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Arabesque

Arabesque

A Taste of Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon
by Claudia Roden 2005 342 pages
4.10
1.9K ratings
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Key Takeaways

1. Three Great Cuisines: A Tapestry of Mediterranean & Islamic Legacies

The three are part of the Mediterranean culinary culture that the West has come to love and also share legacies from the Islamic world, with echoes of ancient Persia and medieval Baghdad, Moorish Spain and the Ottoman Empire.

Shared heritage. The cuisines of Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon, while distinct, are deeply interconnected through history and geography. Situated where East meets West around the Mediterranean, they share a common culinary foundation shaped by centuries of trade, migration, and cultural exchange.

Cross-cultural influences. These traditions bear the imprint of powerful empires and distant lands, including ancient Persia, the Abbasid Caliphate in Baghdad, Moorish Spain (Al Andalus), and the vast Ottoman Empire. As key transit points on historic spice routes, they absorbed diverse flavors and techniques, contributing to their complex and aromatic profiles.

Distinct identities. Despite shared roots, each country developed unique culinary characteristics. Their specific spice blends, preferred aromatics, and regional variations create distinct flavor profiles, allowing one to differentiate the cuisines purely by taste.

2. Imperial Kitchens: Refinement Born from Conquest and Exchange

Empires have a way of drawing in culinary riches from distant lands, and court kitchens are places of creativity and refinement.

Centers of innovation. Imperial capitals like Damascus (Umayyad), Fez (Almoravid/Almohad), and Istanbul (Ottoman) were crucibles of culinary development. Court kitchens, staffed by skilled cooks, refined dishes and incorporated ingredients and techniques from across their vast domains.

Enduring sophistication. The sophisticated styles developed in these palaces, influenced by Persian, Arab, and Byzantine traditions, filtered down over time. This legacy of refinement is still evident in the subtle combinations and harmonious flavors found in many modern dishes.

Andalusian impact. The cultural exchange with Muslim Spain significantly influenced Moroccan cuisine, particularly in cities like Fez. Figures like Ziryab from Baghdad are credited with introducing new levels of refinement in dining etiquette and cooking techniques in Al Andalus, which later resonated in North Africa.

3. The Soul of Flavor: Mastering Aromatics and Spice Blends

A certain magic surrounds the use of spices and aromatics, which are not only used for their flavor but also for their medicinal, therapeutic, and even sometimes aphrodisiac value.

More than taste. Spices and aromatics are fundamental to these cuisines, valued for their perceived health benefits and symbolic properties as much as for their flavor. They are thought to stimulate appetite, aid digestion, or calm the nerves.

Signature profiles. Each country boasts characteristic spices and blends that define its culinary identity.

  • Morocco: Saffron, ginger, cinnamon, cumin, paprika, chili, ras el hanout.
  • Turkey: Sumac, cumin, paprika, chili, allspice, cinnamon.
  • Lebanon: Cumin, coriander, mint, parsley, sumac, tahini.
    Common herbs like flat-leaf parsley, coriander, and mint are used generously across all three.

Unique additions. Distinctive aromatics like Moroccan preserved lemon, Lebanese/Turkish pomegranate molasses, and the perfumed flower waters (orange blossom and rose) add layers of complexity and fragrance, creating memorable flavor experiences.

4. Morocco: Sweet & Savory Harmony and the Art of the Dada

In a society based around the family, where the oldest generation of women is still mostly illiterate, cooking is a woman's art and still an oral tradition with its secrets passed down from mother to daughter.

Aromatic balance. Moroccan cooking is renowned for its exquisite refinement, particularly its skillful blending of sweet and savory flavors. Dishes like tagines often combine meat with fruits, honey, and spices for a unique taste.

Guardians of tradition. The great cooks, known as dadas, are almost exclusively women, often descendants of African slaves brought during the imperial era. They are the keepers of the grand culinary traditions, passing down complex techniques and recipes orally for generations, especially for festive occasions.

Regional diversity. Moroccan cuisine varies significantly by region:

  • Northern cities (Tangier, Tetouan, Fez) show Andalusian and Ottoman influences.
  • Southern regions (Marrakesh, Safi) incorporate African and Atlantic elements.
  • Imperial cities like Fez developed a particularly refined bourgeois style.

5. Turkey: Ottoman Grandeur and the Culture of Meze and Pilaf

Specialties of Istanbul—kebabs and pilafs, fillo pies, yogurt and cucumber salads, eggplant purées and stuffed vegetables, milk puddings, and nutty, syrupy pastries—are common in all the main cities of the countries that were part of the Ottoman Empire.

Imperial legacy. Turkish cuisine, especially in Istanbul, reflects the sophisticated traditions of the Ottoman court, which once rivaled the great cuisines of the world. Many classic dishes originated in the palace kitchens and spread throughout the empire.

