True Style

1. True Style Transcends Fashion's Fleeting Trends

The goal of this book is to help you transcend the moment—to describe a set of items, styles, and traditions that are at once rooted in history and possessed of a timeless elegance that will see you through the next five seasons, or the next fifty.

Timeless Elegance. True style is not about chasing the latest fads but about cultivating a sense of timeless elegance that endures beyond fleeting trends. It's about understanding the history and principles of classic menswear and adapting them to one's individual taste. This approach emphasizes rational elegance, a constant dialogue between innovation, tradition, and personal expression.

The Great Renunciation. The book highlights the "Great Renunciation," a historical shift in the 19th century where men moved away from ornate, courtly attire towards simpler, more functional clothing. This shift, driven by the rise of the middle class and the Industrial Revolution, laid the foundation for modern menswear. Beau Brummell, a key figure, championed simplicity, utility, and cleanliness, setting a standard that still resonates today.

Individuality within Limits. While advocating for timelessness, the book also encourages individuality. It suggests finding personal expression within the tailored wardrobe, exploring pattern, texture, and color combinations while respecting tradition. The aim is to strike a balance between personal taste and historical context, allowing for a sense of personality without sacrificing elegance.

2. Accessories: Subtle Indicators of Personal Style

As Sherlock Holmes noted, the accessories that support the tailored wardrobe are of particular importance as personal and social indicators precisely because they tend to have no other real function, no utilitarian purpose, and are otherwise completely unnecessary except as symbols of status and clues to aspirations.

The Power of Details. Accessories, often overlooked, are powerful indicators of personal style and social status. They speak volumes about an individual's attention to detail and understanding of sartorial nuances. These subtle choices, lacking utilitarian purpose, become symbols of status and clues to aspirations.

Beyond Utilitarianism. Accessories like pocket squares, ties, and eyewear serve as personal and social indicators. They reveal whether someone's hosiery is properly positioned, if their tie is discreet or garish, and if their pocket square complements their outfit. These details, though seemingly minor, communicate volumes about a person's character and taste.

Clothes Never Shut Up. Clothes speak, and they lie less than words do. Nonverbal communication, based on visual cues, heavily relies on clothing. In today's fast-paced world, these visual perceptions become crucial for making quick judgments. Therefore, understanding the grammar of clothing is essential for conveying the desired message.

3. Ascots: A Versatile Alternative to Ties

There is really no need for all the confusion over the matter of the neck when the perfect solution has for so long been at hand...: the comfortable, jaunty, and ancient tradition of the scarf.

The Undervalued Ascot. The ascot, often overlooked, is a comfortable, jaunty, and ancient alternative to the necktie. It provides a solution for occasions when a tie is too formal, but a casual shirt is too informal. A scarf at the neck adds an air of casual elegance to various outfits, including cashmere cardigans, tweed jackets, and navy blazers.

Historical Significance. The history of neckwear is intertwined with the history of the scarf. From the cravats of Croatian mercenaries to the stocks worn by hunters, neckwear has evolved over centuries. The ascot, named after the prestigious Ascot race meeting, became a symbol of aristocratic dress.

Modern Applications. Despite its aristocratic associations, the ascot can be incorporated into modern wardrobes. It allows for variety in design, color, and style. Whether tied in a simple knot, secured with a tie clip, or threaded through a finger ring, the ascot offers endless possibilities for personal expression.

4. Boots: From Utilitarian Footwear to Fashion Statement

Once the purely utilitarian footgear of laborers and outdoorsmen, the boot exploded into the world of fashion around the middle of the last century, and its popularity only continues to grow.

The Rise of the Boot. Boots, once purely utilitarian, have become a significant fashion statement. From work boots to cowboy boots, various styles have gained popularity, reflecting an interest in craftsmanship, quality, and vintage styling. The choice depends on whether one seeks a fashion statement or practical footwear for outdoor activities.

