The Apprentice

1. Wartime Childhood Forged Resilience and Resourcefulness

But when I grimaced and said, "I don't like these," Maman would say, "Too bad, Tati, that's all we have."

Necessity bred ingenuity. Growing up in France during World War II meant constant food scarcity, bombing raids, and uncertainty. This environment forced young Jacques and his family to be incredibly resourceful, finding creative ways to source and prepare food, like using beet syrup for sugar or cooking beef lungs. His mother, Jeannette, a tiny but energetic force, worked tirelessly as a waitress and cyclist-forager to keep her three sons fed, instilling in him a deep appreciation for ingredients and the effort behind every meal.

Farm stays provided perspective. Summers spent on farms offered a stark contrast to the scarcity in town, providing simple but abundant food in exchange for chores. These experiences, like milking a cow for the first time or eating gaudes directly from the table, taught him that food was more than just sustenance; it could be a source of comfort, connection, and even wonder. The war years, though difficult, laid the groundwork for his resilience and practical approach to cooking.

Early exposure to food's power. Witnessing his mother's dedication to feeding her family and experiencing the simple abundance of farm life highlighted the central role of food in survival and community. These formative years, marked by both hardship and moments of simple pleasure like sharing canned sardines from American parachutes, shaped his understanding of food's fundamental importance and the resourcefulness required to obtain it.

2. Early Kitchen Experiences Ignited a Lifelong Passion

More than anything in the world, I wanted to be a chef.

Restaurant life was home. From a young age, Jacques was immersed in the bustling world of his mother's restaurants, starting with the dubious Hôtel L'Amour. He and his brothers were drafted into service, peeling vegetables, stringing beans, and learning the rhythm of a busy kitchen. This hands-on experience, combined with the lively atmosphere of patrons, card games, and even local prostitutes, made the restaurant feel like a natural extension of his home and family.

Learning by doing. His mother, despite her lack of formal training, was a natural cook and entrepreneur, constantly adapting and refining her skills. Jacques learned by observing her, helping with tasks like making "hunger quencher" French toast or mou au vin rouge. These early, unconventional culinary experiences, born out of necessity, exposed his palate to unique flavors and taught him the value of using every part of an ingredient.

The call of the stove. By age thirteen, having worked in four different restaurant kitchens, Jacques felt a powerful pull towards the culinary profession. Unlike his brother Roland, who yearned to escape the kitchen life, Jacques found excitement in the heat, the noise, the rush, and the camaraderie. Quitting school early to pursue an apprenticeship was a clear decision driven by this burgeoning passion and a sense of belonging in the kitchen environment.

3. Apprenticeship Instilled Discipline and Foundational Techniques

My education as an apprentice was strictly a process of observation and imitation.

Entering the professional world. At thirteen, Jacques began his three-year apprenticeship at Le Grand Hôtel de l'Europe, a stark contrast to his mother's humble restaurants. Here, he encountered a formal hierarchy, professional uniforms, and the awe-inspiring "piano" stove. His initial tasks were menial, from feeding the hotel dogs to cleaning floors and scraping butcher blocks, instilling humility and a deep respect for cleanliness.

Learning by watching. Formal instruction was non-existent; knowledge was passed down through observation and imitation. He watched Chef Jauget and the commis, absorbing techniques for preparing vegetables, dressing poultry, and scaling fish. This visual osmosis taught him the importance of precision and the sensory aspects of cooking – determining doneness by touch, freshness by smell and sound.

Mastering the basics. Despite the pranks and the occasional harsh punishment (like being put "on guard" or hit with a ladle), he diligently learned the fundamental skills. Lighting and managing the wood-fired stove, preparing mise-en-place, and understanding the flow of service were critical lessons. This period, though challenging, built the technical foundation and discipline that would serve him throughout his career.

4. Parisian Kitchens Refined Skills and Exposed Him to Haute Cuisine

No doubt about it, I was playing in the Big Leagues.

Ascending the hierarchy. After his apprenticeship, Jacques moved to Paris, securing jobs through the Société des cuisiniers. He worked in various establishments, from the archaic basement kitchen of La Maxéville to the aristocratic Le Meurice and the famous La Rotonde. Each kitchen offered new challenges, different techniques, and exposure to the intricate world of classical French haute cuisine.

