Taste of Persia

1. The Persian Culinary Region Unites Diverse Cultures

I want to take you there to engage with the intensities of Georgian dishes; with the creative and subtle culinary traditions of Iran, Armenia, and Azerbaijan; and with the remarkable home cooking of the people of Kurdistan.

Beyond modern borders. The Persian culinary region extends far beyond present-day Iran, encompassing Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Kurdistan. This vast area, once the heart of the ancient Persian Empire, shares a deep historical connection that is vividly expressed through its food. Despite diverse languages, religions, and political histories, the kitchen, garden, and table serve as common ground.

A mosaic of peoples. The region's history of conquest, migration, and shifting borders has created a complex demographic tapestry. Within Iran, there are significant populations of Azeris, Armenians, Georgians, Kurds, and Assyrians, while neighboring countries also host various ethnic groups with historical ties to Persia. This intermingling has enriched the culinary landscape, leading to shared dishes and techniques adapted to local ingredients and tastes.

Exploring rich traditions. The author's travels highlight the unique culinary contributions of each area while acknowledging their interconnectedness. From the vibrant intensity of Georgian flavors to the subtle elegance of Iranian dishes and the hearty home cooking of Kurdistan, the region offers a wealth of tastes and textures. The book invites readers to explore this diverse yet unified food world, discovering familiar elements alongside exciting new ones.

2. Shared Foodways Transcend Borders and Differences

The connections between them are found not in their diff erent places of worship, nor in their many distinctive languages and alphabets, but in the kitchen, in the garden, and at the table.

Culinary common ground. Despite the many languages spoken and religions practiced across the region, people share fundamental foodways. This shared culinary culture provides a powerful, unifying thread that connects individuals across national and ethnic lines. The simple acts of cooking, gardening, and sharing meals create a sense of community and mutual understanding.

Core ingredients and techniques. Several key elements are prevalent throughout the region's cuisines. These include:

• Generous use of fresh herbs and greens
• Importance of dairy products like yogurt and fresh cheese
• Walnuts and tart fruits (pomegranates, sour plums) in savory dishes
• Diverse flatbreads as a mealtime constant
• Inventive soups, stews, and grilled meats

A culture of sharing. Hospitality is a cornerstone value across all these cultures. Sharing food and drink with guests, whether friends or strangers, is a deeply ingrained tradition. This emphasis on generosity at the table reinforces the shared identity and warmth of the region's people, making visitors feel welcome and connected.

3. Persian Cuisine's Enduring Global Influence

The legacy of the Persian Empire includes apricots and bitter oranges, underground waterways and irrigation, ice cream, the pulao family of rice dishes, and the use of tart fruits in savory dishes.

Ancient roots, modern impact. Persian foodways have profoundly influenced cuisines far beyond the empire's historical boundaries, reaching from India to Morocco and even northern Europe. This legacy is evident not only in specific dishes but also in ingredients, techniques, and culinary philosophies that spread along ancient trade routes. The sophistication of Persian court cuisine, in particular, set standards for centuries.

Key contributions: The diffusion of Persian culinary wisdom introduced new ingredients and methods to other cultures. Notable examples include:

• Fruits: Apricots and bitter oranges originated in or were spread by Persia.
• Techniques: Underground irrigation (qanats) enabled agriculture in arid lands, supporting diverse crops.
• Dishes: The pulao family of rice dishes, found across Asia and beyond, has Persian origins.
• Flavors: The innovative use of tart fruits in savory preparations is a Persian hallmark.
• Sweets: Early forms of ice cream are attributed to Persia.

A continuous exchange. While Persian influence spread outward, the empire also absorbed culinary ideas from conquered peoples and trading partners. This dynamic exchange over millennia created a rich, layered cuisine that continued to evolve. Understanding this history reveals the deep roots of many familiar foods and cooking practices found worldwide today.

4. Each Country Offers Distinct Culinary Treasures

At the same time, each of the cultures here is distinctive and has a very clear view of its own importance.

