Key Takeaways
1. The Audacious Dream of Alaskan Homesteading
I sat suddenly upright in bed in the middle of one night and shook Les awake. I was so excited. The answer had come to me as clearly as a verse from Exodus.
A new beginning. Norma, a divorced mother of three, found herself at a dead-end job in Colorado, yearning for more. After meeting and marrying Lester Cobb, a young cowboy with two twin daughters, she began having vivid dreams of building a log cabin in the wilderness. This vision, interpreted as divine guidance, ignited a shared dream of homesteading and a fresh start for their blended family of seven.
Escaping modern life. The Cobbs were driven by a desire to escape the perceived moral and environmental decay of cities and raise their children with strong values and practical skills. Their motivations were deeply personal, aiming for a life closer to nature and God, fostering responsibility, and achieving self-sufficiency. This quest for free land and a simpler existence became their "Holy Grail."
Against all odds. Despite vocal opposition from their parents, who feared for their safety in a "godforsaken country," and with less than a thousand dollars, the Cobbs embarked on their journey in November 1972. They were pioneers in spirit, ready to burn all bridges and head "North," believing that a new land offered the only path to owning their own farm and building a future free from the constraints of wage labor.
2. A Perilous Journey to the Last Frontier
Homesteading in Canada is closed to noncitizens. It’s been closed for quite a while.
Unexpected setbacks. The journey north was fraught with unforeseen challenges, quickly depleting their meager savings. Mechanical breakdowns, flat tires, and theft of tools and hunting guns forced them to pause in California for months, where Les worked as a mechanic and Norma and the children scavenged for resale. This initial delay was compounded by the shocking discovery that Canada had closed homesteading to non-citizens, shattering their original plan.
Illness and financial strain. Just as they resumed their journey, the three youngest children contracted whooping cough in Washington State, leading to more medical bills and further financial depletion. This forced another wintering-over in Seattle, where Norma enrolled the children in public school, questioning her "foolish dreams." The constant struggle made her doubt their chosen path.
Alaska's last call. A pivotal TV program revealed that the U.S. Homestead Act was ending in Alaska on January 1, 1974, due to native land claims. This news reignited their resolve, transforming their vague "North" destination into a specific, urgent race against time. Les filed a "dry claim" for 160 acres near Manley Hot Springs, sight unseen, committing them to Alaska, the true "Last Frontier."
3. Confronting Wilderness Dangers and Human Conflict
Poaching big game was serious business. The kids and I would have to return to Colorado or to my dad’s place in Wichita, if we could get there.
Survival by any means. Arriving in Anchorage with only $35, the Cobbs faced immediate survival challenges. Les, unable to afford a hunting license, poached a moose to feed his family, risking jail time. A sympathetic state trooper, seeing the thin, hungry children, let him go, highlighting the unique moral landscape of the frontier where necessity often superseded law.
The "Hatchet Lady" incident. Their temporary stay in Eureka brought them into conflict with Arnold Cranick, a volatile drunk who blamed Les for his gun accidentally shooting Sean. In a terrifying confrontation, Arnold pulled a .357 Magnum on Les in their camper. Norma, driven by maternal instinct, grabbed a hatchet and struck Arnold's gun hand, saving Les's life and earning her the moniker "Hatchet Lady."
Frontier justice. The incident with Arnold, coupled with his subsequent harassment and false accusations, underscored the lawless nature of the bush. With only one state trooper covering a vast area, settlers often had to enforce their own justice. Les eventually faced down Arnold in a public confrontation in Manley, forcing the bully to leave the territory, solidifying the Cobbs' reputation as tough, unyielding pioneers.
4. Finding Sanctuary and Building a Home in Minook Valley
The valley fell away at our feet, wide and almost a mile deep. It was covered with timber. Big timber. Giant spruce and fir with red trunks or gray trunks.