Precision and perfection. At Le Meurice, under Chef Ripert, he learned the demanding precision of preparing complex dishes like petite marmite, where vegetables were turned into miniature tops and every step was executed flawlessly. This was a world of strict rules and no room for error, a stark contrast to the more improvisational style he had known.

Navigating personalities and politics. Working in Paris also meant dealing with difficult bosses, like the tyrannical Chef Crampette at La Rotonde. These experiences, though leading to his eventual dismissal (often due to accidental mishaps involving the chef's posterior or the refrigerator door), taught him resilience and the importance of finding the right fit in a kitchen environment. He also began to engage with the city's cultural and intellectual life, expanding his horizons beyond the kitchen.

5. Cooking for Presidents Offered Unique Challenges and Insights

Ours was a heady position but, paradoxically, in the context of that time, not prestigious in anyway.

Unexpected military assignment. Drafted into the French Navy during the Algerian War, Jacques's culinary skills saved him from combat. His experience at Le Plaza Athénée landed him a position cooking for officers at the Pépinière, and later, through a fortunate connection, as private chef to the Secretary of the Treasury, Paul Ramadier.

Chef to the head of state. When Ramadier became Prime Minister, Jacques suddenly found himself cooking for France's leader at L'Hôtel Matignon. He adapted to preparing elaborate, classical dishes for dignitaries and navigating the erratic schedules of politicians. He learned to manage a kitchen alone and later found a perfect partner in Jean-Claude Szurdak.

Serving de Gaulle. Under President Charles de Gaulle, Jacques experienced a different kind of service. De Gaulle was punctual and ethical, insisting on paying for family meals himself. Jacques interacted regularly with Mme. de Gaulle ("Aunt Yvonne"), who gently guided the menus to protect her husband's health. This period, though not considered the pinnacle of a chef's career in France at the time, provided invaluable experience in high-stakes, personalized cooking and exposed him to world leaders.

6. Coming to America Broadened Horizons and Introduced New Culinary Perspectives

Everything was possible.

A new world. Arriving in New York in 1959, speaking little English, Jacques felt a thrilling sense of freedom and possibility. He quickly found work at Le Pavilion, one of the finest French restaurants in the US, under Chef Pierre Franey, who became a lifelong friend and mentor.

Adapting to American culture and food. Le Pavilion's kitchen was less rigid than those in Paris, and the ingredients were different – milder produce, larger cuts of meat, different fish. He began learning English, exploring New York, and experiencing American food culture, from Times Square street carts to suburban pot roasts and the convenience of supermarkets.

Howard Johnson's and mass production. A pivotal decision led him to turn down a potential White House chef position for a job at Howard Johnson's. Here, he learned the revolutionary concept of mass-producing consistent, quality food for a large chain. Working with Pierre Franey, he applied classical techniques to American comfort food, pioneering methods for freezing and reheating dishes on a grand scale.

7. A Life-Altering Accident Forced a Pivot from Line Cook to Teacher/Writer

Until that night, I had always considered myself a chef.

A devastating crash. In 1974, a severe car accident left Jacques with multiple broken bones and a grim prognosis – he might never walk or cook on a line again. Months of painful recovery followed, including addiction to painkillers and moments of despair about his future.

Finding a new path. The physical limitations forced him to confront the reality that his career as a line chef was likely over. This realization, coupled with support from friends like Barbara Kafka, pushed him to explore alternative avenues in the food world.

Teaching and consulting emerge. A fortuitous phone call led to a well-paying cooking lesson gig, hinting at the potential for a career in teaching. Consulting on Joe Baum's Windows on the World project further utilized his expertise in kitchen design and efficiency, demonstrating that his knowledge extended beyond the stove. These opportunities began to pave the way for his transition from professional cook to culinary educator and author.

8. Teaching Became a Passion, Sharing Knowledge and Learning from Students

I felt I owed a debt to the trade.

Sharing the craft. Recovering from his accident, Jacques found a new purpose in teaching. He felt a responsibility to pass on the classical techniques he had learned through years of apprenticeship and kitchen work, especially as the traditional methods were fading.

