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Science Of Spice

Science Of Spice

by Stuart Farrimond 2018 224 pages
4.30
577 ratings
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Key Takeaways

1. Spices: Nature's Potent Flavor Chemicals.

Spice flavors are chemicals produced by plants, often for defence.

Plant defense mechanisms. Spices are essentially concentrated packets of chemicals that plants developed for survival. These compounds serve various roles in nature, such as repelling pests, attracting pollinators, or protecting against infections. By happy coincidence, many of these defensive chemicals have aromas and tastes that humans find appealing.

Beyond leafy herbs. Unlike herbs, which come from leafy parts and are often used fresh, spices typically derive from dried seeds, fruits, roots, stems, flowers, or bark. This structural difference often means spices contain a higher concentration of flavor compounds, making them more potent and suitable for adding deep, background flavor rather than fresh notes. Examples include:

  • Seeds (cumin, cardamom)
  • Fruits (allspice, chili)
  • Roots (turmeric, ginger)
  • Bark (cinnamon, cassia)

Historical and culinary value. Throughout history, spices have been valued not just for cooking, but also for medicinal properties and in religious ceremonies. Science now reveals that the once-mystical powers of these plant parts are directly linked to the specific flavor compounds they contain, which interact with our senses and even our physiology.

2. Flavor Compounds: The Molecular Basis of Taste.

Flavor compounds are the tiny molecules that give each spice its unique flavor.

Aromas and tastes. When we experience the flavor of a spice, we are sensing specific molecules. These molecules travel up the throat to the nose (aroma) or interact directly with taste receptors on the tongue (taste). Understanding these compounds is crucial for unlocking creativity in the kitchen.

Oil vs. water solubility. Most flavor compounds in spices are oil-soluble, meaning they dissolve and disperse best in fats or alcohol, not water. They are often stored in oil glands within the plant structure and are released when the plant is damaged or heated. This solubility affects how flavors are best extracted and distributed in cooking.

Beyond traditional taste. Some compounds in spices don't fit the traditional definition of flavor (aroma sensed by the nose). These "tastants" directly stimulate nerves on the tongue, causing sensations like:

  • Sweetness (sugars)
  • Sourness (acids)
  • Bitterness
  • Numbness
  • Coldness
  • Spicy heat (pungent compounds)

3. Spice Groupings: A Scientific Framework for Understanding Flavors.

Using features shared by compounds, I have organized spices into 12 flavor groups.

Organizing complexity. With hundreds of flavor compounds across different spices, understanding their interactions can seem daunting. By grouping spices based on their dominant flavor compounds and shared characteristics, we create a simpler framework for predicting how they might pair. This moves beyond trial-and-error or tradition alone.

Shared characteristics. Each flavor group represents spices that share key chemical similarities, leading to overlapping taste profiles or sensory effects. For example, spices high in phenols often have warming, sweet, or medicinal notes, while those high in certain terpenes might be fragrant, earthy, or penetrating.

Predicting harmony. Spices within the same group often blend well due to their shared chemical foundation. However, the real power comes from understanding how spices from different groups can connect through minor shared compounds, creating complex and harmonious blends that might not be obvious from their dominant flavors alone.

4. The Periodic Table of Spices: Your Culinary Flavor Map.

Taking inspiration from the scientific world, I have devised this Periodic Table of Spices as a starting point for a new way of thinking about spices.

Visualizing flavor relationships. Just as the chemical periodic table organizes elements by their properties, the Periodic Table of Spices organizes spices by their dominant flavor groups. This visual tool provides a quick reference for identifying spices with similar profiles or potential connections.

Beyond traditional categories. The table moves beyond simple "sweet" or "savory" labels, categorizing spices based on the specific chemistry that drives their taste. This allows for more nuanced understanding and creative pairing possibilities. The 12 groups include:

  • Sweet Warming Phenols
  • Warming Terpenes
  • Fragrant Terpenes
  • Earthy Terpenes
  • Penetrating Terpenes
  • Citrus Terpenes
  • Sweet-Sour Acids
  • Fruity Aldehydes
  • Toasty Pyrazines
  • Sulfurous Compounds
  • Pungent Compounds
  • Unique Compounds

A tool for exploration. The table serves as a starting point. By identifying the dominant group of a spice you want to use, you can then explore other spices within that group or look for connections to spices in other groups based on shared minor compounds, as detailed in individual spice profiles.

