracted tuberculosis along with his mother and sister. His mother walked them 75 miles to a hospital in Addis Ababa, where she died but the children survived. They were adopted by a Swedish couple, Lennart and Anne Marie Samuelsson.

Adaptation to Sweden. Growing up in Göteborg, Marcus embraced Swedish culture while also facing occasional racial prejudice. His adoptive parents fostered his connection to his Ethiopian heritage through music and encouragement. This dual identity would later influence his culinary style and career choices.

2. Culinary Education: Learning from Grandmother's Kitchen to European Fine Dining

Everything had a purpose and a destination.

Early culinary influences. Marcus's Swedish grandmother, Helga, was his first culinary mentor. She taught him the importance of using every part of an ingredient and the value of traditional techniques. This foundation would shape his approach to cooking throughout his career.

Professional training. Marcus's formal culinary education began at the Culinary Institute in Göteborg. He then worked his way through prestigious kitchens in Switzerland and France, including:

• Victoria Jungfrau in Interlaken
• Georges Blanc in Vonnas

These experiences honed his technical skills and exposed him to the highest levels of fine dining, while also revealing the often brutal and hierarchical nature of professional kitchens.

3. Breaking into New York's Competitive Restaurant Scene

I locked my smile in place as I babbled through a meaningless observation or two.

Arrival in New York. In 1994, at age 24, Marcus arrived in New York with $300 and a job at the Swedish restaurant Aquavit. Despite his European training, he faced challenges adapting to the fast-paced New York kitchen environment.

Rising through the ranks. Through hard work and innovation, Marcus quickly rose from line cook to executive chef at Aquavit. His breakthrough came when:

• He became executive chef at age 24
• The restaurant received a three-star review from The New York Times
• He won the James Beard Foundation's "Rising Star Chef" award in 1999

This rapid ascent established Marcus as a rising star in the culinary world, but also brought immense pressure and expectations.

4. Developing a Unique Culinary Voice: Blending African, Swedish, and Global Flavors

I was interested in chasing flavors.

Culinary exploration. Marcus's unique background and extensive travel allowed him to develop a distinctive culinary style. He incorporated:

• Ethiopian spices and techniques
• Swedish traditions and ingredients
• Global flavors from his travels and New York's diverse food scene

Signature dishes. Marcus became known for innovative dishes that reflected his multicultural perspective, such as:

• Foie gras ganache with lingonberries
• Gravlax with sweet mustard sauce and Ethiopian berbere spice
• Duck with Ethiopian honey wine (tej)

These creations set him apart in the New York restaurant scene and established his reputation for creative, globally-inspired cuisine.

5. Navigating Race and Representation in the Culinary World

There are more black men and women who are partners at law firms than black men and women who are executive chefs at the top restaurants in this country.

Breaking barriers. As one of the few high-profile Black chefs in fine dining, Marcus faced unique challenges and opportunities. He often felt pressure to represent not just himself, but his race in the culinary world.

Mentorship and inclusion. Marcus made a conscious effort to mentor young chefs of color and create opportunities for them in his kitchens. He recognized the importance of diversity in the culinary world and worked to open doors for others as he had been given opportunities.

Cultural ambassador. Marcus used his platform to introduce African flavors and culinary traditions to a wider audience, challenging stereotypes and expanding the definition of fine dining.

6. Building and Losing Aquavit: The Challenges of Restaurant Ownership

I emptied my bank account to Håkan and I bought the rights back to "Marcus Samuelsson" because it's the name that people know and it's a name people remember.

Partnership and success. Marcus's partnership with Håkan Swahn at Aquavit brought tremendous success, including:

• Multiple James Beard awards
• Expansion to international locations
• Establishment of Marcus as a celebrity chef

Legal and financial challenges. The partnership eventually soured, leading to a difficult separation. Marcus had to:

• Buy out his stake in the restaurant
• Purchase the rights to use his own name professionally
• Start over financially and professionally at the height of his career

This experience taught Marcus valuable lessons about business partnerships and the importance of maintaining control over one's brand and identity.

7. Reconnecting with Ethiopian Roots and Family

I realized that meeting my daughter was not at all like orchestrating the perfect restaurant meal. All I needed to do was give Zoe what my father had given me: my own flawed self, without excuses or promises.

Rediscovering heritage. In his late twenties, Marcus traveled to Ethiopia to explore his roots. He:

• Met his biological father and siblings
• Learned about Ethiopian cuisine and culture
• Began incorporating these influences into his cooking

Family relationships. Marcus's reconnection with his Ethiopian family was complex. He grappled with:

• Cultural differences and expectations
• Guilt over his privileged life compared to his siblings
• Desire to help financially while respecting local customs and values

This journey of rediscovery deeply influenced Marcus's personal life and professional work, leading to his cookbook "The Soul of a New Cuisine" and shaping his approach to African-inspired cooking.

8. Balancing Personal Life and Professional Ambitions

I never had my guard up as a chef. When I debuted at Aquavit, I was twenty-four. So for me, doing the cooking and being known as a chef were the same.

Personal sacrifices. Marcus's single-minded focus on his career often came at the expense of personal relationships. Key examples include:

• Missing his father's funeral due to work commitments
• Being absent from his daughter Zoe's life for her first 14 years
• Postponing marriage and family life until his late thirties

Finding balance. Later in life, Marcus made efforts to reconcile his personal and professional lives:

• Reconnecting with his daughter Zoe
• Marrying Maya Haile and starting a family
• Incorporating family and community into his restaurant concepts

This shift in priorities reflected Marcus's evolving understanding of success and fulfillment beyond just culinary accolades.

9. Creating Red Rooster: A Love Letter to Harlem and Its Culinary Heritage

If I make only one contribution in this city, I hope it's to help change the footprint of dining.

Vision for Harlem. After leaving Aquavit, Marcus focused on opening Red Rooster in Harlem. His goals were to:

• Celebrate Harlem's rich cultural and culinary history
• Create a neighborhood restaurant that welcomed locals and tourists alike
• Prove that fine dining could thrive in underserved communities

Community impact. Red Rooster became more than just a restaurant. It served as:

• An economic engine for the neighborhood, employing local residents
• A cultural hub, hosting events and showcasing local artists
• A symbol of Harlem's renaissance and potential

The success of Red Rooster validated Marcus's belief in the power of food to transform communities and challenge preconceptions about race and cuisine.

10. Cooking for the White House: Recognition on the National Stage

When Sam Kass and the White House team approached me, I was—professionally speaking—a car running on fumes, every cylinder of my being powered on hunger and hope.

A pivotal opportunity. In 2009, Marcus was selected to create the menu for President Obama's first state dinner, honoring the Prime Minister of India. This came at a crucial time:

• He had recently left Aquavit and was between restaurants
• He was competing on Top Chef Masters for visibility
• He was planning Red Rooster but lacked financing

Professional validation. The White House dinner represented:

• Recognition of Marcus's culinary skill at the highest level
• An opportunity to showcase his unique culinary perspective
• A turning point in his career, leading to new opportunities and partnerships

This honor not only boosted Marcus's profile but also affirmed his place as one of America's leading chefs, regardless of race or background.

Last updated: December 4, 2024