Developing a teaching philosophy. He began teaching at cooking schools across the country, adapting his approach to students with varying levels of experience. He learned to break down complex techniques into understandable steps, recognizing common difficulties and tailoring his instruction. This process refined his understanding of the fundamental building blocks of cooking.

Learning from students and new cultures. Teaching exposed him to American home cooks and their unique challenges and perspectives. His travels for teaching also allowed him to explore regional American cuisines and international food cultures, like Chinese banquet cooking, further broadening his culinary horizons and influencing his own cooking style.

9. Writing Codified Techniques and Reached a Wider Audience

Writing and teaching were symbiotic.

From notes to manuscripts. His teaching experiences led him to document the fundamental techniques he taught, initially as simple notes. These jottings evolved into the concept for a cookbook focused on step-by-step photographic instruction, a format inspired by his work on the Time/Life Food of the World series.

The birth of "La Technique". Despite initial rejections and contractual hurdles, his vision for a technique-focused book materialized as "La Technique." This groundbreaking work, heavily reliant on detailed photographs and concise explanations, codified classical French methods for a wider audience, becoming a standard reference for aspiring cooks.

Expanding his reach. Writing allowed him to share his knowledge with tens of thousands of readers, far more than he could reach through classes alone. His success as an author, in turn, increased demand for his teaching, creating a mutually beneficial relationship between the two careers. He continued to write, collaborating with editors like Ann Bramson and taking on ambitious projects like "The Art of Cooking."

10. Television Brought Cooking into American Homes

My TV career was launched.

Early attempts and setbacks. Jacques's foray into television began with auditions and pilot shows in the late 1960s, including a proposed program with Jean Nidetch of Weight Watchers. Despite positive feedback, these early efforts failed to materialize, often due to lack of funding, leading to a two-decade hiatus from the medium.

Finding a home at PBS. His persistence paid off in 1988 when KQED in San Francisco decided to fund a series. Working with producer Peter Stein and culinary producer Susie Heller, he developed a show focused on teaching essential techniques through easy, quick, and visually appealing dishes for the home cook.

Success and collaboration. The resulting series, which aired in 1989, garnered high ratings and continued sponsor support. Television proved to be a powerful platform for reaching a vast audience. He later successfully integrated his daughter, Claudine, into the show, creating a popular father-daughter dynamic that resonated with viewers and further expanded his reach.

11. Building a Life and Family Intertwined with Food and Hospitality

The kitchen became the heart of our home, a room in which we both felt comfortable, the room in which we spent most of our lime.

Meeting Gloria. A ski accident led him to meet Gloria, who would become his wife and partner. Their relationship, initially marked by cultural misunderstandings (like his approach to fried eggs), blossomed into a strong bond centered around food and shared experiences.

Creating a home. Together, they renovated houses in Hunter, New York, and later Madison, Connecticut, transforming dilapidated structures into warm, functional homes with kitchens as the central hub. These homes became gathering places for friends and family, reflecting their shared passion for hospitality and good food.

Family and food traditions. Food was integral to their family life, from foraging in the woods and fishing in the sound to cooking together with their daughter, Claudine. They blended French and Caribbean culinary traditions, creating their own family recipes and rituals, like setting the table for dinner every night.

12. Embracing Simplicity, Quality Ingredients, and Personal Expression Defines His Cuisine

I simply cooked the way I felt, based on the ingredients at my disposal.

Beyond classical constraints. While deeply rooted in classical French techniques learned during his apprenticeship and Parisian years, Jacques's cooking evolved, particularly influenced by his experiences in America and the advent of nouvelle cuisine. He moved away from rigid adherence to tradition, embracing simplicity and the integrity of ingredients.

The impact of nouvelle cuisine. Although initially puzzled by the movement, he came to appreciate its core tenets:

• Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients.
• Simplify preparations and shorten cooking times.
• Emphasize natural flavors and lighter sauces.
• Be open to new techniques and ethnic influences.

A personal style. His time at Howard Johnson's taught him about consistency and efficiency, while teaching highlighted the needs of home cooks. Combined with his love for foraging and using simple, high-quality ingredients, these influences shaped his personal culinary philosophy – cooking intuitively, based on what's available, and prioritizing taste and texture over unnecessary complexity or decoration.

Last updated: June 1, 2025