Unique national identities. While sharing historical ties and culinary elements, each country within the Persian culinary region possesses a strong, distinct cultural identity and a proud culinary heritage. This sense of uniqueness is often expressed through variations on shared dishes, preferred ingredients, and specific cooking techniques that have evolved over centuries within local contexts.

Regional highlights:

• Iran: Famous for sophisticated rice dishes (chelo/polo), subtle ash soups, and the artful use of pomegranate molasses and dried limes.
• Kurdistan: Known for hearty stews (shley), unique rice preparations (birinji), and the central role of flatbreads (nane-tire) and fresh herbs.
• Armenia: Features creative, frugal dishes often based on vegetables, beans, and grains, with a rich repertoire of meatless options due to fasting traditions.
• Azerbaijan: Celebrates grilled meats (shishlik), stuffed vegetables (dolmasy), and the use of walnuts, pomegranates, and sour plums.
• Georgia: Distinguished by bold flavors, extensive use of walnuts, raw garlic, and tart fruit sauces (tkemali), and iconic cheese-filled breads (khachapuri).

Gastro-nationalism. This pride in local cuisine sometimes manifests as "gastro-nationalism," with different groups asserting ownership over specific dishes. However, the reality is a complex history of cultural mixing, where dishes and techniques have traveled and been adapted across borders, making claims of single origin difficult to sustain. The richness lies in the diversity and shared evolution.

5. Hospitality and Generosity Define the Table

Common to all the peoples of the region is a culture of hospitality, of sharing food and drink with both friends and strangers, with generosity.

A core cultural value. Across Iran, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Kurdistan, hospitality is not merely a social custom but a fundamental aspect of identity and community. Welcoming guests, whether planned or unexpected, with abundant food and drink is a deeply ingrained tradition. This generosity transcends social status and often involves sharing the best of what a household has to offer.

The ritual of the feast. Meals, especially those shared with guests, are often elaborate affairs. Tables are laden with a variety of dishes, from salads and appetizers to hearty stews, grilled meats, and an array of breads. The emphasis is on abundance and ensuring that guests feel honored and well-cared for. This tradition fosters connection and strengthens social bonds.

Sharing with strangers. The author's travels highlight numerous instances of spontaneous hospitality, where strangers invited her to share tea, meals, or conversation. This openness to outsiders, despite historical hardships and political complexities, speaks to the inherent warmth and generosity of the people. It underscores the idea that food is a universal language that can bridge divides and create moments of genuine human connection.

6. Fresh Herbs and Greens are Essential Staples

Fresh herbs are a constant at many meals throughout the Persian culinary world.

More than a garnish. In the Persian culinary region, fresh herbs and greens are not just decorative elements but integral components of meals. They are served in generous quantities, often on a dedicated "herb plate" (sabzi khordan in Persian), allowing diners to incorporate them into each bite. This practice adds freshness, flavor, and texture to rich and hearty dishes.

Variety and abundance. Markets across the region showcase a wide array of seasonal herbs and greens. Common varieties include:

• Mint, dill, basil, parsley, coriander (cilantro)
• Scallions, chives, chervil, tarragon
• Sorrel, watercress, arugula
• Fenugreek leaves, summer savory

Culinary uses. Beyond being served raw, herbs and greens are extensively used in cooking. They are finely chopped and incorporated into soups (ash), stews (khoresht), rice dishes (polo sabzi), and stuffed vegetables (dolmas). Dried herbs, particularly dried mint and fenugreek leaves, are also crucial pantry staples, offering intense flavor, especially in winter.

By making fresh greens a central part of the meal, the cuisine offers a refreshing counterpoint to cooked dishes and provides essential nutrients. It's a simple yet profound way to enhance flavor and dining pleasure.

7. Yogurt and Cheese are Versatile Dairy Pillars

Dairy products play a big role: yogurt, which is used in soups and drinks; fresh cheeses; and the thick fermented sauce known in Persian as kashk.

Integral to daily diet. Dairy products are fundamental to the diet across the Persian culinary region, reflecting a long history of pastoralism and animal husbandry. Yogurt and various fresh cheeses are consumed daily, either on their own, as accompaniments, or as key ingredients in cooked dishes.