Meze culture. Appetizers (meze) are a central feature, traditionally enjoyed with raki in taverns (meyhane) or fish restaurants. This social ritual involves a wide array of small, flavorful hot and cold dishes designed to complement the drink and encourage convivial lingering.

Staples and sweets. Pilafs, made with rice or bulgur, are everyday staples and essential celebratory dishes. Other key elements include:

  • Grilled meats (kebabs).
  • Delicate fillo pastries (börek, baklava).
  • Yogurt-based dishes (cacik, yogurt soups).
  • A rich variety of eggplant preparations.
  • Milk puddings and syrupy desserts.

6. Lebanon: Mezze Mastery and the Richness of Mountain & Coastal Traditions

Today, Lebanese restaurants, with their typical menus, have come to represent Arab food everywhere around the world.

Global influence. Lebanese cuisine, particularly its extensive mezze selection, has achieved international fame, often serving as the global face of Arab food. This is attributed to its deliciousness, variety, and the entrepreneurial spirit of the Lebanese diaspora.

Mezze as social art. The mezze tradition, closely tied to drinking arak, is a fundamental aspect of Lebanese social life and hospitality. Originating in the Bekaa Valley resorts, it evolved into the elaborate assortments offered today, emphasizing sharing and conviviality.

Diverse culinary landscape. Lebanon's varied geography and sectarian communities have fostered remarkable culinary diversity, blending urban and rural traditions.

  • Coastal cities like Beirut were influenced by Ottoman cuisine.
  • Mountain villages developed distinct styles based on local produce and preservation (mune).
  • Christian communities contributed a significant repertoire of vegetarian dishes due to religious fasting practices.

7. The Mune: Preserving Abundance for Seasons of Scarcity

The provisions made in the summer to last over the winter form the basis of Lebanese cooking and provide its distinctive flavors.

Rural necessity. The mune, or the tradition of preserving summer's bounty for winter, is a cornerstone of rural Lebanese cuisine. This practice was essential for survival in a country with dramatic seasonal shifts between abundance and scarcity.

Preservation techniques. A variety of methods are employed to create the mune:

  • Sun-drying fruits (figs, apricots) and vegetables (tomatoes, okra).
  • Drying grains, pulses, and nuts.
  • Preserving cooked meats in their fat.
  • Reducing fruit juices to syrups (pomegranate molasses).
  • Making tomato paste.
  • Draining yogurt to make labne (yogurt cheese) preserved in olive oil.

Flavor foundation. These preserved foods provide distinctive, concentrated flavors that form the base of many traditional dishes. While now commercially available, homemade mune is still prized, and the tradition remains a symbol of self-sufficiency and heritage.

8. Vegetables Ascendant: A Culinary Pillar Beyond Meat

Many vegetarian dishes are associated with the Christian communities because of the fasts prescribed by the Eastern Orthodox, Catholic, and Armenian Churches.

Integral role. Vegetables and pulses are extremely popular and play a central role in Lebanese cuisine, extending far beyond simple side dishes. They feature prominently in mezze, salads, pickles, and substantial main courses.

Religious influence. A significant portion of the rich vegetarian repertoire stems from the fasting traditions of various Christian denominations. These fasts required abstinence from meat and sometimes all animal products for extended periods, fostering creativity with plant-based ingredients.

Modern appeal. Today, these traditional meatless dishes, often based on grains, pulses, and seasonal vegetables, are increasingly popular in urban areas. They align with contemporary interests in healthy eating and showcase the inherent deliciousness and versatility of plant-based cooking.

9. Hospitality as Art: Sharing Food, Sharing Life

Sayings such as “Guests are the blessing of the house” and “Eat together since communal
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Review Summary

4.10 out of 5
Average of 1.9K ratings from Goodreads and Amazon.

Arabesque receives mostly positive reviews, with readers praising its beautiful presentation, informative cultural context, and accessible recipes. Many appreciate Roden's expertise and personal anecdotes, though some find the writing style repetitive. Highlights include the dessert section, couscous technique, and vegetable dishes. Critics note a lack of nutritional information and reliance on meat. Overall, readers value the book as an introduction to Middle Eastern cuisine, with some considering it essential for those interested in Lebanese or Turkish food.

Your rating:
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About the Author

Claudia Roden is an Egyptian-born author and culinary expert who has significantly influenced Western perceptions of Middle Eastern cuisine. Raised in Cairo and educated in Paris and London, she began her career as a painter before turning to food writing. Her groundbreaking book, A Book of Middle Eastern Food (1968), introduced readers to exotic and wholesome dishes from the region. Roden's approach combines personal experience with historical and social context, making her work both informative and engaging. She has received critical acclaim for her contributions to culinary literature, including a BBC television series and the prestigious Glenfiddich Trophy in 1992.

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