Cooking with Nonna

1. Cooking is a Legacy of Food and Family.

This book is a testament that a meal is more than just food on dishes. It can be a piece of your family’s legacy.

Preserving tradition. The author's journey began with a desire to preserve her Nonna Romana's tattered recipes, realizing they were more than just instructions; they were family history. These recipes told stories of what, why, and how the family ate, reflecting their life, palate, and the food available at the time. The book aims to help others preserve their own traditions through the food of their mothers and grandmothers.

More than sustenance. Food in Italian culture, especially for nonne, is deeply intertwined with love, family gatherings, and identity. Sunday dinners are central events, bringing generations together around a table overflowing with dishes prepared with care. The act of cooking and sharing food becomes a powerful way to express affection and ensure that family bonds remain strong.

Culinary heroines. Nonne are often the unsung heroines of the food world, possessing extraordinary skills and modesty. Their cooking, honed over decades of necessity and love, serves as the foundation for many renowned chefs. Their contributions are timeless, proving that women, like the best ingredients, have no expiration date in the culinary arts.

2. Nonna's Kitchen Philosophy: Simple Tools, Fresh Ingredients.

basta che funziona (whatever works!)

Practical tools. Nonna's kitchen prioritizes functionality over fancy gadgets. Everyday objects are often repurposed as useful tools, reflecting a resourceful and pragmatic approach to cooking. The goal is to get the job done effectively, not to have the most expensive equipment.

Essential nonna tools:

• The Nonna Knife: Inexpensive, small serrated knives for peeling and cutting.
• Rolling pin: Can be anything from a chair leg to a wine bottle.
• Wooden board: Sturdy surface for doughs, ideally with a raised edge.
• Good wooden spoon: Cured over years of stirring sauces.
• Ravioli cutter: For decorative edges and sealing doughs.
• Pasta roller: Manual or electric, for rolling and cutting pasta sheets.
• Chitarra: Wooden box with strings for cutting long pasta.
• Mortar and pestle: For grinding ingredients and releasing aromas.
• Measuring cups: Often personal, non-standard systems (like espresso cups).
• Kitchen scale: For more accurate measurement by weight.
• Microplane: For fine grating of cheese and garlic.
• Storage containers: Plastic containers are "nonna gold" for leftovers.

Fresh is best. While dried spices have their place, nonne emphasize using fresh ingredients whenever possible. Garlic, parsley, onions, and basil are preferred fresh to maximize flavor. Stocking a pantry with staples like olive oil (extra virgin for raw use, regular for frying), canned tomatoes, dried beans, pasta, rice, and bouillon cubes ensures readiness for any meal.

3. Mastering Basic Pasta Doughs is Achievable.

The most important thing to remember about making fresh pasta is that you literally can’t mess it up!

Practice makes perfect. Making fresh pasta dough can seem intimidating, but it's a skill that improves with practice. The dough might look messy initially, but it's forgiving; too dry can be fixed with water, too wet with flour or semolina. Decades of experience lie behind every nonna's effortless technique.

Two main types: The book highlights two fundamental pasta doughs:

• Semolina Pasta Dough (Southern Italy): Uses refined semolina flour, resulting in a firmer dough with more bite, best for short cuts like orecchiette, cavatelli, and maccheroni.
• Egg Pasta Dough (Northern Italy): Uses 00 or all-purpose flour and eggs, producing a tender pasta with a delicate flavor, ideal for longer cuts like pappardelle, tagliatelle, spaghetti, and filled pastas.

Hand vs. machine. Both doughs can be made by hand or with a stand mixer. Rolling out can be done with a rolling pin or a pasta roller machine. Specific techniques are described for shaping various pasta types like cavatelli, capunti, orecchiette, and maccheroni by hand. Fresh pasta cooks quickly (1-6 minutes) and can be dried or frozen for later use.

4. Essential Sauces Form the Flavor Foundation.

To Italians, a marinara sauce is as personal as a fingerprint.

Personal touch. Basic sauces are the backbone of Italian cooking, and each nonna has her own unique combination of ingredients and techniques. These sauces, while simple, are deeply personal and reflect regional traditions and individual preferences. They are designed to highlight the quality of the main ingredients, like tomatoes or meat.

