Tex-Mex Cookbook

1. Tex-Mex is a Cultural Identity, Not Just a Cuisine

To Texans, Tex-Mex food is a way of life.

Deeply woven fabric. Tex-Mex is more than just a meal; it's a cultural identity deeply ingrained in the fabric of Texas. It's a style of food that evokes familiarity, comfort, and a sense of home, enjoyed frequently by families and friends, whether at a neighborhood joint or cooked at home. It transcends mere sustenance, becoming a symbol of shared experiences and traditions.

Beyond health benefits. Tex-Mex isn't sought after for its nutritional value but for its ability to create a sense of belonging and nostalgia. It's the food you crave when you want to feel connected to your roots, a culinary embrace that transcends generations. This emotional connection elevates it beyond a simple dining choice.

Sharing the experience. The author's journey of bringing Tex-Mex to Atlanta highlights its universal appeal. It's a cuisine meant to be shared, reflecting the historical exchange between cultures that birthed it. This sharing fosters connections and allows others to experience the comfort and joy that Tex-Mex brings, regardless of their background.

2. Tex-Mex Evolved from Shared Roots and American Ingredients

But even though Texas would go on to join the United States of America in 1845, its identity—and therefore its foodways—had, by and large, already been forged by its deep roots in Mexico.

Forged by history. Tex-Mex emerged from the intertwined history of Texas and Mexico, evolving from shared roots in New Spain. Despite Texas's independence and subsequent union with the United States, its culinary identity remained deeply connected to its Mexican heritage. This fusion of cultures laid the foundation for a unique cuisine.

American influence. The cuisine evolved as cooks incorporated readily available American ingredients, distinguishing it from strictly Mexican fare. The introduction of flour tortillas, processed cheeses, and chili gravy marked a shift towards a distinct Texan style. These adaptations catered to local tastes and resources.

Diana Kennedy's impact. Diana Kennedy's critique of Tex-Mex as "un-Mexican" played a pivotal role in its evolution. This distinction allowed Tex-Mex to embrace its own identity, separate from traditional Mexican cuisine. It became a beloved style of food that Texans proudly embraced and shared throughout the country.

3. Iconic Tex-Mex Restaurants Paved the Way

Though there are many strong opinions held by many a Texan, the state has several inarguably iconic restaurants that deserve credit for bringing classic Tex-Mex dishes to fame in the first place.

Dish-specific preferences. Texans often designate favorite Tex-Mex restaurants based on singular dishes, such as queso, enchiladas, or fajitas. This reflects the diverse range of specialties and the high standards Texans hold for their Tex-Mex. Recommendations can vary widely depending on the specific craving.

Pioneering establishments. Several iconic restaurants deserve recognition for popularizing classic Tex-Mex dishes. These establishments, such as Casa Rio, Old Borunda Cafe, and Molina's Cantina, introduced and perfected dishes that became staples of the cuisine. Their contributions shaped the Tex-Mex landscape.

Notable contributions:

• Casa Rio: Traditional "Chili Queen" version of chile con carne.
• Old Borunda Cafe: Stacked enchiladas.
• Molina's Cantina: Cheese enchiladas using processed American cheese and chili gravy.
• El Fenix: "Guacamole salad".
• El Chico's Café: Pico de gallo.
• Original Mexican Restaurant: The combo plate.
• Matt’s El Rancho: Bob Armstrong Dip (queso compuesto).
• Ninfa’s on Navigation: Fajitas.
• Ray’s Drive Inn: Puffy taco.

4. Essential Tex-Mex Kitchen Tools and Pantry Staples

A kitchen stocked with basic utensils, pots, and pans is more than sufficient for Tex-Mex cooking.

Specialized tools. While basic kitchen equipment suffices, certain specialized tools enhance the Tex-Mex cooking experience. Items like a comal, molcajete, and tortilla press contribute to authentic preparation. These tools, though not strictly necessary, elevate the cuisine.

Pantry essentials. A well-stocked Tex-Mex pantry includes staples like rice, beans, chili powder, cumin, and various dried chiles. These ingredients form the foundation of many dishes, providing the characteristic flavors of the cuisine. Having these items readily available simplifies the cooking process.

Key ingredients:

• Rice: Long-grain white rice.
• Chili powder: Gebhardt brand.
• Cumin: Whole seeds, toasted and ground.
• Lard: Rendered pork fat.
• Masa harina: Finely ground hominy.
• Mexican chocolate: Spiced chocolate for hot beverages.
• Mexican oregano: Woodier and sweeter than other varieties.
• Processed cheese: Velveeta or Land O’Lakes Extra Melt.
• Rancho Gordo beans: Heirloom beans.

5. Breakfast is a Tex-Mex Affair

In Texas, we call them breakfast tacos, not breakfast burritos, which is a California thing.

