Consumed

1. Fashion's Roots: Colonialism and Exploitation

“When I think about colonialism in the fashion industry… they literally are taking our resources from our lands, selling it back to us and burying garbage next to us; it’s colonialism at its finest.”

Historical context. The modern fashion industry is deeply rooted in colonialism, where powerful nations extracted resources and labor from colonized countries. This legacy continues today, with many garment factories located in countries that were once under colonial rule. This system perpetuates a cycle of exploitation, where resources are taken, labor is underpaid, and waste is often dumped back into the same communities.

Resource extraction. Countries in the Global South, often referred to as "developing," are rich in resources like cotton, minerals, and labor. However, these resources are often extracted by companies in the Global North, leaving the local economies fragile and open to exploitation. This extraction is not just about materials; it also includes the exploitation of labor, with garment workers often facing unsafe conditions and low wages.

Cultural imposition. Colonialism also imposed new cultural norms, including Western styles of dress, which led to a demand for foreign clothing in colonized countries. This demand undermined local textile industries and created a dependency on imported goods, further perpetuating the cycle of exploitation. The legacy of colonialism is not just historical; it is a living system that continues to shape the fashion industry today.

2. Global Wealth Disparity: The True Cost of Cheap Clothes

“Every consumer has the right to know who produces their clothing and under what conditions, whether it be labor conditions or environmental, just like the ingredients written on the food packaging that you buy.”

Unequal distribution. The fashion industry is characterized by a vast disparity in wealth, with the majority of profits going to a small number of corporations in the Global North, while garment workers in the Global South earn poverty wages. This inequality is not accidental; it is a result of a system that prioritizes profit over people. The current minimum wage in many garment-producing countries is shockingly low, often less than $200 a month.

Consumer privilege. Many consumers in the Global North, even those who consider themselves "poor," have a level of economic privilege that is unimaginable to garment workers. This privilege allows them to buy cheap clothes, often without considering the human cost. The idea that "I shop fast fashion because I'm poor" is a fallacy, as many who buy fast fashion are not truly poor but rather caught in a cycle of overconsumption.

Systemic poverty. The low wages paid to garment workers are not just a matter of individual companies; they are a result of a systemic problem that keeps people in poverty. This system is designed to extract maximum profit from labor, with little regard for the well-being of workers. The cycle of poverty is perpetuated by the lack of fair wages, unsafe working conditions, and limited opportunities for advancement.

3. Fast Fashion's Cycle: Overproduction and Waste

“The pace of the market mirrors the pace of fast fashion production and retail in the Global North.”

Hyper-consumption. Fast fashion is built on a model of overproduction and overconsumption, with new styles constantly being introduced to encourage consumers to buy more. This cycle of constant consumption leads to massive amounts of textile waste, as clothes are often discarded after only a few wears. The industry's focus on speed and low prices has created a culture of disposability, where clothes are treated as temporary items rather than valuable goods.

The race to the bottom. To keep prices low, fast fashion brands engage in a "race to the bottom," pressuring factories to produce more for less. This pressure often leads to unsafe working conditions, low wages, and the exploitation of garment workers. The system of outsourcing and subcontracting makes it difficult to track the supply chain and ensure ethical practices.

Environmental impact. The fast fashion industry is a major contributor to environmental problems, including water pollution, carbon emissions, and textile waste. The production of synthetic fibers, which are derived from fossil fuels, contributes to climate change, while the dyeing and finishing processes often release toxic chemicals into waterways. The sheer volume of clothing produced and discarded creates a massive waste problem, with much of it ending up in landfills or being shipped to the Global South.

4. The Consumer's Role: Breaking the Cycle of Want

“Every year, month, day, and even hour that you choose not to do these things, you are willingly turning away from the problem you have created and profited almightily from.”

Shifting mindset. Consumers have a crucial role to play in breaking the cycle of fast fashion. This requires a shift in mindset from a culture of constant consumption to one of conscious choices. It means questioning the urge to buy new clothes and instead focusing on the value of what we already own. The first step is to recognize that we are not just consumers but also citizens with the power to demand change.

Mindful consumption. Mindful consumption involves making deliberate choices about what we buy, considering the environmental and social impact of our purchases. It means asking questions about where our clothes come from, who made them, and under what conditions. It also means prioritizing quality over quantity, choosing durable items that will last longer.

Separating needs from wants. A key aspect of breaking the cycle of want is to distinguish between our needs and our wants. Often, we buy things not because we need them but because we are driven by emotions, insecurities, or the desire to keep up with trends. By becoming more aware of these triggers, we can make more conscious choices about what we buy.

5. Beyond the Binary: Inclusivity and Representation

“If your feminism is intersectional, then you should be including everyone in it: men, women, trans people, non-binary people, and every gender.”

Challenging norms. The fashion industry often reinforces harmful gender norms and excludes people who do not fit neatly into the binary of male and female. This exclusion is not just about clothing; it also affects how people are represented in advertising and media. The gender binary is a social construct that limits self-expression and perpetuates inequality.

Inclusivity matters. An inclusive fashion industry is one that celebrates diversity in all its forms, including gender, race, size, and ability. It means creating clothing that is accessible to everyone and representing people from all walks of life in advertising and media. Inclusivity is not just about being politically correct; it is about creating a more just and equitable world.

Beyond tokenism. True inclusivity goes beyond tokenism, which is the practice of including a few marginalized people to give the appearance of diversity. It requires a fundamental shift in power, with marginalized people having a seat at the table and being involved in decision-making processes. It also means challenging the systems that perpetuate inequality and creating space for all voices to be heard.