Iconic Styles. Several boot styles have risen to prominence, including the black bull-hide motorcycle boot, the work boot, and the cowboy boot. These styles, often associated with rebels, laborers, or cowboys, have been embraced by designers and fashion enthusiasts alike.

Beyond Fashion. While many boots serve as fashion statements, others offer practical benefits. Desert boots, Maine duck boots, and various sports boots provide comfort, durability, and protection in different environments. These boots combine functionality with style, appealing to those who value both.

5. Business Attire: A Language of Professionalism

Our appearance is a language and, like other languages, should (1) be suitable to the audience, occasion, and purpose and (2) not send confusing messages.

The Importance of Appearance. In the corporate world, appearance is a career tool that communicates who you are and where you want to be. Dressing appropriately is essential for sending the right message and achieving professional goals. It's about understanding the language of clothing and using it effectively.

Appropriateness and Confidence. Appropriate dress frees individuals from anxieties and liabilities associated with sending negative or confusing messages. When dressed effectively, confidently, and comfortably, one is judged on talent, productivity, merit, skill, and loyalty. It's about being effective and doing a good job.

Key Considerations. Simplicity, quality, comfort, and fit are crucial aspects of business attire. Clothes should complement, not compete with, the individual. Avoiding cheap, fancy, shiny, or synthetic materials is generally advisable. Developing a clear sense of personal style and understanding the company's image are also important.

6. Craftsmanship: The Art of Making Something with Love

My father says to tell you that he cuts the cloth with love.

Beyond Mass Production. Craftsmanship represents a commitment to quality, skill, and passion in creating objects. It stands in contrast to modern mass production, where efficiency and quantity often overshadow artistry and care. The craftsman's atelier is a place where hands, hearts, and brains unite to produce something exceptional.

The Value of Artisans. Artisans deserve respect, admiration, and allegiance for their dedication to quality and their refusal to compromise on excellence. They connect their skilled physical labor to an ethics of work, honoring values that have been lost in today's world. Their emotional investment in their craft sets them apart.

The Secret Ingredient. Craftsmanship involves more than just technical skill; it requires love, passion, and a deep connection to the work. This emotional investment translates into a product that is made as perfectly as possible, reflecting the craftsman's pride and dedication. It's about making both the product and the customer better.

7. Denim: From Workwear to Rebel Icon to Fashion Staple

Jeans had gone from being country wear to being an urban uniform for postindustrial youth.

The Evolution of Denim. Denim, originally a sturdy twill cloth for workwear, has undergone a remarkable transformation. From its origins in the California Gold Rush to its adoption by rebels and fashion icons, denim has become a versatile and enduring staple in wardrobes worldwide.

Cultural Symbolism. Denim's journey from workwear to rebel icon is intertwined with cultural shifts. Cowboys, rebels, and counterculture movements have all embraced denim, imbuing it with different meanings. From Marlon Brando's rebellious sneer to Steve McQueen's rugged individualism, denim has symbolized various forms of defiance and nonconformity.

Modern Interpretations. Today, denim reflects the complexities of the modern world. From acid-washed to pre-worn, Japanese selvage to American-made Spandex-cotton blends, jeans come in countless variations. While the rebellious spirit may have faded, denim remains a versatile and enduring symbol of personal style.

8. The English Country House Look: Embracing Timeless Elegance

This is commonly called the undecorated look. Sometimes it is the result of happenstance; sometimes a subtle effort has been made to design a timeworn atmosphere.

Effortless Elegance. The English Country House Look (ECHL) embodies a timeless elegance that transcends fleeting trends. It's about creating an atmosphere of understated sophistication, as if layers of taste have been accumulated over generations. The key is to give the impression of never having prepared, cultivating a sense of effortless style.

Shabbiness over Newness. The ECHL favors shabbiness over newness, valuing the patina of age and the charm of imperfection. New is considered vulgar, while the mildly tatty is preferred. This approach emphasizes craftsmanship and the right proportions, creating a timeless look that bespeaks history and character.