Beyond breakfast tacos. While breakfast tacos are popular, classic Tex-Mex breakfast dishes include chilaquiles, migas, and huevos rancheros. These dishes, rooted in Mexican heritage, offer a more authentic breakfast experience. They represent the traditional flavors and preparations of Tex-Mex breakfast.

Migas and chilaquiles. Migas are a scramble of eggs, pico de gallo ingredients, and tortilla chip crumbs. Chilaquiles feature tomato salsa and chile paste paired with crunchy tortillas and a fried egg. These dishes showcase the versatility of Tex-Mex breakfast.

Breakfast staples:

• Migas: Eggs scrambled with tortilla chips and pico de gallo.
• Chilaquiles: Tortilla chips simmered in salsa and topped with a fried egg.
• Huevos Rancheros: Fried eggs served on tortillas with salsa.
• Breakfast Tacos: Flour tortillas filled with various combinations of eggs, bacon, potatoes, chorizo, etc.

6. Salsa is the Soul of Tex-Mex

Whether it’s served as a dip for tortilla chips or a condiment for tacos or used as a sauce for broiling enchiladas, salsa, in all its forms, is the spark that brings Tex-Mex cuisine alive.

More than just tomatoes. Salsa, meaning "sauce," encompasses a wide range of flavors and colors beyond the typical tomato-based variety. Ingredients like tomatillos, avocado, herbs, and various chiles contribute to unique and bold flavors. This diversity elevates salsa beyond a simple condiment.

Salsa varieties:

• Avocado Crema: Creamy avocado-based salsa.
• Pico de Gallo: Fresh chopped tomato, onion, jalapeño, and cilantro.
• Cowboy Gringo Table Hot Sauce: Vinegar-based chile sauce.
• Roasted Tomato Salsa: Charred tomatoes, onion, and serranos.
• Salsa Macha: Peanut oil-based chile paste.
• Salsa Verde: Tomatillo-based green salsa.
• Super-Spicy “Staff Only” Salsa: Dried chiles de árbol-based salsa.
• Tomatillo Crudo: Raw tomatillo and avocado salsa.

Salsa's versatility. Salsa serves as a dip, condiment, and sauce, enhancing various Tex-Mex dishes. Its versatility makes it an essential element in the cuisine, adding a spark of flavor to everything from tortilla chips to enchiladas. It is the central element in Tex-Mex cooking.

7. Tacos: More Than Just a Meal, It's a Canvas

There are three basic parts to a taco and I cover each in this chapter: the vessel, which could be a corn or flour tortilla or a crispy or puffy shell; the fillings, which could be just about anything (but we’ll stick to the most common ones); and the toppings, including salsas, lettuce, cheese, and more (we’ll primarily dive into salsas).

Beyond the crispy shell. While crispy beef tacos are a Tex-Mex classic, taco offerings have expanded to include flour or corn tortillas and fillings like carnitas, grilled fish, carne asada, and barbacoa. This evolution reflects the influence of Cali-Mex and authentic Mexican cuisine. The modern taco is a diverse culinary creation.

Taco components:

• Vessel: Corn or flour tortilla, crispy or puffy shell.
• Fillings: Beef picadillo, carnitas, carne asada, barbacoa, etc.
• Toppings: Salsas, lettuce, cheese, onion, cilantro, etc.

Taco guide. The book provides a guide to building the perfect taco, from tortilla and filling to salsa and other toppings. It encourages experimentation while highlighting classic combinations. This guide empowers readers to create their own taco masterpieces.

8. Enchiladas, Tamales, and More: The Heart of Tex-Mex Comfort Food

In Tex-Mex cuisine, enchiladas hold a revered status, and they share their fame with tamales, tostadas, nachos, and of course, tacos.

Revered status. Enchiladas, tamales, tostadas, and nachos hold a special place in Tex-Mex cuisine, offering comfort and familiarity. These dishes, found in nearly every Tex-Mex establishment, represent the heart of the cuisine. They are the go-to choices for many seeking a taste of home.

Enchilada variations. The book explores various enchilada styles, including cheese enchiladas with chili gravy, chicken enchiladas with mole, and enchiladas suizas with verde sauce and sour cream. These variations showcase the versatility of the enchilada.

Tamale traditions. Tamales, often made during family gatherings, are a labor of love. The book includes recipes for classic beef tamales and spicy pork tamales, highlighting the cultural significance of this dish. Tamales are a symbol of community and tradition.

9. Seafood Finds Its Place on the Tex-Mex Table

Seafood didn’t have a place on a Tex-Mex menu for a long time, since the fare evolved in the Rio Grande Valley and the northern and western parts of the state.

Coastal influence. The proximity of Texas to the Gulf of Mexico has led to the integration of seafood into Tex-Mex cuisine, particularly in coastal towns. Dishes like campechana, grilled oysters, and whole grilled red snapper showcase the fresh flavors of the sea. This integration adds a new dimension to Tex-Mex.