Key basic sauces: The book features recipes for several fundamental sauces:

• Marinara Sauce: A simple, quick sauce focusing on the flavor of canned tomatoes, garlic, onion, and basil. Cooked briefly to preserve freshness.
• Bolognese Sauce: A hearty meat sauce from Emilia Romagna, using a mix of meats simmered with less tomato than expected, typically served with thick egg pasta.
• White Sauce (Besciamella): A creamy, velvety sauce common in Northern Italy, used as a base for baked pastas like lasagna and vegetarian dishes.
• Basil Pesto: A quick, flavorful sauce from Liguria, made with basil, cheeses, garlic, pine nuts, and olive oil, versatile for pasta or bread.

Versatility and storage. These basic sauces are versatile and can be made ahead of time. Marinara and Bolognese can be refrigerated for about a week or frozen for longer storage. Besciamella can be covered with plastic wrap directly on the surface to prevent a skin and thinned with milk if needed. Pesto can be stored in a jar covered with a layer of oil.

5. Appetizers & Sides: Humble Ingredients, Impressive Results.

Fried zucchini blossoms are a mouthwatering, seasonal treat.

Simple elegance. Italian appetizers (antipasti) and sides (contorni) often transform humble, seasonal ingredients into flavorful and impressive dishes. These recipes showcase resourcefulness and the ability to make delicious food without extravagance, often rooted in the concept of cucina povera (poor people's cooking).

Examples from the book:

• Battered Zucchini Blossoms: Seasonal treat, often stuffed with mozzarella and capers.
• Peppers and Eggs: A quick, flavorful Italian-American classic.
• Sicilian Chickpea Fritters (Panelle): Famous street food, simple chickpea flour and water fried.
• Baked Mussels (Cozze con Battuto): Quick, inexpensive, and impressive, baked with a savory bread crumb mixture.
• Potato Croquettes: Versatile, fried mashed potato rolls, often with meat or cheese filling.
• Zucchini Pie / Artichoke Pie: Savory bakes using abundant vegetables, perfect as appetizers or sides.
• Stuffed Mushrooms: Stove-top dish with a cheesy bread crumb filling simmered in sauce.
• Eggplant Purses (Melanzane alla Tabacchiera): Stuffed eggplant pockets with a savory-sweet filling.
• Fried Calamari: Lightly coated in semolina for a delicate crunch.

Seasonal and resourceful. Many of these dishes originated from using whatever was plentiful or leftover. Artichoke pie was a main course when artichokes were abundant, and cold bread salad (cialledda) used stale bread. This focus on seasonality and minimizing waste is a hallmark of nonna cooking.

6. Soups & Salads: Comfort, Tradition, and Seasonal Bounty.

Many who grew up on this soup would agree that pastina has healing powers.

Soul-warming comfort. Soups and salads in Italian cooking are often deeply comforting and tied to specific traditions or times of year. They can range from simple broths to hearty, vegetable-laden meals, reflecting regional ingredients and the desire to nourish the family.

Featured soups and salads:

• Escarole Soup with Tiny Meatballs: A comforting "wedding soup" with greens, vegetables, and small meatballs in broth.
• Pasta e Fagioli Soup: Humble, simple pasta and bean soup, often made with slow-simmered cannellini beans.
• Stelline Pastina with Parmigiano: A simple, healing soup of tiny pasta in bouillon, often considered Italian penicillin.
• Minestrone: A vegetable soup where ingredients change seasonally, often cooked with minimal water to create a rich vegetable broth.
• Beef Broth Soup with Cut Spaghetti: Traditionally eaten on Saturday nights, made with beef short ribs cooked low and slow.
• Tuscan Cabbage Soup (Zuppa di Verza): Hearty soup with savoy cabbage, sausage, and pancetta, served over crusty bread.
• Cucuzza Squash Soup: Sicilian soup with cucuzza squash and pasta, often finished with a quick tomato sauce.
• Chicken Soup with Orzo: A simple, soul-warming chicken soup, often made with small pasta.
• Cold Bread Salad (Cialledda): Summer salad using stale bread soaked in dressing with vegetables.
• Arugula and Fennel Salad: Elegant Tuscan salad with assertive flavors and crunchy almonds.
• Mozzarella with Broccoli Rabe and Sun-Dried Tomatoes (Mozzarella alla Barese): A Pugliese twist on Caprese, mixing creamy mozzarella with bitter greens and tangy tomatoes.

Simplicity and flavor. Many of these dishes rely on the natural flavors of fresh or readily available ingredients. The "magic" often comes from simple techniques like slow simmering, boiling vegetables and pasta together, or marinating ingredients to intensify their taste.

7. Pasta & First Courses: The Heart of the Italian Meal.

A big bowl of spaghetti and meatballs isn’t just delicious, it’s iconic.