5. Science of Blending: Pairing Spices by Shared Compounds.

Complexity increases with each extra spice, and so will pleasure— research shows that the greater the range of flavors and mouth sensations in a dish, the tastier it will be.

The principle of shared compounds. The most reliable way to create harmonious spice blends is by pairing spices that share one or more flavor compounds, even if those compounds are minor in one of the spices. These shared molecules act as bridges, linking different flavor profiles together.

Building complexity. Start by choosing one or two primary spices from a flavor group that defines the main taste you want (e.g., Citrus Terpenes for a zesty dish). Then, add complexity by introducing spices from other flavor groups that share compounds with your primary choices. This layering of shared molecules creates a more rounded and interesting flavor profile.

Avoiding clashes. Spices with no shared flavor compounds are more likely to clash, resulting in discordant tastes. By consulting the blending science for each spice, you can identify potential molecular connections and build blends that are scientifically likely to be delicious and exciting to the palate.

6. Unlock Flavor: Techniques for Maximizing Spice Potential.

The vast majority of flavor compounds in spices are oil- rather than water-soluble and are stored within bubbles of oil.

Releasing trapped flavors. Spice flavors are often locked within the plant's structure, particularly in oil glands. To release these compounds, the spice needs to be damaged (bruised, ground) and often heated. Different techniques are needed depending on the spice and its compounds.

The role of fat and alcohol. Since most flavor compounds are oil-soluble, cooking with fats (like oil, butter, or coconut milk) or alcohol is highly effective for extracting and distributing flavor throughout a dish. Water alone is less efficient for many spices.

Heat and time. Applying heat helps flavor compounds evaporate and spread, but excessive heat can also cause delicate compounds to degrade or new, undesirable bitter flavors to form (e.g., scorching paprika). Slow cooking allows time for flavors to diffuse from tougher structures (like bark or whole seeds), while quick cooking requires pre-grinding or using more volatile spices.

7. World of Spice: Tradition and Science in Regional Palettes.

Centuries of cooking experience are the bedrock of every country’s food heritage...

Traditional wisdom. Regional spice palettes are not random; they are the culmination of centuries of culinary experience, trade, and adaptation to local ingredients and climates. Cooks discovered through trial and error which spices grew locally, which were available through trade, and how they best complemented regional dishes.

Trade routes shaped cuisine. Ancient trade routes like the Silk Road and Spice Route facilitated the exchange of spices across continents, profoundly influencing regional cuisines. Spices native to Asia became staples in the Middle East and Africa, while New World spices like chili and vanilla revolutionized cooking in Europe and Asia.

Science validates tradition. Modern spice science often validates the wisdom embedded in traditional regional blends. For example, the ubiquitous pairing of cumin and coriander in many cuisines works beautifully because they share flavor compounds like cymene and pinene, creating a scientifically harmonious blend. Exploring regional palettes offers a wealth of proven pairing ideas to build upon.

8. Sweet Warming Phenols: Comforting and Aromatic Spice Family.

The warming, sweetly aromatic spices in this group owe their main flavor to compounds in the phenol family.

Defining characteristics. This group includes spices like cinnamon, cassia, clove, star anise, anise, licorice, mahleb, allspice, and vanilla. They are characterized by flavors that are often perceived as sweet, warming, aromatic, and sometimes medicinal or aniseed-like. Key compounds include eugenol (clove, allspice), cinnamaldehyde (cinnamon, cassia), and anethole (anise, star anise, fennel).

Culinary applications. These spices are versatile, used in both sweet and savory dishes. Their warming nature makes them popular in cold-weather cooking, while their sweetness enhances desserts and can balance rich or sour flavors in savory meals.