Seafood dishes:

• Campechana: Mexican seafood cocktail.
• Pozole with Shrimp & Pork: Brothy stew with hominy, shrimp, and pork.
• Camarones en Agua Chile: Shrimp cured in lime juice and chile water.
• West Texas–Style Stacked Shrimp Enchiladas: Enchiladas layered with shrimp.
• Grilled Oysters Divorciados: Grilled oysters with two different flavored butters.
• Whole Grilled Red Snapper with Cilantro Chimichurri: Whole grilled fish with a vibrant sauce.
• Grilled Shrimp Diablo: Spicy grilled shrimp.
• Ceviche: Fish cured in lime juice.
• Shrimp Tacos Dorados: Fried shrimp tacos.

Campechana's appeal. Campechana, a Mexican seafood cocktail, offers a spicy and refreshing alternative to traditional shrimp cocktails. Its vibrant flavors and diverse seafood make it a standout dish. It is a testament to the coastal influence on Tex-Mex.

10. Al Carbón: The Art of Tex-Mex Grilling

All the recipes in this chapter rely on a charcoal or wood-fired grill.

Mesquite magic. The use of mesquite wood is essential for authentic Tex-Mex grilling, imparting a distinctive smoky flavor. This hardwood grills hot and fast, enhancing the taste of meats and vegetables. Mesquite is the key to Tex-Mex grilling.

Grilling recipes:

• Beef Fajitas: Marinated skirt steak grilled to perfection.
• Carne a la Tampiqueña: Grilled tenderloin served with cheese enchiladas, guacamole, and refried beans.
• Carne Asada: Juicy cuts of grilled beef rolled in flour tortillas.
• Chicken Fajitas: Marinated chicken breasts grilled with vegetables.
• Chicken al Carbón: Whole chicken roasted over the fire.
• Al Pastor: Thin-sliced pork shoulder grilled and served with pineapple.
• Hamburguesa al Carbón: Grilled hamburger with chili gravy.

Beef fajita secrets. The key to great beef fajitas is using pineapple juice in the marinade and avoiding excessive lime juice. This tenderizes the meat without making it dry or gritty. It is a crucial tip for fajita success.

11. Sweet Endings: Tex-Mex Desserts

If we ever actually ordered from the dessert menu, it was for special occasions.

Beyond pralines. While pralines were a common treat, traditional Tex-Mex desserts included flan and sopaipillas. These simple yet satisfying sweets offered a perfect ending to a Tex-Mex meal. They represent the classic flavors of Tex-Mex desserts.

Dessert recipes:

• Classic Churros and Dulce de Leche Milkshake: Crispy churros with a caramel-y milkshake.
• Horchata Rice Pudding with Cherries and Almonds: Creamy rice pudding with horchata flavors.
• Pralines: Firm and brittle pecan candies.
• Tres Leches Cake with Toasted Coconut: Sponge cake soaked in three kinds of milk.
• Mexican Chocolate Flan: Flan with a hint of cinnamon.
• Sweet Plantains con Cajeta: Fried plantains with caramel sauce.
• Sopaipillas with Local Honey: Fried pastry dough drizzled with honey.
• Paletas: Mexican ice pops in various flavors.

Sopaipillas' appeal. Sopaipillas, light and airy fried pastries, offer a satisfyingly sweet and simple dessert. Their chewy texture and honey drizzle make them a perfect ending to a Tex-Mex meal. They are a classic Tex-Mex treat.

12. Beyond the Margarita: Tex-Mex Drinks

And that was when it hit me that the margarita has become so standard, so fundamental in Tex-Mex culture, that it’s about as obvious to the experience as chips and salsa.

Margarita's reign. The margarita is a fundamental part of Tex-Mex culture, as essential as chips and salsa. However, Tex-Mex offers a variety of other delicious drinks, including palomas, micheladas, and sangrias. These beverages provide diverse flavors and experiences.

Drink recipes:

• Classic Margarita on the Rocks: Tequila, Cointreau, lime juice, and simple syrup.
• The "El Jefe" Margarita: A twist on the classic margarita, served in a martini glass.
• Texas Star Paloma: Tequila, grapefruit juice, and elderflower liqueur.
• Sangria: Wine-based punch with fruit.
• Chelada or Michelada: Mexican beer cocktail with lime and spices.
• Bloody Maria: Tequila-based Bloody Mary.
• Vampire Weekend: Tequila, lime, and grapefruit soda.
• The Highwayman: Tequila, mezcal, and lime.

Paloma's rise. The Paloma, with its fresh grapefruit flavor, has gained popularity as a refreshing alternative to the margarita. Its bright and citrusy notes make it a perfect complement to Tex-Mex cuisine. It is a testament to the evolving Tex-Mex drink scene.

Last updated: March 30, 2025