Disappointment and discovery. Their initial homestead claim near Manley Hot Springs proved barren and unsuitable, leaving Les disheartened and Norma ready to quit. However, Les's relentless optimism led him to discover Minook Valley, a place of breathtaking beauty with abundant timber and clear streams. This valley, which mirrored Norma's original dreams, instantly stole her heart and renewed their commitment to homesteading.
A place of unique magic. Minook Valley, protected by soaring mountains and teeming with wildlife, felt like a sacred space. Its towering conifers, vibrant wildflowers, and pristine creeks convinced Norma that God had guided them there, testing their mettle along the way. This was the place where they would build their home, a symbol of their enduring spirit and a testament to their journey.
Building from scratch. The Cobbs, along with the Yagers and Westbrooks, initially attempted a communal building effort, but human nature soon led to individual pursuits. Les, a "dynamo" of a worker, quickly began constructing their 20x30-foot log cabin with a sod roof, designed to withstand the Arctic elements. This hands-on labor, from felling trees to chinking walls, was the essence of their pioneering life.
5. The Unforgiving Reality of Arctic Winters
Snowfall is awfully heavy. If something happened out here, you’d have no way of getting out or of notifying anybody.
The first winter alone. Despite their efforts, the first cabin was not ready for winter. Les took a high-paying job in Prudhoe Bay, leaving Norma and the five children to face the long, dark Arctic winter alone in Minook Valley. This isolation, coupled with the constant threat of wolves and the mysterious "Bushman," plunged Norma into deep fear and loneliness, testing her faith and resilience.
Cabin collapse and bear raids. Their first cabin, with its sod roof, collapsed under the heavy winter snows while they were away in Fairbanks. Upon their return, they found it not only destroyed but also ransacked by the "Westbrooks' bear," which had pillaged their stored food and left its "calling card" of dung. This heartbreaking welcome home underscored the brutal power of nature and the constant struggle for survival.
The ultimate test. Les's return for Christmas during that first winter became a harrowing ordeal. Stranded in a blizzard, he battled hypothermia and delirium for days, almost perishing. Norma, fearing the worst, set out alone in the storm to find him, demonstrating immense courage. His eventual, snow-caked return, whispering "Honey, I'm home for Christmas," was a profound moment of relief and a testament to their bond.
6. Adapting to Self-Sufficiency and Frontier Life
We were learning to live off the land. Grayling and Dolly Varden from the creek, spruce hens, ptarmigan, snowshoe hares, an occasional duck, goose, beaver, or porcupine.
Living off the land. The Cobbs quickly learned to supplement their dwindling store-bought supplies by hunting and foraging. Les and Sid provided game like moose, bear, and small animals, while Norma and the girls gathered wild berries and edible mushrooms. This adaptation to nature's larder was crucial for survival, especially during the long, isolated winters.
Home schooling and chores. With no nearby schools, Norma took on the demanding role of home-schooling her five children, balancing academic lessons with practical homesteading skills. Daily life was a constant cycle of chores:
- Hauling water from frozen creeks
- Chopping and stacking firewood
- Feeding and caring for sled dogs
- Tanning furs and making clothing
- Maintaining the cabin and garden
Pioneer ingenuity. Sid, demonstrating remarkable ingenuity, trained Lady and Black to pull a sled for hauling water and wood, easing the family's burden. Norma learned to tan hides, make fur garments, and even perform basic medical procedures like stitching Cora's forehead. These skills, born of necessity, transformed them into true frontierspeople.
7. The Gold Rush Mentality and Mining Ventures
I make more gold dreaming of it nights than I’ll probably ever make otherwise.
The allure of gold. Despite Norma's skepticism, Les developed "gold fever," spending increasing amounts of time prospecting with his friend Pete Pasquali and old Harry Leonard. He believed that finding gold in Minook Valley could solve their financial woes and prevent him from having to leave for outside work. This pursuit became a significant part of their homesteading venture.
Placer mining challenges. Les invested in a suction dredge and sluice box, forming a partnership with two loggers to mine Hoosier Creek. The work was hard, cold, and dangerous, with miners spending hours in near-freezing water. Initial returns were meager, barely covering expenses, but Les's theory that gold lay beneath a "false bottom" kept his optimism alive.