Central to the table. Pasta dishes and other first courses (primi) are often the centerpiece of Italian family meals, especially on Sundays and holidays. They showcase regional specialties and the nonna's skill in combining pasta shapes with complementary sauces and ingredients.

Diverse pasta dishes: The book presents a wide array of pasta and primi recipes:

• Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe: Iconic Pugliese dish, pasta and greens boiled together and sautéed with garlic, oil, and anchovies.
• Four-Cheese Lasagna: Rich baked pasta with layers of cheese and meat sauce.
• Maccheroni and Orecchiette with Tiny Meatballs (Maritati con Polpettine): Mix of pasta shapes with tiny fried meatballs in tomato sauce.
• Rigatoni with Fried Eggplant (Rigatoni alla Norma): Sicilian classic with fried eggplant in a light tomato sauce, topped with ricotta salata.
• Baked Ziti (Pasta al Forno): Classic comfort food, ziti baked with meat sauce and mozzarella.
• Spaghetti with Meatballs: Iconic dish with slow-cooked meatballs in Sunday sauce.
• Rigatoni Carbonara: Quick, rich Roman dish with eggs, cheese, pancetta, and black pepper.
• Bucatini with Cauliflower (Bucatini Chi Vruocculi Arriminati): Sicilian dish with cauliflower, currants, pine nuts, and anchovies.
• Orecchiette with Braciole: Pasta served with tender beef rolls simmered in meat sauce.
• Spaghetti alla Puttanesca: Quick, tangy, and spicy dish with tomatoes, olives, capers, and garlic.
• Chicory with Fava Bean Puree: Pugliese dish pairing bitter greens with smooth fava beans.
• Spaghetti with Clams (Spaghetti alle Vongole): Classic seafood pasta, highlighting the flavor of fresh clams.
• Rice, Potatoes, and Mussels (Tiella Barese): Layered baked dish from Bari with rice, potatoes, and mussels.
• Pasta with Lentils: Simple, hearty dish perfect for cooler weather.
• Gnocchi with Gorgonzola and Toasted Hazelnuts: Soft potato gnocchi with a rich cheese sauce and crunchy nuts.
• Seafood Risotto: Creamy rice dish with a mix of fresh seafood.

Regional variations. Many recipes highlight specific regional origins (Puglia, Sicily, Campania, Emilia-Romagna), demonstrating how the same basic ingredients can be transformed into unique dishes based on local traditions and available produce or seafood.

8. Second Courses: Simple Proteins, Rich Flavors.

Saltimbocca literally translates to “it jumps in your mouth,” and this quintessential Roman dish is aptly named.

Focus on main ingredients. Italian second courses (secondi) often feature meat, fish, or substantial vegetable dishes. The emphasis is on simple preparations that allow the quality of the main ingredient to shine, often complemented by flavorful sauces or accompaniments.

Examples of secondi:

• Eggplant Parmigiana, Pugliese-Style: Layers of battered and fried eggplant with cheese, sauce, and sometimes mortadella, baked until bubbly.
• Chicken in Lemon Sauce (Scallopine di Pollo al Limone): Quick, flavorful chicken cutlets in a bright lemon sauce.
• Eggplant Rollatini: Fried eggplant slices rolled around a cheese and bread crumb filling, baked in sauce.
• Sausage and Peppers: Simple, hearty dish with Italian sausage and bell peppers.
• Seafood Beatrice (Zuppa di Pesce alla Beatrice): Elegant, quick seafood stew with various fish and shellfish in a light broth.
• Palermo-Style Veal Skewers (Spiedini Palermitani): Veal rolls filled with a savory-sweet bread crumb mixture, often grilled or baked.
• Grilled Swordfish with Tomatoes and Olives: Meaty fish grilled and topped with a flavorful Mediterranean salsa.
• Stuffed Peppers (Peperoni Ripieni): Peppers filled with a meat and bread crumb mixture, simmered in tomato sauce.
• Grilled Crusted Octopus (Polpo con Mollica): Tenderized octopus coated in bread crumbs and grilled until slightly charred.
• Oven-Braised Cod with Scallions and Olives: Mild fish baked with simple, aromatic ingredients.
• Veal Stew in a Polenta Bowl (Spezzatino di Vitello con Polenta): Tender veal and peas in a rich stew, served in a polenta bowl.
• Barese-Style Stuffed Meatloaf (Polpettone Barese): Meatloaf filled with cheese and mortadella, baked with potatoes in sauce.
• Whole Stuffed Branzino Baked in Foil (Branzino in Cartoccio): Fish stuffed with herbs and lemon, baked in foil to retain moisture.
• Veal Saltimbocca (Saltimbocca alla Romana): Thin veal slices with prosciutto and sage in a wine and butter sauce.