Diverse applications:

• Yogurt: Used to thicken soups (dovgha, jajuk), as a base for vegetable salads (borani), diluted into refreshing drinks (dugh, ayran, than), or served plain alongside meals. Thick, drained yogurt is particularly prized.
• Fresh Cheese: Often served as part of the herb plate, crumbled into salads, or used as a filling for breads (khachapuri) and pastries. Feta and local varieties like suluguni are common.
• Kashk: A unique fermented whey product, available dried or as a paste, adding a pungent, cheesy depth to specific dishes, notably eggplant preparations (kashk-e-bademjan).

Nutritional and cultural importance. Dairy provides essential protein and calcium, particularly important in diets that may be low in meat or during fasting periods. The variety of dairy products and their widespread use highlight the ingenuity of cooks in utilizing available resources and creating diverse flavors and textures.

8. Tart Fruits and Walnuts Provide Signature Flavors

Shared elements in the region’s culinary cultures include walnuts, pomegranates, and other tart fruits, all used in many savory dishes as fl avorings, and sometimes as a main ingredient.

Balancing richness. A defining characteristic of the region's cuisine is the skillful use of tart fruits and nuts, particularly walnuts and pomegranates, to balance the richness of meat and vegetable dishes. This creates complex flavor profiles that are both refreshing and deeply satisfying.

Key ingredients and uses:

• Walnuts: Used extensively in sauces (bazha), vegetable pâtés (pkhali), stuffings (levangi), and stews (fesanjun). They add richness, texture, and a subtle earthy flavor.
• Pomegranates: Both the fresh seeds and the concentrated molasses (robb-e-anar) provide tartness and color. Used in salads, sauces, soups (ash-e-anar), and stews (fesanjun).
• Tart Fruits: Sour plums (tkemali), sour cherries, barberries (zereshk), dried apricots, and dried limes (limoo omani) are used fresh, dried, or as syrups/pastes to add acidity to savory dishes, cutting through fat and enhancing other flavors.

Ancient traditions. The use of these ingredients dates back centuries, reflecting the agricultural bounty of the region and the ingenuity of cooks in creating layered flavors. This approach distinguishes the cuisine from those that rely more heavily on citrus or vinegar for acidity.

9. Flatbreads Form the Heart of Every Meal

Bread is life in Greater Persia: Flatbreads are eaten every day as the accompaniments to meals.

A fundamental staple. Flatbreads are ubiquitous across the Persian culinary region, serving as the primary accompaniment to almost every meal. For centuries, they were the most important source of sustenance, and their cultural significance remains profound. They are used to scoop up food, wrap grilled meats, or simply enjoyed on their own.

Diverse types and techniques: The region boasts a remarkable variety of flatbreads, each with its own characteristics and baking methods. Examples include:

• Nane-tire (Kurdistan/Iran): Thin, unleavened breads baked on a domed griddle (saj).
• Lavash (Armenia/Iran/Azerbaijan): Similar thin breads, often leavened, traditionally baked on the walls of a tandoor oven.
• Barbari (Iran): A thick, ridged breakfast bread, traditionally baked on a hearth.
• Sangak (Iran): A chewy, dimpled bread traditionally baked on a bed of hot pebbles.
• Dedas Puri (Georgia): Boomerang-shaped, crusty breads baked in a Georgian tandoor (toné).
• Khachapuri (Georgia): Cheese-filled breads, often skillet-cooked or baked.

Baker's art. Baking flatbreads, particularly in traditional ovens like the tandoor or on a saj, is a skilled craft, often performed by specialized bakers. The process, from dough preparation to shaping and baking, is a vital part of the region's culinary heritage, ensuring a constant supply of fresh bread for households and communities.

10. Rice Cookery is an Art Form with Regional Styles

Rice is an honored and beloved staple in the Persian culinary world, from Iran to Azerbaijan and Kurdistan, and Persian rice cookery is in a class of its own.

