Tomatoland

1. The Modern Tomato Industry Prioritizes Appearance Over Taste and Nutrition

A ten-foot drop followed by a sixty-mile-per-hour impact with pavement is no big deal to a modern, agribusiness tomato.

Appearance over substance. The Florida tomato industry focuses on producing tomatoes that are visually appealing, with a perfectly round shape and uniform red color, often at the expense of flavor and nutritional value. This is driven by consumer demand for aesthetically pleasing produce, regardless of taste.

Nutritional decline. Modern industrial tomatoes have significantly lower levels of essential nutrients like Vitamin C, thiamin, niacin, and calcium compared to tomatoes from the 1960s. This decline is a consequence of breeding for traits that enhance durability and appearance rather than nutritional content.

Consumer dissatisfaction. Despite the industry's efforts to produce visually appealing tomatoes, consumers consistently rank fresh tomatoes low in satisfaction surveys. This indicates a disconnect between what the industry provides and what consumers truly desire: flavorful and nutritious produce.

2. Florida's Climate Presents Unique Challenges to Tomato Cultivation

If it were left up to the laws of botany and nature, Florida would be one of the last places in the world where tomatoes grow.

Unnatural environment. Florida's humid climate and sandy soil are inherently unsuitable for tomato cultivation, as tomatoes thrive in dry, sunny conditions with nutrient-rich soil. This necessitates intensive intervention to create an artificial environment for tomato growth.

Pest and disease pressures. The warm, humid climate fosters the proliferation of pests, fungi, and bacteria that attack tomato plants, requiring heavy use of pesticides and fungicides. This creates a cycle of chemical dependency and potential harm to workers and the environment.

Resource intensity. Florida's sandy soil lacks essential nutrients, requiring growers to rely on chemical fertilizers. The lack of water retention also necessitates extensive irrigation systems, further straining resources and potentially polluting waterways.

3. Chemical Warfare Is Waged to Grow Tomatoes in Florida

To get a successful crop, they pump the soil full of chemical fertilizers and can blast the plants with more than one hundred different herbicides and pesticides, including some of the most toxic in agribusiness’s arsenal.

Extensive chemical use. Florida tomato growers employ a vast array of chemical fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides to combat the challenges posed by the state's climate and soil. This intensive chemical use raises concerns about environmental and human health.

Toxic chemicals. Many of the chemicals used in Florida tomato production are classified as "Bad Actors" by the Pesticide Action Network, meaning they are known carcinogens, neurotoxins, endocrine disruptors, or reproductive toxins. Workers are exposed to these chemicals on a daily basis.

Pesticide residues. Despite regulations, residues of numerous pesticides are frequently found on tomatoes destined for supermarket produce sections. While these residues are generally below levels considered harmful, the long-term effects of exposure to multiple pesticides are not fully understood.

4. Farmworkers Face Hazardous Conditions and Lack of Protection

Workers are exposed to these chemicals on a daily basis. The toll includes eye and respiratory ailments, exposure to known carcinogens, and babies born with horrendous birth defects.

Pesticide exposure. Farmworkers are routinely exposed to a cocktail of toxic chemicals while planting, tending, and harvesting tomatoes. This exposure can lead to a range of health problems, including eye and respiratory ailments, skin rashes, and potential long-term effects like cancer and birth defects.

Lack of enforcement. Florida has a poor record of enforcing pesticide regulations and protecting farmworkers from chemical exposure. The state has relatively few inspectors and rarely levies penalties against farms that violate safety standards.

Limited reporting. Many farmworkers do not report pesticide exposure due to fear of retaliation, lack of access to medical care, and ignorance about the symptoms of poisoning. This makes it difficult to accurately assess the extent of the problem and hold growers accountable.

5. Modern-Day Slavery Persists in Florida's Tomato Fields

In the chilling words of Douglas Molloy, chief assistant United States attorney in Fort Myers, South Florida’s tomato fields are “ground zero for modern-day slavery.”

Forced labor. Despite being outlawed, slavery continues to exist in Florida's tomato fields. Workers are often lured with false promises of high wages and then trapped in debt bondage, forced to work against their will under threat of violence.

Brutal conditions. Slaves in Florida's tomato fields endure horrific conditions, including physical abuse, confinement, and denial of basic necessities like food, water, and medical care. Some are even chained or locked in trucks at night.

Systemic problem. While law enforcement has successfully prosecuted several slavery cases, the problem is far from eradicated. The economic pressures of the tomato industry, combined with the vulnerability of undocumented workers, create an environment ripe for exploitation.