6. Cultural Appropriation: Respect, Not Exploitation

“The notion that someone automatically wants and needs something that you have thoroughly used is wrapped up in the narrative of white saviorism.”

Understanding the harm. Cultural appropriation is the adoption or use of elements of a minority culture by members of the dominant culture, often without understanding or respecting their original context. This practice can be harmful because it often trivializes or commodifies cultural traditions, while also perpetuating stereotypes and erasing the contributions of marginalized communities. It is not about appreciating another culture; it is about taking something that is not yours and using it for your own gain.

Power dynamics. Cultural appropriation is often rooted in power dynamics, where the dominant culture takes from the marginalized without giving back. This can be seen in the fashion industry, where designers often borrow from Indigenous or Black cultures without acknowledging their origins or giving credit to the creators. The act of taking without giving back is a form of exploitation.

Respectful engagement. Instead of appropriating, we should strive to engage with other cultures in a respectful and meaningful way. This means learning about the history and significance of cultural traditions, giving credit to the creators, and supporting businesses and artists from marginalized communities. It also means being mindful of the power dynamics at play and avoiding practices that perpetuate inequality.

7. The Power of Collective Action: Demanding Change

“If each of us made a decision to take just one positive action to support the growth of one artisan, worker, or designer from a marginalized community, we would transform the industry as we know it.”

Individual impact. While individual actions may seem small, they can have a significant impact when combined with collective action. By making conscious choices about what we buy, we can send a message to brands that we care about ethical and sustainable practices. Our individual choices, when multiplied by millions, can create a powerful force for change.

Amplifying voices. Collective action also involves amplifying the voices of those who are most affected by the fashion industry, including garment workers and marginalized communities. This means supporting organizations that advocate for workers' rights and sharing their stories with others. It also means challenging the dominant narratives that perpetuate inequality and creating space for diverse perspectives.

Systemic change. Ultimately, real change requires systemic reform, including government regulation and corporate accountability. This means advocating for policies that protect workers' rights, promote environmental sustainability, and hold corporations accountable for their actions. It also means challenging the power structures that perpetuate inequality and creating a more just and equitable system.

8. Shifting Habits: From Consumption to Conscious Choices

“The biggest dealbreaker of all is healthcare, in my humble opinion. The National Health Service in the UK allows you to chase your dreams in a way that many aren’t afforded in the US, ever.”

Breaking the cycle. Shifting from a culture of consumption to one of conscious choices requires breaking the cycle of habitual buying. This means becoming more aware of our triggers for shopping, such as emotions, insecurities, or the desire to keep up with trends. It also means finding alternative ways to meet our needs, such as borrowing, swapping, or repairing clothes.

Mindful spending. Mindful spending involves making deliberate choices about what we buy, considering the environmental and social impact of our purchases. It means prioritizing quality over quantity, choosing durable items that will last longer, and supporting businesses that align with our values. It also means being aware of the marketing tactics that are designed to encourage us to buy more.

Long-term perspective. Shifting habits is not a quick fix; it is a long-term process that requires patience and persistence. It means being kind to ourselves when we slip up and focusing on progress rather than perfection. It also means celebrating small wins and recognizing that every conscious choice we make is a step in the right direction.

9. The Myth of Ethical Consumption: Systemic Change Needed

“We cannot allow circularity to end up as another greenwasher marketing ploy.”

Limitations of individual action. While individual choices are important, they are not enough to solve the systemic problems of the fashion industry. The idea that we can "shop our way to sustainability" is a myth, as the industry is designed to perpetuate overconsumption and exploitation. True change requires systemic reform, including government regulation and corporate accountability.

Greenwashing tactics. Many brands engage in greenwashing, using marketing tactics to give the appearance of sustainability without making meaningful changes to their practices. This can include using vague terms like "eco-friendly" or "sustainable" without providing concrete evidence or focusing on small changes while ignoring larger issues. It is important to be critical of these claims and to look for brands that are truly committed to ethical and sustainable practices.

Systemic solutions. Real change requires systemic solutions, such as government regulation, corporate accountability, and a shift in the economic model that prioritizes profit over people and the planet. This means advocating for policies that protect workers' rights, promote environmental sustainability, and hold corporations accountable for their actions. It also means challenging the power structures that perpetuate inequality and creating a more just and equitable system.

10. Kantamanto Market: A Mirror to Our Wasteful Habits

“The global secondhand trade is part of the colonial business model, where the corporate entity is the colonizer and everyone else is the colony.”

A global hub. Kantamanto Market in Accra, Ghana, is the world's largest secondhand market, receiving millions of garments each week from the Global North. This market serves as a mirror to our wasteful habits, highlighting the sheer volume of clothing that is discarded and the environmental and social consequences of our consumption. It is a place where the excess of the Global North becomes a problem for the Global South.

A complex system. Kantamanto is not just a dumping ground; it is a complex system with its own economy and culture. The market provides livelihoods for thousands of people, including retailers, tailors, and upcyclers. However, it also faces challenges, including the low quality of many of the garments, the high levels of waste, and the debt that many retailers face.

A call for change. Kantamanto serves as a call for change, urging us to rethink our relationship with clothing and to take responsibility for the waste we create. It highlights the need for a more circular economy, where clothes are designed to last longer, are easily repaired and recycled, and are not treated as disposable items. It also calls for a more equitable system, where the burden of waste is not placed on the shoulders of those who are already marginalized.

Last updated: February 3, 2025