  • Cinnamon/Cassia: Baking, stews, curries.
  • Clove/Allspice: Pickling, meat dishes, mulled drinks.
  • Anise/Star Anise/Fennel: Baked goods, liqueurs, broths, fish.
  • Licorice/Mahleb: Baking, sweets, some meat dishes.
  • Vanilla: Desserts, seafood, sauces.

Blending within the group. Spices within this group often blend well due to shared phenolic compounds. For instance, clove and allspice both contain eugenol, creating a natural harmony. Blending them with spices from other groups can be achieved by finding connections through minor compounds like terpenes (e.g., linalool in allspice and coriander).

9. Pungent Compounds: The Science of Spicy Heat and Sensation.

These sometimes alarmingly hot spices share compounds that are not flavors at all, but chemicals that create an illusion of burning...

Heat is a sensation, not a flavor. Spices in this group, such as chili, black pepper, Sichuan pepper, and grains of paradise, contain compounds that activate pain or temperature receptors in the mouth, creating sensations of heat, tingling, or numbness rather than traditional aroma or taste. Key compounds include capsaicin (chili), piperine (black pepper), and sanshools (Sichuan pepper).

Varying effects. Different pungent compounds create distinct sensations:

  • Capsaicin (Chili): Burning heat, often lingering.
  • Piperine (Black Pepper): Warming, slightly woody heat.
  • Sanshools (Sichuan Pepper): Numbing, tingling, buzzing sensation.
  • Paradol (Grains of Paradise): Peppery, pungent warmth.

Blending for complex heat. Combining spices from this group allows for layering different types of heat and sensation. Pairing them with spices from other groups can be done by finding connections through shared aromatic compounds like terpenes (e.g., limonene in chili and coriander) or phenols, which can balance or enhance the heat.

10. Unique Compounds: Discovering Distinctive Spice Characters.

Some compounds are unique in the world of spices or do not fit in other groups.

Beyond the common categories. While many spices fit neatly into groups based on dominant shared compounds, some possess signature molecules that are rare or unique. These spices bring truly distinctive characters to dishes. Examples include saffron, turmeric, fenugreek, ajwain, celery seed, and poppy seed.

Distinctive profiles:

  • Saffron: Bitter, hay-like, metallic (Picrocrocin, Safranal).
  • Turmeric: Earthy, musky, slightly bitter (Turmerone).
  • Fenugreek: Bittersweet, maple syrup, musty (Sotolon).
  • Ajwain: Bitter, herbaceous, thymelike (Thymol).
  • Celery Seed: Bitter, savory, grassy (Phthalides).
  • Poppy Seed: Nutty, mild, green (2-Pentylfuran).

Pairing unique spices. Blending these spices requires understanding their specific unique compounds and finding other spices that share minor aromatic notes or provide complementary tastes (sweet, sour, bitter) or sensations (heat, coolness) to balance their strong personalities. Traditional regional uses often provide excellent starting points for pairing these distinctive flavors.

Last updated:

Review Summary

4.30 out of 5
Average of 577 ratings from Goodreads and Amazon.

The Science of Spice receives mostly positive reviews, with readers praising its comprehensive information, beautiful design, and scientific approach to spices. Many find it useful for expanding their culinary knowledge and improving their cooking. Some criticize its oversimplification of certain cuisines and cultural insensitivity. The book's layout can be challenging on e-readers. Overall, readers appreciate the in-depth exploration of spice history, chemistry, and usage, though some find it too technical or basic depending on their existing knowledge.

Your rating:
4.62
5 ratings

About the Author

Dr. Stuart Farrimond is a multifaceted science communicator specializing in medical and scientific topics. He has established himself as a prominent figure in science education and media, regularly appearing on BBC TV and radio programs. Farrimond's expertise extends to public speaking engagements, where he shares his knowledge with diverse audiences. His written work reaches a broad readership through various national and international publications, including the Independent, the Daily Mail, and New Scientist. Farrimond's ability to convey complex scientific concepts in an accessible manner has made him a respected voice in science communication and education.

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