Fibershed

1. The hidden cost of our clothes: Environmental and social impacts

"We buy more clothes than ever before [and] we wear them fewer times."

Fast fashion's toll. The textile industry consumes vast amounts of water, releases toxic pollutants, and relies heavily on forced labor. In 2015, the average person bought 60% more garments than in 2000, keeping them for half as long. This "fast fashion" model has led to increased waste, with only 15% of used clothing in the US being recycled.

Health and environmental consequences. The industry uses thousands of synthetic compounds, many linked to cancer and other diseases. These chemicals pollute waterways and persist in the environment. Cotton farming, which accounts for 30% of all textile fibers, often relies on genetically modified crops and heavy pesticide use. The production of synthetic fibers like polyester contributes significantly to greenhouse gas emissions.

Labor issues. The textile industry employs millions in developing countries, often under poor working conditions. Child labor remains a problem in cotton farming, and tragedies like the Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh highlight the dangers faced by garment workers.

2. Fibershed movement: Reconnecting with local textile production

"Fibershed systems are designed so that agriculture and its supply chains can move from being net emitters of greenhouse gases to net reducers."

Local fiber economies. The Fibershed movement aims to develop regional textile communities that support soil-to-soil processes in fiber production. This approach emphasizes using local materials, labor, and dyes within a defined geographic area, typically within a 150-mile radius.

Benefits of localization. By reconnecting consumers with the source of their clothing, Fibershed promotes:

• Transparency in the supply chain
• Support for local farmers and artisans
• Reduced transportation emissions
• Preservation of traditional textile skills
• Increased biodiversity through diverse fiber crops

Community building. The movement fosters collaboration between farmers, designers, mill owners, and consumers, creating a more resilient and sustainable local economy.

3. Soil-to-soil clothing: Harnessing the power of the carbon cycle

"Soil represents the largest carbon sink that we have access to and in many cases directly manage via agriculture."

Carbon farming. Soil-to-soil systems focus on regenerative agriculture practices that sequester carbon in the soil. This approach can transform fiber production from a net emitter of greenhouse gases to a net reducer, helping to mitigate climate change.

Holistic benefits. Carbon farming practices offer multiple advantages:

• Increased soil water-holding capacity
• Enhanced drought resistance
• Improved soil fertility
• Reduced need for synthetic inputs
• Increased biodiversity

Economic potential. By implementing carbon farming practices, producers can potentially access new revenue streams through carbon credits or premium pricing for climate-beneficial fibers.

4. Synthetic biology: A false solution to sustainable textiles

"The risks involved in reengineering [microbes] could prove to be more harmful to human and planetary health than any other genetically modified organism (GMO) currently on the market."

Biotech promises and pitfalls. Synthetic biology companies claim to offer sustainable alternatives to traditional textiles, such as lab-grown "spider silk." However, these technologies often rely on industrial monocultures for feedstocks and may pose unforeseen risks to ecosystems and human health.

Regulatory gaps. Current regulations are ill-equipped to address the potential consequences of synthetic biology. The long-term effects of releasing genetically engineered organisms into the environment are largely unknown.

Alternative focus. Instead of pursuing high-risk technological fixes, efforts should be directed towards:

• Improving existing natural fiber production systems
• Developing regional processing infrastructure
• Supporting traditional and sustainable textile practices

5. Plant-based fibers: Reviving traditional and sustainable materials

"Cotton accounts for approximately 30 percent of the fibers we wear today, and is by far the most popular plant fiber utilized by clothing brands."

Diverse fiber options. While cotton dominates the plant-based fiber market, there are many other sustainable options:

• Flax (linen)
• Hemp
• Nettle
• Milkweed

Cotton alternatives. Organic and heritage cotton varieties offer more sustainable options than conventional cotton. Color-grown cotton, for example, requires less water and fewer chemical inputs.

Integrated systems. Plant-based fibers can be part of regenerative agricultural systems that:

• Improve soil health
• Enhance biodiversity
• Provide additional income streams for farmers
• Reduce reliance on synthetic materials

6. Animal fibers and mills: Key components of regional textile systems

"Processing mills are the most significant infrastructure investment our communities need in order to decentralize the textile industry and reinvigorate regional economies."

Diverse animal fibers. Wool from sheep is the most common animal fiber, but others include:

• Alpaca
• Mohair (from Angora goats)
• Cashmere
• Silk

Mill infrastructure. The lack of local processing facilities is a major obstacle for many fibersheds. Investing in regional mills is crucial for:

• Keeping value-added processes within communities
• Reducing transportation costs and emissions
• Enabling the production of locally-sourced textiles

Economic opportunities. Developing regional textile systems can create jobs and support rural economies, reversing the trend of textile manufacturing offshoring.

7. Expanding the fibershed model: Global grassroots initiatives

"We are excited to see a growing number of citizens focused wholeheartedly on the development of regional textile cultures and economies."

Global movement. The Fibershed concept has spread to over 40 locations worldwide, including:

• United States
• Canada
• United Kingdom
• Australia

Diverse approaches. Each fibershed adapts the model to its local context, focusing on:

• Available fibers and dyes
• Traditional textile skills
• Local economic needs
• Environmental challenges

Knowledge sharing. The Fibershed Affiliate Program facilitates collaboration and information exchange between regional groups, fostering a global network of sustainable textile communities.

8. A future based on truth: Transforming the textile industry

"The production processes that clothe the vast majority of humans today are backed by global investment capital that has been working for centuries to centralize and privatize the genetics and the machinery that undergirds fiber-dye farming and manufacturing."

Systemic change. Transforming the textile industry requires addressing:

• Economic incentives that favor unsustainable practices
• Lack of transparency in supply chains
• Undervaluation of ecological and social costs

Investment needed. To support sustainable regional textile systems, investment is required in:

• Education and training programs
• Infrastructure development
• Market creation for sustainable fibers

Cultural shift. Ultimately, creating a truly sustainable textile industry requires a fundamental change in how we value clothing and its production, moving away from disposable fashion towards durable, locally-produced garments that honor both people and planet.

Last updated: September 12, 2024