The Lost Art of Dress

1. The Dress Doctors: Pioneering women who shaped American style

"The Dress Doctors took traditional ideas about beauty and art and used them to help American women to flourish in the twentieth century, an era they viewed as one of unprecedented opportunity for their sex."

Who were the Dress Doctors? They were a group of influential women who worked as teachers, writers, retailers, and designers in the early to mid-20th century. These women, including figures like Mary Brooks Picken and the Goldstein sisters, offered advice on clothing and style through classrooms, radio broadcasts, women's clubs, and magazines.

Their impact on American fashion: The Dress Doctors aimed to democratize style, making it accessible to all women regardless of social class or economic status. They taught that knowledge, not money, was the key to beauty in dress. Their teachings reached millions of women through home economics classes, 4-H clothing clubs, and popular publications.

Core principles: The Dress Doctors emphasized:

• The application of art principles to clothing
• Dressing appropriately for different occasions
• Thrift and resourcefulness in creating a wardrobe
• The importance of self-expression through clothing

2. Art principles in dress: Harmony, rhythm, balance, proportion, and emphasis

"The Dress Doctors drew upon the work of two important American art teachers, Arthur Wesley Dow and Denman Waldo Ross."

The Five Art Principles: The Dress Doctors adapted ideas from art education to create a framework for understanding and creating beautiful clothing:

1. Harmony: Consistency in design elements
2. Rhythm: Repetition and movement in design
3. Balance: Distribution of visual weight
4. Proportion: Relationship between parts of a design
5. Emphasis: Focal point of a design

Application to clothing: These principles were used to guide women in choosing and creating garments that were both aesthetically pleasing and flattering. For example, the principle of harmony taught women to consider how different elements of an outfit worked together, while emphasis helped them draw attention to their best features.

Color theory: The Dress Doctors also incorporated sophisticated color theory into their teachings, helping women understand how to use color effectively in their wardrobes. They taught about color harmonies, the psychological effects of different colors, and how to choose colors that flattered different skin tones and hair colors.

3. Dressing for occasions: The six key scenarios in a woman's life

"The Dress Doctors identified Six Occasions for Dress—school, business, housework, sport, afternoons, and evenings—and explained which designs and fabrics were best suited for each."

The Six Occasions:

1. School: Simple, semi-tailored styles that allowed for movement and focus on studies
2. Business: Sober colors and restrained lines for a professional appearance
3. Housework: Practical, washable fabrics in cheerful colors
4. Sport: Comfortable, appropriate attire for various athletic activities
5. Afternoons: Slightly dressier styles for social events and errands
6. Evenings: More elaborate and decorative designs for formal occasions

Importance of occasion-appropriate dress: The Dress Doctors taught that dressing appropriately for each occasion was not just about looking good, but about being efficient, respectful, and prepared for the task at hand. They believed that clothing should enhance, not hinder, a woman's ability to participate fully in all aspects of life.

Evolution of dress codes: The book traces how these dress codes evolved over time, particularly in response to social changes like women entering the workforce in greater numbers and the rise of suburban living.

4. Thrift in fashion: Creating a beautiful wardrobe on a budget

"The Dress Doctors wanted to empower young women by giving them the financial tools they needed to survive as businesswomen or home women."

Budgeting and planning: The Dress Doctors taught women to plan their wardrobes carefully, considering their lifestyle needs and budget constraints. They encouraged women to invest in quality pieces that could be worn for multiple occasions and to learn skills like sewing to extend their clothing budget.

Resourcefulness in fashion:

• Repurposing and remaking garments
• Using inexpensive materials creatively (e.g., feed sacks for dresses during the Great Depression)
• Mastering sewing and alteration skills

Quality over quantity: The Dress Doctors advocated for owning fewer, higher-quality garments rather than a large wardrobe of cheap, disposable clothing. They taught women how to care for their clothes to extend their lifespan and maintain their appearance.

5. The revolt against traditional fashion in the 1960s

"By the end of the 1960s, the Five Art Principles had become hopelessly square, and dressing for the occasion a plot by the establishment to stifle creativity."

Cultural shifts: The 1960s saw a dramatic change in fashion norms, driven by:

• The rise of youth culture and the Baby Boomer generation
• Civil rights and feminist movements challenging traditional roles
• New designers focusing on young, casual styles

Rejection of traditional dress codes: Young people began to reject the formal dress codes of previous generations, opting for more casual and experimental styles. This included the popularization of miniskirts, unisex clothing, and bold, psychedelic prints.

Impact on the Dress Doctors: The cultural revolution of the 1960s undermined many of the principles taught by the Dress Doctors. Their teachings began to be seen as outdated and restrictive, leading to a decline in their influence. However, the book argues that many valuable lessons were lost in this rejection of traditional fashion wisdom.

6. Age and size in fashion: Challenging beauty standards

"The Dress Doctors insisted on modest clothing for girls, although they noticed that definitions of modesty evolved over time."

Evolving standards of beauty: The book traces how ideals of beauty and appropriate dress for different ages changed over the 20th century. It highlights how the Dress Doctors advocated for age-appropriate clothing that celebrated the beauty of women at all stages of life.

Body image and fashion:

• The shift towards increasingly thin beauty ideals
• The rise of "vanity sizing" in clothing
• The impact of these changes on women's self-image and clothing choices

Advice for different life stages: The Dress Doctors offered specific guidance for dressing at different ages, from young girls to mature women. They emphasized the importance of dressing in a way that was both flattering and appropriate for one's age and lifestyle.

7. The lasting legacy of the Dress Doctors

"The art of dress did not disappear entirely."

Resurgence of interest: While the influence of the Dress Doctors waned in the latter part of the 20th century, there has been a renewed interest in their teachings in recent years. This includes:

• A revival of interest in vintage fashion and traditional dressmaking skills
• Growing awareness of the environmental and ethical issues in fast fashion
• Appreciation for the timeless principles of good design in clothing

Enduring wisdom: Many of the core principles taught by the Dress Doctors remain relevant today, including:

• The importance of understanding one's body and personal style
• The value of quality over quantity in clothing
• The role of clothing in self-expression and confidence

Modern applications: The book suggests ways in which the teachings of the Dress Doctors can be applied to contemporary fashion, helping readers navigate the complexities of personal style in the 21st century.

Last updated: November 23, 2024