A risky investment. A large gold nugget found by Les fueled his conviction, leading him to seek a $50,000 loan from a client friend, Mel Najarian, to scale up the mining operation. This substantial investment, secured on trust alone, put their entire homestead at risk. The success of the Hoosier Creek Mine became critical for their financial stability and the future of their dream.
8. Navigating Isolation and Human Nature
Cabin fever, more so than bears or blizzards, was the scourge of the North Country.
The dark side of isolation. The extreme isolation of Minook Valley, especially during winter, proved to be a severe test of human psychology. Norma witnessed the devastating effects of "cabin fever" on Andrew Farnsworth, their hired helper, who descended into paranoia and hostility. His behavior, from neglecting dogs to plotting against the Cobbs, highlighted the mental toll of prolonged solitude.
Betrayal and expulsion. Andrew's eventual attempt to claim their homestead through a loophole in their BLM contract forced Les to confront him. With Norma covering him with a rifle, Les expelled Andrew and his girlfriend from the valley, demonstrating the harsh realities of frontier justice. This incident, along with the earlier "wife swapping" among neighbors, underscored the complex and sometimes dark aspects of human nature in isolated environments.
The Bushman legend. The mysterious "Bushman" or Sasquatch, a hairy, man-like creature, added another layer of intrigue and fear to their lives. While initially terrifying, Norma eventually concluded that the creature, though unsettling, posed no direct threat, merely observing them. This acceptance of the unexplained became part of their adaptation to the wild, where not all mysteries needed scientific answers.
9. Mastering the Bush: Dogsleds, Planes, and Survival Skills
There are bold pilots, Les, and there are old pilots like me. But there ain’t never been any old, bold pilots in Alaska.
The power of dog teams. Dogsleds became essential for winter travel and chores, transforming the Cobbs from cabin-bound to mobile. Sid, with a passion for mushing, trained their growing team of huskies, dreaming of the Iditarod. He mastered the art of navigating the wilderness, facing dangers like breaking through ice and impalement by tree branches, becoming a "real Alaska hand."
Les, the bush pilot. Recognizing the need for faster transport for the mine, Les bought a Cessna 206. Despite having no formal license, he taught himself to fly, making him a true "bush pilot." His daring flights, including one where he flew Mel Najarian with the quip, "If you have any problems, you have your attorney with you," epitomized his audacious spirit and adaptability.
Survival lessons. The wilderness constantly taught them harsh lessons. Les's near-fatal encounter with a grizzly in a deadfall, where he and his friends narrowly escaped, and his rescue of a lost college student, highlighted the ever-present dangers. These experiences, though terrifying, forged their resilience and deepened their understanding of the unforgiving Alaskan environment.
10. The Ultimate Test: Loss, Resilience, and Proving the Dream
If we make it, we’ll owe most of it to Norma. She has done things out of the ordinary. She’s the one who held it together.
Tragedy strikes Sid's dream. A family trip to Colorado for Les's father's illness led to a devastating loss. Ken, left to care for the homestead, succumbed to cabin fever and neglected the dogs, resulting in the death of most of Sid's beloved team. This crushing blow destroyed Sid's Iditarod dreams, a poignant reminder of the fragility of life and aspirations in the bush.
Proving the claim. Despite the setbacks, the Cobbs persevered. They completed their homesteading requirements, building multiple cabins, sheds, dog runs, and an airstrip. In 1979, the BLM field examiner inspected their improvements, and though the official approval took time, Les acknowledged Norma's pivotal role: "She’s the one who held it together."
A legacy of freedom. The Cobbs' journey was a testament to their unwavering commitment to their dream. They faced floods, fires, bears, human conflict, and the relentless Arctic winter, yet they adapted, learned, and grew. Their story is a powerful narrative of resilience, self-reliance, and the enduring human spirit in pursuit of freedom on America's last true frontier.