More than just a side. While bread is ever-present, rice holds a special, often elevated, status in many parts of the region, particularly in Iran, Azerbaijan, and Kurdistan. Rice dishes are frequently the centerpiece of a meal, prepared with care and skill.

Persian Chelo/Polo: Iranian rice cookery is renowned for its meticulous method of parboiling and then steaming long-grain rice to achieve perfectly separate, fluffy grains. A prized element is the crispy bottom crust (tahdig), often made with a layer of rice mixed with yogurt and egg, or with bread or potatoes. Variations include layering with herbs (polo sabzi) or barberries (zereshk polo).

Kurdish Birinji: In contrast to the dry, separate grains of Persian rice, Kurdish rice dishes (birinji) are typically made with short- to medium-grain rice and cooked in a way that results in a texture closer to risotto, often with a bottom crust. Flavors include tomato (birinji sur), turmeric and broth (birinji zerde), or pomegranate molasses and walnuts (birinji rash).

Other grains: While rice is dominant in some areas, other grains like wheat (emmer, bulgur) and corn are also important staples, particularly in Armenia and Georgia, used in pilafs, porridges (herissah), and polenta-like dishes (ghomi).

11. Preserving Fruit Captures Summer's Bounty

Cooks in the Caucasus, Iran, and Kurdistan have a deep understanding of the value of fruit.

Storing summer's sweetness. Given the distinct seasons, particularly the cold winters in mountainous and northern areas, preserving the abundant fruit harvest is essential. This ensures a supply of vitamins, flavor, and comfort throughout the year. A variety of ingenious methods are employed, transforming fresh fruit into long-lasting pantry treasures.

Preservation techniques:

• Drying: Fruits like apricots, plums, apples, and mulberries are dried whole or in pieces.
• Fruit Leather (Lavashak, Tklapi): Fruit is pureed and dried in thin sheets, offering intense, often tart, flavor.
• Syrups (Sharbat): Fruit juices are cooked down with sugar to make concentrated syrups, diluted with water for refreshing drinks.
• Jams (Moraba): Fruits are preserved in thick sugar syrup, served as a sweet accompaniment to tea or used in desserts.
• Kompots: Fruit is steeped in hot water with sugar, creating flavorful juices for drinking.
• Churchkhela: Nuts are threaded on strings and repeatedly dipped in thickened grape juice (doshab) to create chewy, energy-rich "candles."

Culinary and cultural role. These preserved fruits are not only eaten as sweets but also play a vital role in savory cooking, adding tartness and depth to stews, soups, and rice dishes. They represent a connection to the land, the seasons, and the resourcefulness of home cooks in making the most of nature's bounty.

12. Tea and Coffee Fuel Daily Life and Connection

Tea is the everyday drink, the lubricant of conversations in bazaars and at home, in Iran, Azerbaijan, and Kurdistan.

The social ritual. Hot drinks, particularly tea, are central to social interaction and daily life across much of the region. Sharing a glass of tea is a fundamental act of hospitality, offered in homes, shops, and dedicated teahouses (chaikana). It provides a moment to pause, connect, and converse.

Tea culture: Black tea is the most common, often brewed strong and served in small glasses, typically sweetened with sugar. In Iran, sugar is often held in the mouth while sipping the tea. Tea may be flavored with cardamom or other spices. While tea is dominant in Iran, Azerbaijan, and Kurdistan, Georgia and Armenia also have a strong tea culture, though coffee is also very popular.

Coffee traditions. In Armenia and Georgia, coffee is often prepared in the traditional "Armenian" or "Turkish" style (soorj), brewed finely ground with sugar in a small pot (cezve/jazve/ibrik). This results in a strong, sweet, sediment-rich drink, often served in small cups. Coffee is also a social drink, enjoyed in cafes and homes.

Other beverages. In warmer months, cooling drinks like diluted yogurt (dugh, ayran, than) and fruit sharbats (syrups diluted with water) are popular and refreshing alternatives, reflecting the region's agricultural wealth and ingenuity in preserving fruit.

Last updated: June 8, 2025