6. The Coalition of Immokalee Workers Fights for Fair Treatment

After months of crisscrossing Florida, speaking with growers, trade association executives, owners of tomato-packing companies, lawyers, federal prosecutors, county sheriffs, university horticulturalists, plant breeders, farmworker advocates, soup kitchen managers, field workers, field crew leaders, fair housing advocates, one U. S. senator, and one Mexican peasant who came here seeking a better life for his family only to be held for two years as a slave, I began to see that the Florida tomato industry constitutes a parallel world unto itself, a place where many of the assumptions I had taken for granted about living in the United States are turned on their heads.

Grassroots activism. The Coalition of Immokalee Workers (CIW) is a farmworker-led organization that has been instrumental in exposing labor abuses and advocating for fair treatment in Florida's tomato fields. The CIW uses a combination of grassroots organizing, public education, and strategic partnerships to pressure growers and corporations to improve working conditions.

Anti-slavery efforts. The CIW has played a key role in uncovering and prosecuting numerous slavery cases in Florida. The organization provides support to victims, educates workers about their rights, and works with law enforcement to bring traffickers to justice.

Campaign for Fair Food. The CIW's signature initiative, the Campaign for Fair Food, seeks to improve wages and working conditions by persuading major food retailers to pay a penny-per-pound premium for tomatoes and commit to sourcing from growers who adhere to a strict code of conduct.

7. Economic Pressures Perpetuate Labor Abuses

Those cheap tomatoes that fill produce sections 365 days a year, year in and year out, come at a tremendous human cost.

Downward pressure on wages. The Florida tomato industry operates on thin margins, and growers face intense competition from Mexico and other regions. This puts constant downward pressure on wages, creating an incentive to exploit workers.

Exemptions from labor laws. Farmworkers are often excluded from basic labor protections, such as minimum wage laws, overtime pay, and the right to unionize. This lack of legal protection makes them more vulnerable to abuse.

Debt bondage. Many farmworkers are trapped in debt bondage to crew bosses, who charge exorbitant fees for transportation, housing, and food. This makes it difficult for workers to leave their jobs, even if they are being mistreated.

8. The Campaign for Fair Food Seeks Systemic Change

Insist on eating food that meets our standards only, not the standards set by corporate agriculture.

Corporate accountability. The Campaign for Fair Food targets major food retailers, such as fast food chains and supermarkets, to pressure them to take responsibility for labor conditions in their supply chains. By leveraging their purchasing power, these corporations can incentivize growers to improve wages and working conditions.

Worker participation. The Fair Food Code of Conduct is developed in consultation with farmworkers and includes provisions for worker education, monitoring, and enforcement. This ensures that workers have a voice in shaping the standards that govern their workplaces.

Market-based solution. The penny-per-pound premium provides a direct economic incentive for growers to comply with the Fair Food Code of Conduct. This creates a market-based system that rewards responsible labor practices and penalizes those who exploit workers.

9. Breeders are Working to Restore Flavor and Nutrition

It’s a world we’ve all made, and one we can fix. Welcome to Tomatoland.

Focus on taste and nutrition. Some plant breeders are working to develop tomato varieties that prioritize flavor and nutritional value over appearance and durability. This involves rediscovering lost genes and crossbreeding heirloom varieties with modern hybrids.

Traditional breeding techniques. These breeders often rely on traditional breeding techniques, rather than genetic modification, to create new varieties. This appeals to consumers who are wary of genetically modified foods.

Consumer demand. The success of varieties like Tasti-Lee demonstrates that consumers are willing to pay a premium for tomatoes that taste good. This creates a market opportunity for growers who are willing to prioritize flavor and nutrition.

10. Sustainable Farming Practices Offer a Path Forward

Organic, local, seasonal, fresh, sustainable, fair trade—the words have become platitudes that skeptics associate with foodie elitists who can afford to shop at natural food stores and have kitchens that boast $5,000 ranges and larders filled with several varieties of vinegar, extra-virgin olive oil, and “natural” sea salt.

Reducing chemical dependency. Organic farming practices, such as crop rotation, cover cropping, and the use of natural pest control methods, can reduce the reliance on chemical fertilizers and pesticides. This benefits both the environment and human health.

Supporting local economies. Buying locally grown tomatoes supports small farmers and strengthens regional food systems. This can create jobs, reduce transportation costs, and provide consumers with access to fresher, more flavorful produce.

Fair labor practices. Sustainable farming practices should also include fair labor standards, such as paying living wages, providing safe working conditions, and respecting workers' rights. This ensures that the people who grow our food are treated with dignity and respect.

Last updated: February 28, 2025