Unpredictable Incongruity. Obvious coordination is to be avoided at all costs. Ties, socks, and pocket squares should slightly clash, and clothes from different genres or periods should be combined. This unpredictable incongruity creates an inspirational effect, showcasing individuality and a disregard for conventional rules.

9. Evening Dress: Respecting Tradition with Individual Flair

Formal dress is not the place for laissez-faire aesthetics.

The Enduring Tuxedo. Despite the casualization of modern society, the tuxedo remains a symbol of respect for tradition and elegance. Its basic form has endured for over a century, offering a timeless and dignified alternative to more colorful attire. The tuxedo represents a commitment to classic style and understated sophistication.

Historical Roots. The history of evening wear can be traced back to Renaissance Spain, where black clothing symbolized power and authority. The modern tuxedo evolved from the black broadcloth suit worn by the rising business class in the Victorian Age. The Edwardians refined the tuxedo, establishing it as the standard for formal occasions.

Modern Interpretations. While respecting tradition, modern interpretations of evening wear allow for individual flair. Trim silhouettes, lighter fabrics, and subtle variations in color and design offer opportunities for personal expression. The key is to strike a balance between tradition and individuality, showcasing a sense of style while adhering to the basic principles of formal dress.

10. Eyewear: A Window to Personal Style

Spectacles became popular in 1965.

The Spectacle Revolution. Spectacles, once relegated to the realm of necessity, have become a powerful fashion accessory. The turning point occurred in 1965 when film stars like Michael Caine embraced eyewear as a symbol of coolness and sophistication. Since then, spectacles have evolved into a diverse and expressive element of personal style.

Beyond Functionality. Eyewear offers a unique opportunity to enhance one's visual message. From playful to intelligent, serious to creative, spectacles can convey a range of personalities and attitudes. They can be used to enhance the face, create a contemplative look, or simply add a touch of individuality.

Finding the Right Frames. Whether opting for retro-look granny glasses or sleek, high-tech frames, the key is to find eyewear that complements one's personal style and facial features. The goal is to select frames that don't call attention to themselves but rather enhance the overall image. Spectacles should be a subtle yet impactful expression of self.

11. Fragrances: An Olfactory Expression of Self

People who understand quality buy the best not to spend a fortune but to save one.

The Power of Scent. Fragrances are an integral part of male presentation, reflecting personal preference and business image. Choosing the right scent is essential for conveying the desired message, whether it's freshness, sophistication, or ruggedness. A well-chosen fragrance can enhance one's presence and leave a lasting impression.

Understanding Fragrance Types. From citrus to spice, leather to woody, fragrances come in a variety of types, each with its own distinct character. Understanding these categories allows men to select scents that are appropriate for different occasions, moods, and seasons. The goal is to create an olfactory wardrobe that reflects one's personality and style.

Subtlety and Sophistication. In a business environment, a man should smell clean and fresh, not overpowering. Successful men understand that the impression of cleanliness, with a hint of sophistication, is all that's needed. Good fragrance doesn't overpower; it complements.

12. Grooming: The Art of Presenting Your Best Self

It’s the area above the shoulders that calls for the most attentive grooming: the neck, face, and head.

The Importance of Attentive Grooming. The area above the shoulders—neck, face, and head—requires the most attentive grooming. This includes shaving, hair styling, skincare, and other practices that enhance one's appearance. Consulting with professionals like barbers, stylists, and dermatologists is essential for achieving optimal results.

Tools and Techniques. Grooming entails using the right tools and techniques. From razors and clippers to nail scissors and files, having the appropriate implements is crucial for maintaining a well-groomed appearance. Understanding how to use these tools effectively is equally important.

Beyond the Basics. While basic grooming practices are essential, personal style also plays a role. Facial hair, for example, can be a matter of personal choice and professional decorum. Whether clean-shaven or sporting a beard, the key is to maintain a well-groomed and presentable appearance.

Last updated: April 13, 2025