Simple techniques. Many secondi rely on straightforward cooking methods like frying, grilling, baking, or simmering. The flavor comes from fresh herbs, garlic, olive oil, and the natural taste of the protein or vegetable.

9. Pizza, Breads, & Savory Bakes: Tradition and Celebration.

Every Good Friday, families from Puglia enjoy a pie crust made with white wine, oil, and flour, and stuffed with an onion filling that varies from village to village.

Baked traditions. Savory baked goods hold a special place in Italian cuisine, often associated with holidays, celebrations, or specific regional traditions. These range from simple focaccia to elaborate stuffed pies, showcasing different doughs and fillings.

Examples from the book:

• Focaccia Bread, Barese-Style: Simple, airy focaccia topped with tomatoes, oregano, and salt, often made in a warm environment.
• Pizza Rustica (Pizza Chiena): Rich, decadent stuffed pie with cheeses and meats, traditionally for Easter.
• Prosciutto and Cheese–Stuffed Bread (Pane Imbottito): Bread dough filled with cold cuts and cheeses, twisted and baked.
• Baccalà Pie (Crostata di Baccalà): Salt cod pie with a sweet and savory filling in a wine-based crust, traditional for Easter in Puglia.
• Pizza with Cheese, Onions, and Bread (Faccia di Vecchia): Thick-crusted Sicilian pizza with a unique topping of cheese, onions, and bread soaked in tomato sauce.
• Savory Italian Biscuits (Taralli Baresi): Crunchy biscuits boiled and then baked, often flavored with olive oil and wine.
• Sicilian Pizza (Sfincione Siciliano): Thick-crusted pizza/focaccia with anchovies, Pecorino, and a bread crumb topping.
• Spinach and Rice Pie (Torta di Riso Genovese): Ligurian specialty with rice cooked in milk and water, mixed with spinach and cheese, baked in a crust.
• Mozzarella and Tomato Fritters (Panzerotti): Fried dough pockets filled with mozzarella and tomatoes, similar to small calzones.
• Savory Scallion Pie (Scalcione): Pugliese pie with a wine-based crust and a savory scallion, tomato, and olive filling.

Regional diversity. These recipes highlight the variety of baked goods across Italy, from the thick, bread-like sfincione of Sicily to the wine-crusted savory pies of Puglia. Many are tied to specific feast days or family customs.

10. Desserts & Cookies: Sweet Endings and Cherished Memories.

Few things in life make me happier than seeing a big plate of ricotta cookies covered in their dreamy glaze.

Sweet traditions. Italian desserts and cookies (dolci and biscotti) provide a sweet conclusion to meals and are often central to holiday celebrations and family gatherings. They range from creamy puddings and tarts to a wide variety of biscuits, each with its own history and flavor profile.

Examples from the book:

• Sicilian Cannoli: Crispy fried shells filled with a smooth ricotta cream, often finished with pistachios.
• Flourless Almond Torte (Torta Caprese): Moist, rich almond and chocolate cake, often spiked with liqueur.
• Wedding Cake (Torta Nunziale con Pasta Reale): Italian sponge cake soaked in rum, filled with custard and almond paste, frosted with whipped cream.
• Sicilian Milk Pudding (Biancomangiare): Simple, ancient milk pudding, often served over ladyfinger cookies.
• Ricotta and Pinoli Tart (Crostata della Nonna): Tart with a rich, lemony ricotta and pine nut filling.
• Wheat Pie (Pastiera Napoletana): Classic Neapolitan Easter pie with hulled wheat, ricotta, and candied fruit.
• Struffoli: Deep-fried dough balls coated in honey and sprinkles, traditional for Christmas.
• Apple Bundt Cake (Torta di Mele): Moist olive oil cake with caramelized apple slices.
• Italian Bundt Cake (Ciambella): Simple vanilla-scented ring cake, perfect for dipping in coffee.
• Ricotta Cheesecake (Torta di Ricotta): Smooth, citrusy cheesecake without a crust.
• Custard-Filled Pastries with Cherries (Pasticciotti con Amarena): Small cream-filled tarts, often topped with sour cherries.
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Last updated: May 17, 2025